Post on 10-Apr-2018
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INTRODUCTION
Weaving is an ancient art of making cloth and
other fabrics and Indians have been experts at
weaving from time immemorial. Weaving in
India has been a hobby for centuries and has
now evolved into a complete industry. The
Indian woven fabrics are famous worldwide and
it is also one of the largest cottage industries inthe country.
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BROCADE
The art of brocade weaving is quite popular in India,
since the old times.
It has been creating wonders and getting huge acclaim
from world over for their distinctive style. The basic cloth required for this form is silk as it is quite
durable and stylish. Some of the weavers also make use
of a mix of silk and cotton.
With a variety of silk and cotton fabric available in India,one can get to see uniqueness in every piece.
It is usually done in Varanasi in the state of Uttar
Pradesh
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WEAVING TECHNIQUE
Brocade is typically woven on a draw loom. It is
a supplementary weft technique, that is, the
ornamental brocading is produced by a
supplementary, non-structural, weft in addition
to the standard weft that holds
the warp threads together. The purpose of this
is to give the appearance that the weaveactually was embroidered on
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BALUCHARI
The art ofBaluchari weaving came from Baluchar, a
place near Murshidabad.
Its best feature is that of using human brocade figures
for decorating pallu and borders. What makes this weaving style more elegant is the use
of fine quality silk and silver zari work.
Generally, in this pattern, the ground colors are beige,
red, blue and pink with contrast colored borders. The entire masterpiece ofBaluchari work enables the
wearer to adorn a touch of grace and stands out of
crown for being exclusive.
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WEAVING TECHNIQUE
Various mythological characters like Ram, Sita, Radha,and Krishna are intricately portrayed on it. Baluchari iswoven with two varieties of silk threads on French madeJacquard type looms One of the silk types is set
vertically and the other is set horizontally in the speciallooms. To make a single sari it takes a lot of effort forthe artisans. Before fixing the threads on the loom thesilk threads are washed in boiling water. On the next dayit is coloured by dipping in hot colours. Then the threads
are rolled on the spinning wheels. After toiling for nearlyfive to six months we get those beautiful exquisiteBaluchari saris.
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CHANDERI
Chanderi is a town near to Gwalior, which is
famous for hand woven silk saris.
This style of weaving is considered to beextremely fine with intricately woven borders.
Saris designed from this art were exclusively
known for their gossamer shimmer and
delicacy.
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WEAVING TECHNIQUE
Chanderi is produced using three raw
materials: cotton, silk thread, and zari. The
colours ofChanderi silk come from both natural
as well as chemical processes. Traditional
looms are used as the primary means of
production. These include pit looms, dobby,
and jacquard looms. The hand-woven silk has alight, sheer quality that sets it apart from
textiles produced en masse in factories
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IKKAT- SAMBALPURI
Ikat is quite well-known for classy thread work,along with tie and dye process.
Famous in Gujarat, Andhra Pradesh and Orissa,
this weaving style is known by various names indifferent towns. In Orissa it is known as theSambalpuri ikkat.
It is the intricacy and beauty of
the Ikat that has made it popular worldwide and afavorite among manypeople.
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WEAVING TECHNIQUE
Ikat, or Ikkat, is the method ofweavingthat usesa resist dyeingprocess similar to tie-dye on eitherthe warp or weft fibres.
The dye is applied prior to the threads being wovento create the final fabric pattern or design.
Double Ikat is where both warp and the weft areresist-dyed prior to stringing on the loom.
Traditionally, and still commonly, a back-strap loomis used, though any variant or modern loom maybe used
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AMAVAR
The art of Jamawar was brought to Kashmir by Persians,centuries ago. But, it grew and reached its zenith in theMughal period.
From that time to now, the art of Jamawar reflects a
perfect blend of beauty, warmth and luxury. What madethis style exclusive is the design based on flora andfauna.
In fact, the most demanding patterns have been jaldarand buti work.
Jamawar style of weaving is quite famous for a mix ofcreativity blended with traditionalism. Its beauty lies inthe stylishness of intricate designs.
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WEAVING TECHNIQUE
Jama means robe and war is yard. The base of thejamawar is mostly resham, with perhaps an addition of alittle polyester. The brocaded parts are woven in similarthreads of silk and polyester. Most of the designs seen
today are floral, with the kairy (i.e. the paisley) as thepredominant motif.
Today, the best jamavar is woven in Pakistan. This fabricis widely used in that country for bridal and specialoccasion outfits. The texture and weave of patterns is
such that the fabric often gets caught when rubbedagainst rough surfaces (metallic embroidery, jewelleryetc.) it must therefore be handled delicately when worn
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AMDHANI
The art of weaving Jamdani started years and
years ago that finds mention in Kautilyas
Arthashastra.
Jamdani is a patterned piece of muslin
cloth used for embroidery during weaving process.
It, usually, contains geometrical and floral patterns
dyed in a light shade. After this, the designs aredrawn on it using colors like maroon, white, green,
black, silver and golden color.
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WEAVING TECHNIQUE
Jamdani is a hand loom woven fabric made of cotton,
which historically was referred to as muslin. The
Jamdani weaving tradition is ofBengali origin. It is oneof the most time and labour intensive forms of weaving
hand loom weaving.
Whether figured or flowered, Jamdani is a woven fabricin cotton, and it is undoubtedly one of the varieties of
the finest muslin. It has been spoken of as the most
artistic textile of the Bangladeshi weaver. Traditionallywoven around Dhaka and created on the loom brocade,Jamdani is fabulously rich in motifs.
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KOTA DORIA
The style of Kota Doria started 200 years ago,when some weavers from Kaithun (near Kota,Rajasthan) used to weave coarse plain fabric.
With unique patterns and motifs, this designform has enabled people to showcase culture
in the best possible form.
The uniqueness of this art lies in its stylishweaving with colorful threads and intricatemotifs.
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WEAVING TECHNIQUE
Cotton or cotton-silk yarn of different thickness isused in the weaving. The silk gives the necessarytransparency and cotton provides strength to thefabric. Everything is done in the age old manner
right from the setting of the patterns to setting ofthe loom.
The traditional Kota Doria is white in colour but
once dyed the fabric come out in bright hues likepomegranate red, purple, Bordeaux red, turquoise,lapis, turmeric yellow and saffron.
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MAHESWARI
The Maheshwari sari is quite famous for its sheerbeauty and gossamer thin blend of silk and cottonyarn.
This weaving art is carried out either on a purecotton fabric, or a mix of silk and cotton.
It is characterized by geometrical motifs, such assmall checks or stripes made on the cloth with
dark colored border.
It belongs to Maheshwar a small town in MadhyaPradesh
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WEAVING TECHNIQUE
The Maheshwari sari is made of either pure cotton i.e.,cotton wefts on cotton warps, or is mixed ie fine silkwarps and cotton weft. They are characterized by anarrow coloured border embellished with gold (zari) and
small checks, narrow stripes, or solid colour in the body Maheshwari saris were traditionally woven by Hindu
weavers, mostly women from the local Marucommunity.
Subtle colours and textures are created by using
different shades in the warp and weft. Gold thread orzari is also used in Maheshwari saris to weave elegantmotifs on the body, border and pallu.
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PAITHANI
This weave belongs to the state of
Maharashtra.
Paithani art is known for fine weaving ofembroidery and complex bleaching/ dyeing of
the material.
It is, in fact, a merger of ethnicity and
classicism.
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WEAVING TECHNIQUE
Paithani saris are silks in which there is no extra weft forming figures. The figuringweave was obtained by a plain tapestry technique.
There are three techniques of weaving;
Split tapestry weave - the simplest weave where two weft threads are woven up toadjacent warp threads and then reversed. The warp threads are then cut and retiedto a different colour.
Interlocking method - two wefts are interlocked with each other where the colourchange is required. The figuring weft is made of a number of coloured threads,weaving plain with warp threads and interlocked on either side with the grounds weftthreads are invariably gold threads which interlock with the figure weft threads, thusforming the figure. This system of interlocking weaves, known as kadiyal, is done sothat there are no extra floats on the back of the motif thus making the design nearlyreversible.
Dobe-tailing method - two threads go around the same warp, one above the other,creating a dobe-tailing or tooth-comb effect.
Weaving could take between 18 to 24 months, depending upon the complexity of thedesign.
Real Paithani is hand woven pure silk and gold/silver
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POCHAMPALLI
Pochampalli is a place in Andhra Pradesh, which is
world famous as Silk City.
Almost 100 villages in this region are involved in
weaving Pochampalli saris.
What makes them exclusive is a perfect mix of
history, tradition, culture and modernity. With the
use of traditional looms, Pochampalli saris are woven intrinsically
beautiful.
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WEAVING TECHNIQUE
Pochampalli is the place where threads and colours findtheir way into the hands of skilful weavers and meander intothe market as beautiful saris and dress material is the mosttypical weaving village in Nalgonda District of AndhraPradesh.
Basking under the glory on par with the weaves of otherplaces(Such as Kanchi, Dharmavaram, Gadwal, Venkatagirietc.), Pochampally weave is popularly known as ikkat or tieand dye weave. The uniqueness lies in the transfer of designand colouring onto warp and weft threads first and then
weave them together. The fabric is cotton, silk and sico - amix of silk and cotton. Increasingly, the colours themselvesare from natural sources and their blends.
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CONCLUSION
The most common and popular fabrics remains the Banarasi,Jamawar, paithanis, atlas and katans. These are the fabrics that aperson can usually find in our local markets and have a high level ofdemand. However the other materials like tanchoi, mushabbar, himru
/ amru, mushru, etc. have been relegated to selective niches in the
market. Most people even after coming across these fabrics usuallyrefer to them as others due to the absence of such materials inpopular use and lack of awareness in general of the availability ofthese fabrics.
Awareness of these Indian woven materials will have to be startedwithin our own country. Thus, we will require special exhibitions of
designers who work with these materials, displaying of thesematerials at fashion shows, promotion of the clothing designed in thematerials with the high end boutiques and awareness creationthrough experts and designers talk shows.