Guide to the Autonomia of Cataluña - Camino de...
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Catalonia Spain Barcelona Girona Lleida Tarragona
Transcript of Guide to the Autonomia of Cataluña - Camino de...
Cat
alon
iaSp
ain
BarcelonaGironaLleida
Tarragona
France
United Kingdom
Ireland
Morocco
Madrid
Girona
Paris
London
Dublin
LisbonSpain
Catalonia
Canary Islands
Atlantic Ocean
MediterraneanSea
Portugal
CeutaMelilla
Tarragona
LleidaBarcelona
Introduction 1
A walk round the capital cities
Barcelona 10Tarragona 16Lleida 19Girona 22
Trips round the autonomous comunity
GironaCosta Brava 25The Eastern Pyrenees and valleys 29BarcelonaCosta de Garrafand Costa del Maresme 31The province’s inland area 34TarragonaCosta Daurada 35LleidaThe Western Pyreneesand Val d´Aran 39
Leisure and shows 42
Useful information 47
Cantabrian Sea
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Emb.de Riba-roja
Emb.de Mequinenza
Emb. de Boadella
Emb. deSau
Emb. deOliana
Emb.de Flix
Emb. deBarasona
Emb. deSusqueda
Emb. deGrado
Emb.de Mediano
Golfode Roses
Islas Medes
Islas Formigues
Punta delsCanons
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P.N. DE ORDESAY MONTE PERDIDO
P.N. DE AIGÜESTORTESY LAGO DE SANT MAURICI
P. N.DELTA DE L´EBRE
P. N. SAN LLORENÇDEL MUNT I L’OBAC
P. N.CADI-MOIXERÓ
P. N.MONTSENY
P. N. ZONAVOLCÁNICA
DE LA GARROTXA
P. N.CAP DE CREUS
P. N. AIGUAMOLLSDE L’EMPORDÁ
P. N. DE LA MUNTANYADE MONTSERRAT
B. de Luchon
Tarascon
Ax-les-Thermes
QuillanArreau Port-BarcaresFos
Port-Vendres
Estagel
Millans
Prats-de-Mollo
Mont-Louis
PERPIGNAN
Coll d’Ares
Cap Tortosa
Cap Roig
Cerler
Arcusa
Laguarres
Arties
Caldes de Boi
Baqueira
Adrall
la Panadella
Platja d'Aro
Albarca
l'Ampolla
l'Hospitalet de l'Infant
Bel
Llafranc
les Casesd'Alcanar
Calafat
Canyelles
Empuriabrava
l´Estartit
s’Agarò
Tamariu
Sant Pere de Rodes
Empúries
Palafolls
Monestir de Poblet
Taüll
Calella de Palafrugell
Monestir deSantes Creus
Vallbona deles Monges
Mequinenza
FayónNonaspe
FabaraMaella
BielsaBenasque
Castejónde Sos
Ainsa-Sobrabe
Campo
Santa Liestray San Quilez
Graus Puentede Montañana
El GradoBenabarre
Estadilla
Sopeira
Fonz
Tamaritede Litera
AltorrincónPomar
de Cinca
Binaced
Alcolea
Ontiñena
Albalatede Cinca
BallobarZaidín
Torrentede Cinca
Candasnos
Calaceite
ValderrobresBeceite
LesBossóst
SalardúVielha
Esterri d'ÀneuVall deCardó
EspotLlavorsí
el Pontde Suert
Ager
CamarasaAlfarrás
Almenar
LlesBellver
de Cerdanya
Martinet
Gerri de la Sal
la Poblade Segur
OrganyáColl deNargó
Sant Llorençde Morunys
OlianaBassella
Ponts
Agramunt Guissona
Artesade Segre
Torá
Sort
Alcarrás
Bell-llocd'Urgell
Soses
TorregrosaJuneda
Castelldans
Serós
Maials la Granadella
Bellcaire d'Urgell
Sant RamonLinyola
Anglesola
Bellpuig
Vinaixa
Bagá
l'Espunyola
la Poblade Lillet
ViladaSant Agustíde Lluçanès
GironellaPuig-reig
Pratsde Lluçanès
Vilanovade Sau
TonaMoiàBalsareny
Montseny
Olost
Monistrolde Montserrat
Sant Pol de Mar
Begues
Garraf
Fonollosa
Calaf
Castellolí
Capellades
la Jonquera Portbou
Puigcerdà
Alp SetcasesRibes
de Freser CamprodonSant Joan de
les AbadessesSant Pau
de Seguries
les Llosses
Castellfollitde la Roca
Besalú
Amer
Anglès
Arbúcies Sils
Hostalric
Llançàel Port de la Selva
Capmany
Cadaqués
Viladamat l'Escala
Pals Begur
LlagosteraVidreres
Tossa de Mar
Belianes
la Bisbalde Falset
FlixAscóla Pobla
de Massaluca
Móra d'Ebre
Falset
Santa Colomade Queralt
Sarral
l'Espluga de Francolí
Vilarodona
la Selva del Camp
CalafellRiudoms
Mont-roigdel Camp Vila-seca
Móra la NovaGandesaBatea
el Pinell de BraiTivissa
Rasquera VandellòsPrat de Compte
ArnesXerta Tivenys
el Perelló l'Ametlla de Mar
la CavaMas deBarberans
SantaBàrbara
la Senia
Ulldecona
Pueblade Benifasar
ChertTraiguera
La JanaSant Mateu
CáligTirig
El Serrat
SoldeuOrdinoEncamp
les Escaldes
Alcover
LlíviaVilaller
Sant Esteved’en Bas
Altafulla
Peralada
Colera
Castello d´Empúries
Queralbs
Alella
Caldes d´Estrac
Cunit
Segur de Calafell
Montgat
Barbastro
Monzón
Binefar
Fraga
Tremp
Balaguer
la Seu d'Urgell
Solsona
Almacelles
CerveraTárrega
les BorgesBlanques
Berga
Cardona Súria
Manlleu
Sallent Centelles
la Garriga
Sant Celoni Tordera
CalellaCaldes de Montbui
Castellar del Vallès
Argentona
Esparraguera
Martorell
Molins de Rei
Sant JustDesvern
Sitges
el Masnou
Premià de Mar
Arenys de Mar
Pineda de Mar
Sant Sadurníd'Anoia
RipollOlot
Banyoles
Santa Colomade Farners
la Bisbald'Empordà
PalafrugellCassà dela Selva
Lloret de Mar
San Feliu de Guixols
Palamós
Blanes
Montblanc
Vallsel Vendrell
Torredembarra
Tortosa
Amposta
Sant Carles de la Rápita
Alcanar
Cambrils
Salou
Vinaròs
Benicarló
Mollerusa
Roses
Calonge
Torroellade Montgrí
Vilassar de Mar
Canet
Malgrat de Mar
Vic
Manresa
Granollers
RipolletRubí
Gavà
CastelldefelsEl Prat de Llobregat
Vilanova i la Geltrú
Igualada
Villafrancadel Penedès
Figueres
Reus
Terrassa Sabadell
Badalona
MataróLLEIDA
GIRONA
TARRAGONA
ANDORRALA VELLA
BARCELONA
CERLER
BAQUEIRA-BERET
VALLTER-2000
LA MOLINA
MASELLA
PORTDEL COMTE
PORT-AINÉ
ESPOT-ESQUÍBOÍ-TAÜLL
RESORT
RASOS DEPEGUERA
VALL DENURIA
Túnel de Bielsa2575
Pico Posets3371
3145Pic Carlit
2921
1834
2492
1115
1108
1677
Sant Gervás2070
1023
1694
326
1095
1238
1115
1201Prades
l’Espina
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2913Puigmal
3091
3408Pic d´Estats
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1450Roc de Fraussa
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Boumort
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Port dela Bonaigua
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Vall de Ribes
Vall FerreraVall d’Àneu
Vall d’Aran
Val d
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P L A D ´ U R G E L L
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F R A N C I A
ANDORRA
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MotorwayExpresswayNational roadPrimary basic network roadSecondary basic network roadLocal roadRailwayNational ParkNature ParkState hotelMonumentHistorical ruinsSki resortAirport
PP
50 Km.10 20 30 40
CARTOGRAFÍA: GCAR, S.L. Cardenal Silíceo, 35Tel. 91 416 73 41 - 28002 MADRID - AÑO 2000
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CASTELLÓN DE LA PLANA 60 km
Introduction
Getting to knowCataloniaAccording to a legend widelyaccepted by the Catalonianpeople, in the ninth century,just before Wifredo I (El Velloso) died, blood fromhis battle wounds was smearedonto his shield, forming fourvertical lines: the four red
stripes featured on thesenyera, or flag of theAutonomous Community ofCatalonia. Thus was born thesymbol of identity ofCatalonia, an outward-looking,Mediterranean region with itsown culture and language(Catalan), through which itspersonality has gradually takenshape. Of a friendly nature,Catalonians are extroverted yetdiscreet and these
characteristics come to the forein their traditional dance, thesardana, a true reflection offraternity, performed to thebeat of music charged withmelodiousness.
With a population of over sixmillion, Catalonia covers asurface area of 31,930 km2 inthe northeast of the IberianPeninsula. It is flanked to thenorth by France and Andorra,
to the south by theAutonomous Community ofValencia, to the west byAragón and to the east by theMediterranean Sea, whosewaters bathe its more than 500 km of coastline.
A land of contrasts, theCatalonian community is of avaried relief which endows itwith clearly differentiatedlandscapes: deep valleys,
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Coast of Girona
remote mountain villages,large capital cities, seafaringtowns, snow-capped peaks,spacious beaches and eventiny coves that may bereached only from the sea. As a result, the visitor findshimself in the enviableposition of being able toenjoy highly different sceneswithin easy distance of oneanother.
The Pyrenean mountain rangeruns from west to east alongCatalonia's northern territoryuntil it reaches theMediterranean Sea. Betweenthe Pyrenees and the littoraland pre-littoral chains lies thecommunity's flattest area,formed by the centraldepression.
The inland area is essentially aland of farmers and cattle-breeders. Here, the countrysideis made up of arable landspeckled with villages and thetypical Catalonian rural housesknown as masíes.
The region's climate isconditioned by its varied relief.Of the Mediterraneancontinental type, it is mild andwarm on the coast but moreextreme in the areas of higheraltitude, where snow isfrequent. It is humid on thecoast and dryer inland.Catalonia, which is dividedadministratively into fourprovinces (Barcelona, Girona,Lleida and Tarragona) andterritorially into 41 regions, isone of the Mediterranean'smajor tourism centres and isspecifically equipped for thepurpose with a first-classinfrastructure which makes it a popular choice amongcongress and conventionorganisers. With facilitiesranging from hotels, hotelsand boarding houses to campsites and rural tourism hotels,the Catalonian community hasan accommodation capacity ofapproximately 500,000 places.
In addition to tourism,Catalonia has always been animportant centre of industrialactivity, based originally on thetextile sector, though it has
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River Monastero. Lleida
spread towards other areassuch as the car industry, food,chemicals and electronics. A modern community, well-positioned in the area of newtechnologies, its inhabitantsremain loyal to custom andtradition.
Catalonia's seaports (includingtwo of the leadingMediterranean ports,Barcelona and Tarragona),fishing ports and pleasureharbours total 43, while 61percent of its surface area iscovered by forest, with about6,500 km2 of protected naturalspaces making up a hugeenclave of biodiversity.
From coastal tourism (CostaDaurada, Costa de Garraf,Costa del Maresme and CostaBrava), winter and mountainholiday resorts (the CatalonianPyrenees) to rural tourism(inland) and sightseeing,
coupled with the charm ofeach town and city, there is awide range of tourismactivities, all within Catalonia'sboundaries.
When visiting this autonomouscommunity, the traveller willrealise that Catalonia is muchmore than this brochure couldever describe. With the chanceto breathe in the freshmountain air, go bathing inthe region's waters, admire themonuments, enjoy refinedcuisine, in Catalonia, pleasantsurprises await round everycorner. The best thing for thevisitor to do is to study themaps and establish areas ofpriority interest, confident inthe knowledge that whicheverspot he chooses, Catalonia willnot let him down.
www.cataloniaweb.com
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Port of Tarragona
History
Catalonia's history has evolvedalongside a people's tenaciousefforts to conserve their signsof identity; a people that havelent their territory to a numberof civilisations, drawing fromtheir cultures andaccumulating a vast historical-artistic heritage.
In ancient times, this territoryreceived an initial influx ofIndo-European peoples whocame from Central Europe.Later, the Celts would arriveand, between the eighth andfirst centuries B.C., first thePhoenicians and then theGreeks appeared, to befollowed by the Iberians, whooccupied the Mediterraneanstrip of the peninsula, withsome tribes deciding to settlein Catalonia. The Romansarrived in these lands in thesecond century B.C., starting aRomanisation process whichwould reach its culminatingpoint 200 years later. TheMoslem era would comeafterwards.
Towards the year 800 A.D., thetroops of Charlemagne wonpart of what is now Catalonianterritory from the Moslems.The ninth century marked theperiod of Catalonia's politicalconstruction. The area wasorganised into counties, the
main one being Barcelona. In the eleventh century, theCatalonian counties joinedtogether under thedomination of RamónBerenguer I. Having formed adynastic union with Aragón inthe twelfth century, Cataloniaundertook its great territorialexpansion process in thefollowing century, during thereign of Jaime I El Conquistador,who added the territories ofValencia and Majorca to hisrealm. Next came theTrastamara period and thenthe era of the Austrias, withCarlos I, who would forgedynastic union between theKingdoms of Castile andAragón in the sixteenthcentury. As a result of the
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Paseo arqueológico. Tarragona
defeats suffered by Cataloniain the War of Succession in theearly eighteenth century,Felipe V assumed the throne.
In nineteenth centuryCatalonia, a widespread desirefor self-rule took root, startingoff with a struggle to recoverthe region's own law and tomaintain its own language andcustoms. Thus was born theMancomunitat de Cataluña(the commonwealth ofCatalonia), the embryo of theautonomous government, atthe beginning of the twentiethcentury. The complex businessof establishing the Generalitatde Cataluña (Cataloniangovernment) was completedduring the Second Republic.
However, after the Civil War,Franco's government remainedaloof of such aspirations until,in 1979, a more open-mindedpolitical approach led to theapproval of the AutonomyStatute and the restoration ofwhat is now the Generalitat deCataluña.
Artistic heritage
The many peoples whosettled in the territory ofCatalonia left their mark inthe form of an artistic legacy,with countless constructionsof great architecturalinterest. Catalonia's mostancient artistic possessionsare the cave paintings foundin El Cogul, El Perelló andUlldecona and the megalithicmonuments which may stillbe seen in the region'snorthern area.
The short-lived Greekcolonisation left behind it thearchaeological remains of theancient city of Rhode (Roses)and of Empúries, where thereis still valuable evidence of theRoman era also. However, thegreatest exponent ofRomanisation in Catalonia is,beyond any doubt, the city ofTarragona, which standsproud of its walls,amphitheatre and circus,amongst other importantmonuments.
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Similarly, Arab domination leftsigns of its brief occupation,such as the castle, Castillo de laSuda, in Tortosa. Little by little,all these ancient civilisationsendowed Catalonia with ahistorical-artistic heritagewhich was further enhanced inthe Middle Ages whenRomanesque art and later,Gothic, chose this territory toerect their architectural gems.
The range of CatalonianRomanesque covers over 2,000constructions, from early ruralchurches to huge cathedrals.Remarkable instances of thefirst Catalonian Romanesquestyle are to be found in theseries of churches standing inValle de Boi in the Western
Pyrenees. In the thirteenthcentury, what is known as thesecond Romanesque styleflourished, moving towards afine sculptural decoration suchas that seen in the Cathedral ofLa Seu d'Urgell, the cloister inthe Cathedral of Girona, thefrontispiece and the cloister ofthe Cathedral of Tarragonaand the old monastery atRipoll.
The complex construction ofthe great Cistercianmonasteries at Poblet, SantesCreus and Vallbona de lesMonges was also started inaccordance with theRomanesque model, althoughultimately, Gothic prevailed.
When, after the conquest ofthe Balearic Islands and theKingdom of Valencia,Catalonia was enjoying one ofits greatest moments ofsplendour and all the townsand cities were seized by apassion for new buildings,Gothic art became thedominant feature. Barcelonaboasts a first-class Gothicheritage, with its magnificentcathedral, the superb Churchof Santa María del Mar and themonastery at Pedralbes. InGirona, the cathedral has thewidest Gothic nave in Europe,while in Lleida, there is the SeuVella Cathedral and inTarragona, the cathedral and
La Sagrada Familia. Barcelona
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the walled monumentalensemble of Montblanc.
Renaissance and baroque wereof less significance in Cataloniathan the above aesthetictendencies. Even so, thereremain fine examples of thatperiod, such as the Basílica dela Mercè, in Barcelona; theinstances of Renaissance art inTarragona Cathedral; the SeuNova de Lleida and theinteresting baroque altarpiecesin the churches at Cadaqués,on the Costa Brava, and atArenys de Mar, in Maresme.
During the closing decades ofthe nineteenth century,Catalonia witnessed anoutburst of modernism. InBarcelona, Antonio Gaudí, themovement's greatestexponent, erected buildingsadmired the world over, likePedrera, Park Güell and the asyet unfinished Sagrada Familia.From the exceptional ensemblein the city itself, modernist artspread all over Catalonia,creating works of specialinterest such as some of thebuildings in the city of Reus,built by the architect,Domènech i Montaner.
Later, in the early years of thetwentieth century, avant-gardeart would begin to make itspresence felt. The first quarterof the century welcomed the
arrival of such major figures asJoan Miró and Salvador Dalí,two artists who were destinedto reach worldwide fame.
Natural heritageCatalonia possesses aboundless wealth oflandscapes of extraordinarydiversity and beauty, treasured
in the form of a national parkand a good number of natureparks: an ideal setting in whichto switch off from daily routineand go and watch thespectacle of life.
The province of Barcelona ishome to the nature park,Parque Natural de la
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Mountain of Montserrat
Muntanya de Montserrat, oneof the most popular places inCatalonia, not only because ofthe overwhelming beauty ofthe Mountain of Montserratbut also because it is here thatthe shrine of Mare de Déu deMontserrat stands. The shrine,with its image of the patronsaint of Catalonia, LaMoreneta, is frequently visitedby Marian devotees. Close athand are two other natureparks: Montseny, declared as aReserve of the Biosphereowing to its ecologicaldiversity, and Parque Naturalde Santa Llorenç del Munt iL'Obac, of particular intereston account of the vegetableand animal habitat found in itscaves, home to several speciesof bats and insects, some ofwhich are exclusive to the area.
Approaching the BarcelonaPyrenees lies Parque Natural
Cadí-Moixeró, Catalonia'slargest nature park, wherenature lovers have the chanceto observe a wide variety offauna and to admire theAlpine-like landscapes,including the chain formed bythe Cadí and Moixeró ranges,Macizo de Pedraforca and partof the Puigllançada and Tosad'Alp. Amongst the park'sattractions are the all-terraincircuits and trips by sledgesdrawn by Nordic dogs (touristinformation 93 824 41 51).
In the province of Girona,there are three nature parks:Parque Natural d'Aiguamollsde l'Empordà, formed by agroup of lakelets whichprovide a privileged habitat foraquatic birds (over 323 birdspecies and a reserve formammals like the otter andthe polecat); Parque NaturalZona Volcánica de la Garrotxa,
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National park of Aigüestortes y Lago de Sant Maurici
situated round the town ofOlot, with as many as 30volcanic cones, craters and lavaoutflows, making it into one ofEurope's major nature parks(information 972 26 60 12);and Parque Natural de Cap deCreus, a combination of landand sea set in the superb, wildcountryside on the peninsulaof the same name.
Lleida has one of Spain'sprettiest national parks,Parque Nacional deAigüestortes y Lago de SantMaurici, a majestic landscapenoted for its lofty peakslooking down onto countlesspools and ponds. Water is inabundance here, with 24mountain lakes, the best-known of which is SantMaurici. Of equal interest arethe Estany Gran, with itssplendid cascades, and theEstany Negre. A good startingpoint for a trip round the parkis Camí dels Enamorats andRoca de la Cremada. The routecrossing the park from Boi toEspot is one of the mostfascinating in the entirePyrenees.
Lastly, to the south of theprovince of Tarragona, liesParque Natural Delta de l'Ebre,a seaside area of greatecological importanceconsisting of a vast plaingenerously endowed with
canals and pools. Theshoreline's main features arethe huge sandbanks andimpressive dunes formed bythe action of the sea.Particularly noteworthy are Illade Buda, El Fangar and Portdels Alfacs. In this natural area,measuring 7,736 hectares,there are flora and fauna thatare unique to Catalonia: over300 different bird species andfish in great abundance. In thetown of Deltebre, the visitor isrecommended to look roundthe Ecomuseo, where he willfind lots of information aboutthe Delta (Ecomuseo
977 48 96 79).
There are more protectednatural areas in Catalonia, likeSierra de Albera, famous for itsvaluable population ofMediterranean tortoises, andLos Medes; not forgettingpartially protected areas, suchas Riera Arbúcies-Hostalric,Timoneda d'Alfès, Mas deMelons and Alt Àneu, amongothers; and certain sections ofsome rivers, like La Llosa,Segre-Isòvol and NogueraPallaresa.
www.gencat.es/darp/medi/pein/cparcs02.htm
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A walk roundthe capital cities
Barcelona
Founded by the Romans in thearea between the RiversLlobregat and Besòs, theprimitive enclosure of Barcinowas situated on the MonsTaber. A universal,cosmopolitan city, Barcelona isa city of contrasts where theancestral past lives on side-by-side with the mostcontemporary of architecturesin a state of perfect harmony.
The nucleus of the capital ofCatalonia is the Gothic Quarter,where some of the city's mostsymbolic buildings are to befound, such as the cathedral(1), where features fromdifferent styles are combined.
Built in the period from thethirteenth to the fifteenthcenturies, it is a temple withthree Gothic-style naves and anineteenth century facade. Thebuilding houses anoutstanding artistic heritage inthe form of the spaciouscloister, the RomanesqueChapel of Santa Llucía and thecrypt of Santa Eulàlia.
Coming out of the cathedralthrough the main door, onesees Casa de l'Ardiaca (2),rebuilt from the fifteenthcentury onwards on the city'sRoman wall (3), of which anumber of notable fragmentsstill remain. Nearby is themediaeval building of PiaAlmoina (4).
Going along Calle de El Bisbéand then under the neo-Gothicbridge of Casa dels Canonges(5), the visitor reaches Plaça deSant Jaume (6), where thebuildings housing the city halland the autonomousgovernment, Generalitat deCatalunya, stand face to face.From here, Calle Ferran will leadus to the heart of the Ramblas(7), which start at Plaça deCatalunya (8) and end at themonument to ChristopherColumbus (9). The upper sectionof this world-famouspromenade is known as theRambla de Canaletes, after thespring of the same name.
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Cathedral
Església deSanta Anna
Esglésiade Betlem
Palau Moja
Hospital dela Santa Creu
Palau de laGeneralitat
Ajuntament
PalauDalmases
Llotjade Mar
Palau Güell
Centre d'ArtSanta Mònica
Església delsSants Just i Pastor
Capella deSta. Águeda
Museu Picasso
PalauReial Major
MuseuTextil
Mercatde SantaCaterina
Museu d'Històriade la Ciutat
CapitaníaGeneral
PalauMarch
MuseuMarítim
Museude Cera
Biblioteca de Catalunya
Església deSt. Felip Neri
Estacióde França
MOLL DE LA FUSTA
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Plaça delPortal de la Pau
Plaçad'AntoniLópez
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Pl. Vilade Madrid
PlaçaTeatre
Pl. SantMiquel
Plaça VíctorBalaguer
Pl. AntoniMaura
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Carrer Josep Anselm Clave
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Carrer dels Escudellers
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Av. Francesc Cambo
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del Mar
Las RamblasTourist information
11
Old Quarter
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Plaça GloriesCatalanes
8 Plaça de Catalunya15 Drassanes16 Port Vell17 Puerto de Barcelona19 Barceloneta20 Vila Olímpica21 Anella Olímpic22 National Palace of Montjuïc 23 La Sagrada Familia24 Park Güell25 Casa Batlló26 Casa Milà “La Pedrera”
28 Parc de la Ciutadella29 Collserolla30 Monastery of Pedralbes
Nautical sports centre Plaça de Catalunya Vila OlímpicaTourist information
1312
BARCELONA
Tradition has it that anytraveller who drinks from itswaters will return to the city.
The Ramblas are the liveliestpart of the city. Here, one maypause to watch the pavementartists or pass the timebrowsing at the well-stockednewspaper stands. Failing that,one may observe the streetsellers, with their arrays offlowers and even smallanimals. Moving along theRamblas, the visitor will findthe popular market, LaBoquería (10), the palace,Palau de la Virreina (11), anaustere rococo building fromthe eighteenth century, andthe Gran Teatre del Liceu (12),opened in 1847 and rebuiltafter it was burnt down in atragic fire in 1994. On theother side of the promenadestands Plaça Reial (13), anarchitectural ensemble ofnineteenth century porticoed
buildings. Not far away, thegreat Gothic Basílica de SantaMaria del Pi (14) can be seen.
The next stop on our walk willbe the Drassanes (15), the city'sold shipyards, and then PortVell (16), linked by the floatingfootbridge of Rambla del Marto the Maremàgnum, a hugeamusement and shoppingcentre. Close by is one of theMediterranean's busiest ports,Puerto de Barcelona (17).
Not far from Paseo de Colón isthe Basílica de la Mercè (18), aneighteenth century baroquebuilding named after the city'spatron saint. This route willtake us to the Barceloneta (19),the old fishermen's districtwhich is now full of seafoodrestaurants. From here,Rompeolas may be reached.
The year of 1992 is a key datein the city's history because itwas then that Barcelonahosted the XXV OlympicGames. In preparation for thisevent, the city of Barcelona,also known as the CiudadCondal, was completelytransformed: with the VilaOlímpica (20), now a leisurecentre, the seafront wasrecovered and some areaswhich had, until then, beenabandoned, were made intoinviting beaches. Such is the caseof Mar Bella and El Bogatell.
14
Monument to Christopher Columbus
Also resulting from thisrenovation process is the Anella Olímpica (21), situatedon the mountain of Montjuïc.Of special note are the EstadiOlímpic, the Palau Sant Jordi,covered by an enormousmetallic structure designed by the Japanese Arata Isozaki, and the Torre deTelecomunicaciones, by thearchitect Calatrava. At the footof the mountain are theMontjuïc castle and nationalpalace (Castillo/Palau Nacionalde Montjuïc) (22), joined toPlaza de Españya by the MaríaCristina Promenade, famous forthe illuminated fountains whichadd further appeal to the walkas far as Font Màgica.
The visitor should bear in mindthat the overriding symbol ofBarcelona's identity ismodernist architecture, bestrepresented by the figures ofAntoni Gaudí, Josep Puig iCadafalc and Lluís Domènech iMontaner. Accordingly, it is anabsolute must to visit buildingslike the Sagrada Familia (23),Park Güell (24), Casa Batlló (25),Casa Milà "La Pedrera" (26) andthe Palau de la Música Catalana(27). The last two of theseworks, along with Park Güell,have been declared worldheritage sites.
Other places of interest are thecity's largest park, Parc de la
Ciutadella (28), providing accessto the zoo; Collserola (29), fromwhere the best views of the cityare to be had; and the twomajor works in Catalan Gothic,the Monastery of Pedralbes(30) and the Church of SantaMaria del Mar (31).
Anybody visiting this great city,considered to be one of thebest-equipped in the world interms of infrastructure, willrealise that the capital ofCatalonia has so much to seeand enjoy that it would takesheets and sheets of paper todescribe it all. May the abovedescription suffice to give thereader albeit a rough idea ofthe many things he can expectto find when he arrives inBarcelona.
www.barcelonaturisme.com
15
Casa Milà “La Pedrera”
Tarragona
Present-day Tarragona(Tarraco) became the chief cityin Roman Catalonia and oneof the leading towns on theIberian Peninsula. It has beendeclared a world heritage siteby UNESCO. The capital ofCosta Daurada possesses aconsiderable artistic andarchitectural heritage which,together with the beaches,makes it into a tourism centreof tremendous interest.
Situated on the mouth of theRiver Francolí, Tarragona is anideal place from which tosurvey the Mediterranean Sea.For this purpose, at the end ofRambla Nova (1), on Paseo deLes Palmeres (2), there is amagnificent vantage point ormirador. If the intention is to
enjoy the impressivepanoramic views of thecapital, then the best thing todo is to go to PaseoArqueológico (3), built aroundthe Roman walls, which dateback to the early years of theRoman occupation. From here,one can see as far as "Pont delDiable" (Aqüeducte de lesFerreres), a Roman aqueductwhich is a masterpiece ofengineering, situated aboutfour km from the capital.
The high part of the city ismade up of the old quarter, asightseer's delight set insidethe old Roman wall (4) fromthe second century B.C..Dominating the scene is theCathedral of Santa Maria (5),the capital's main mediaevalbuilding, together with themediaeval arcades in CalleMercería (6).
Proof of the Romanoccupation of the city isfurnished by the circus (7),which goes back to times priorto the first century A.D.. Itsremains are situated roundthe present Plaça de la Font,near Rambla Vella (8).Although it has deterioratedin the course of time, it isone of the best-preservedconstructions of its kind inEurope. At the end of thisrambla stands theamphitheatre (9), built in the
16
Aqüeducte de les Ferreres
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1 Rambla Nova2 Paseo de les Palmeres3 Paseo Arqueológico4 Roman wall5 Cathedral of Santa María6 Calle Mercería7 Circus8 Rambla Vella 9 Amphitheatre
10 Beach of El Miracle11 Palaeo-Christian burial site12 Calle de Çavallers13 Port14 El Serrallo
Tourist information
17
TARRAGONA
second century A.D.. A goodpart of its structure may stillbe seen today, overlookingthe pretty beach known as ElMiracle (10). Other places ofinterest in the city include thepalaeo-Christian burial site(11), considered to be one ofthe most outstanding gardensof rest of this type in thewestern world, and Calle deÇavallers (12), the main street
in mediaeval Tarragona. This Catalan capital alsopossesses a superb port (13),one of the most important inthe Mediterranean. The arearound the port is the settingfor El Serrallo (14), thefishermen's quarter, wherethe visitor is recommended totry the city's best selection offish and seafood.
Tarragona is, beyond anydoubt, a city to suit all tastes.Combining a modern outlookwith a pride in its preciousreminders of former times, itis an ideal place to delve intohistory.
www.costadaurada.org
18
Cathedral cloister
Beach of El Miracle
Lleida
Spreading over the banks ofthe River Segre, in the middleof fertile, fruit-growingcountry, Lleida boasts a varietyof monuments which bearwitness to the highly diversecultures that left their mark onthe capital. It is anextraordinarily attractive city,standing erect amid nature inits purest state as it looks tothe future with the best of thepast behind it.
The old town is situated onthe right bank of the river.Here, of particular interest isthe old cathedral, Seu Vella(1), a combination ofRomanesque and Gothic builton the site of an age-oldMoslem mosque. In the interior, the streaminglight greatly enhances thebeauty of the sculpturaldecoration. After dark, bathedin the shadows cast by theexterior lights, it seems to stepout from its surroundings,creating a splendid sight as itholds sway over the entire city.Also worthy of note is the newcathedral, or Seu Nova (2), aninteresting neoclassical workbuilt in the eighteenthcentury. It is approached fromCarrer Major.
In the same street, packed withshops and amusements, we
find Casino Principal (3), builtin the style of the Novecento.Carrying on down AvenidaBlondel (4), sights of differentstyles are to be seen. Near SeuNova is the Church of SantLlorenç (5) which, thoughcommenced in a lateRomanesque style (thirteenthcentury), possesses a goodnumber of Gothic features.
Other places to be visitedinclude the palace, Palau de laPaeria (6), which has beenaltered considerably since itwas built in the thirteenthcentury and is now used as thecity hall; and Hospital SantaMaría (7), of interest onaccount of its late Gothic innerpatio suffused with light.
The left bank of the river is thesite of the modern part of thecity, born of expansion in the
19
Palau de la Paeria
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Seu VellaTourist information
20
twentieth century. Arts andcrafts fairs and traditional,folkloric events are held in theprepossessing gardens knownas Camps Elisis (8).
When leaving Lleida, thetraveller is recommended totake the N-II road, passingthrough Tarrega to stop atCervera. This partly-walledtown has a curious old quarterwhose main attraction is theuniversity building. Opened in1720, it was the only universityin Catalonia for 100 years. Notfar away is the mediaevalChurch of Sant Antoni and theold Church of San Bernat,where the marriage of theCatholic Sovereigns took place.This town, still within theprovince of Lleida, is also
famous for its popular carreróde les bruixes, or witches'alleyway, and for the Church ofSanta Maria, a fine example ofCatalan Gothic.
www.paeria.es/turisme
21
Santa María Hospital
Cervera University
Girona
Situated in the Ter valley, atthe confluence of the RiversGüell, Galligants and Onyar,Girona is known as the city ofthe four rivers. The River Onyarruns right through it, with theold part of the city on the rightbank and the modern town onthe left.
In the old part, there are stillremains of the ancient city wall(1), which winds its way alongfrom Paseo Arqueológico (2) toJardines de la Muralla (3). Theprominent feature in this areais the cathedral (4), a majesticbuilding characterised by amixture of styles, the Gothicnave, the widest in mediaevalEuropean architecture, beingof particular interest. Inside isthe Tresor de la Catedral,where the famous Tapiz de la
Creación (tapestry of thecreation) is kept. Made duringthe eleventh and twelfthcenturies, it is the major workin Catalan Romanesquetapestry-making.
Near the cathedral stand theinteresting diocesan artmuseum, Museu d'Art deGirona, and the handsomeGothic building, Pia Almoina(5). Walking on along CalleForça, the visitor will reachthe Call, or the JewishQuarter (6), inhabited by alarge Hebrew communityduring the Middle Ages.
Leaving this quarter on theleft-hand side, we will find thetwelfth century Arab baths, orBaños Árabes (7), and furtheron, the Benedictine monasteryof Sant Pere de Galligants (8),declared a historical-artisticmonument. Opposite is theRomanesque Church of SantNicolau (9).
There are lots more sights tosee in the old quarter, aconstant reflection of thewealth of its historic past. Thevisitor might wish to go andadmire, for instance, any of theseveral convents, such as SantDomènec (10), El Carme orSant Josep.
In the modern part of Girona,points of interest include
22
View of the city
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10 Convent of Sant Domènec11 Santa Caterina Hospital12 Parc de la Devesa
CathedralTourist information
23
GIRONA
Hospital de Santa Caterina(11), a seventeenth centurybaroque building with aneoclassical facade and anumber of modernistconstructions. Before leavingthe city, it is worthwhile goingto Parc de la Devesa (12),where the local people like togo in their leisure time. With asurface area of over 40hectares, it is the largestbanana plantation inCatalonia.
Having bid farewell to Girona,the visitor is recommended totake the C-150 road to thetown of Banyoles. Here, themain attraction for the touristis the lake, or estany, of greatgeological interest. Set in afine landscape, the lake is thesubject of many a legend. It ispossible to walk right roundthe lake by following thepretty paths and strollingthrough the delightful parks.Boat trips are also available forthose wishing to see the areafrom a different angle.
www.cbrava.es
24
Jewish Quarter
Church of Sant Pere Galligants
Arab baths
Trips round the autonomouscommunity
GironaCosta Brava
From Portbou to Blanes, theCosta Brava is Catalonia'snorthernmost section ofshoreline. It is characterised byquaint seafaring towns,charming coves lapped bycrystal-clear waters and astring of striking rocky cliffsbattered at will by theMediterranean Sea. It earnedits name of brava (wild) onaccount of its rugged relief,formed by a number ofmountain chains fallingabruptly down to the sea.
When setting off on his tripalong the northern coast, thefirst town the visitor will find isPortbou. Travelling southwardsalong the N-260 road, thetown of Colera, of greatseafaring tradition, is reached.Two of the most temptingbeaches are the ones at Coleraand Garbes, separated byPunta dels Canons.
Next comes the town of Llançà,with its popular pleasureharbour, and the seafaringvillage of El Port de la Selva, afine instance of the rapport
between sea and mountain sofrequent in this area, surveyedby the old Benedictinemonastery of San Pere deRodes, one of the chiefmonuments in CatalanRomanesque art. Close at handis the peninsula of Cap deCreus, recently declared anature park. Reaching into thesea over a distance of about 10km, the peninsula is typical ofthe scenery on this shoreline.
Continuing our coastal tripsouthwards, we arrive in oneof the Costa Brava's mostsymbolic villages: Cadaqués.Not for nothing did itsindescribable beauty attractcountless intellectuals andartists, such as Pablo Picasso,
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Monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes
who produced exceptionalCubist paintings at the start ofthe century, and Salvador Dalíwho, years later, from hishome in Portlligat just one kmaway, would turn the villageinto an international enclavefor artists.
We then move on to the gulf,Golfo de Roses which, forminga 15 km curve, makes for a far-stretching beach, rounded offwith the towns of Roses andEmpúries. Roses is noted for itsold fortress and sixteenthcentury citadel, where curiousremains of the Greek colony ofRhode may still be seen. Fromhere, we take the C-260 roadinland to the town of Figuereswhere, amongst other things,we can visit the Dalí Theatre-Museum, containing theartist's tomb.
Just four kilometres inland, aswe carry on along the C-260
road, looms the castle, Castellód'Empúries, with its rich artisticheritage. Proof of this is theexquisite fourteenth centuryBasílica de Santa Maria.Returning to the shoreline, weshall see the EmpuriabravaMarina.
Approaching the end of theGolfo de Roses stands L'Escala,which will lead us to the ruinsof the Greek colony ofEmpúries, Catalonia's mostfrequently visitedarchaeological site.
Taking the road to Torroellade Montgrí, with its thirteenthcentury castle, L'Estartit, apicturesque fishing port,complete with pleasureharbour, awaits us. There areboat trips from the port to theislets known as Islas Medes, a
26
Cadaqués
small archipelago which wasonce a hideout for pirates.Situated less than one milefrom the coast, the sevenMedes islets form a protectedarea considered as a naturereserve because of thebiological value of thesurrounding waters, whereover a thousand marinespecies dwell.
Now in the southern part ofthe Costa Brava, we might stopoff at the village of Pals, proudof its sightseeing area, whichhas been declared a historical-artistic ensemble. Movingtowards the coast, we reachBegur, overlooked by theremains of an austere castle
built on the rocks. Withpleasing instances of populararchitecture and houses builtby the indianos (Spanishemigrants who returned toSpain after having made afortune in Latin America), thetown and its surrounding areahave received officialclassification as a beauty spot.
Little more than seven kmfurther along the inland roadis Palafrugell, with itsarchipelago known as IslasFormigues, ideal for scubadivers. On the sea front atPalafrugell, there are attractivetourist and residential areassituated in the old fishermen'sdistricts like Tamariu and
27
Llafranc, not forgetting Calellade Palafrugell, renowned forits sessions of habaneras (Afro-Cuban songs), at which thepopular cremat (flambéed rumwith coffee) is drunk.
Travelling south along the C-255 road, we reach Palamós,with its famous fishing portand excellent facilities forlovers of nautical sports.
Moving along the shoreline onthe same road, we enter Platjad'Aro, one of the area's mostpopular places as it so well-equipped in terms of shopsand leisure activities. A fewkilometres to the south is theluxury S'Agaró residentialestate, an example of selectivetourism at its best. Not faraway lies our next destination:Sant Feliu de Guíxols, with amodern tourist area and someof the most comprehensivesports facilities to be found onthis coastline.
The southernmost part of theCosta Brava is formed by LaSelva (the forest), with alandscape of exuberantvegetation which more thanjustifies its name. Tossa deMar, the first coastal town inthis area, has a walledenclosure, Vila Vella, togetherwith its Vila Nova, spreadingalong the beach. Following thecoastal road, Lloret de Mar is
28
Hermitage of Santa Cristina. Lloret de Mar
reached, now the main touristresort on the Costa Brava dueto its accommodation capacity.Apart from being of greatartistic interest, Lloret de Marhas interesting buildings likethe early sixteenth centuryChurch of Sant Romá, theSanta Cristina Hermitage andthe Monument to theSeafaring Woman.
The last town in the southernpart of the Costa Brava isBlanes, where it is worth goingto see the remains of thecastle, Castillo de San Joan,and the sightseeing area withits Gothic buildings datingback to the fourteenth andfifteenth centuries. The visitormight also take a stroll roundthe two botanical gardens:Mar i Murtra and Pinya Rosa.
And so our trip along the CostaBrava draws to an end. Fishingvillages, historical ruins, tinycoves and beautiful landscapesinvaded by the waters of anoften raging sea; in a word, anexceptional geographical areaso well-prepared for tourismthat it satisfies even the mostdemanding holidaymaker.
www.cbrava.es
The Eastern Pyreneesand valleys
The Pyrenees, Catalonia'snorthern mountain range,afford views of spotsnestling amid anastonishingly beautifullandscape. Snow-cladmountains, green valleysand crystalline rivers go tomake up an idyllic setting inwhich the tourist may enjoythe pleasure of travelling tothe full.
The traveller is advised tostart his tour of the EasternPyrenees at the municipaldistrict of Puigcerdà, thearea's commercial centre andhub of communications.Here stands the fifteenthcentury Convent of SantDomènec, complete with itsGothic murals.
29
Monastery of Santa María de Ripoll
The N-152 road, passingthrough Collada de Toses,will take us to Vall de Ribes,the Pyrenean valley whereRibes de Fresser is situated.It is necessary to go throughthis town to reach Vall deNúria, a stunning spotsurrounded by an imposingring of mountains throughwhich the river of the samename flows, forming a gorge
flanked by the chasms ofTotlomón and Roc del Dui.As if this were not enough,the glacial valleys ofFontalba and Fontcalda givethe whole scene anattractive finishing touch.
Towards the north, a roadleads to Queralbs, acharming mountain villageof picturesque stonebuildings. This is where thefootpath to the Shrine ofVirgen de Núria begins. It isalso possible to reach theshrine, situated at analtitude of 1,956 m, by therack railway. On arrival, theviews are breathtaking.
Returning to Ribes deFresser, we take the N-152road to Ripoll, where it is amust to visit theRomanesque monastery ofSanta Maria de Ripoll.Founded towards the ninthVall de Núria
30
century, the monasteryfeatures an extraordinaryportico showing interestingsculptural relief with scenesfrom the Bible.
From here, the C-151 roadtakes us to Sant Joan de lesAbadesses, situated in atypical Pyrenean valleybathed by the River Ter. Here there is an outstandingBenedictine monasteryfounded in the ninthcentury, an excellentexample of CatalanRomanesque. The same roadcontinues to Camprodon,where the twelfth centuryMonastery of Sant Pere maystill be admired. The C-153goes as far as the Coll d'Aresmountain pass on the borderbetween Spain and France.
Skiers will be delighted withthe winter resorts of theEastern Pyrenees, La Molina,Masella, Núria and Vallter2000 being of particularnote.
BarcelonaCosta de Garraf and Costa del Maresme
Within what is known as theCosta de Ponent lies the Costadel Garraf, the scarpedshoreline formed by the GarrafMountains and Sierra deComa-Roja as they drop intothe sea. On a hill belonging tothis mountain mass stands the
tenth century castle, the originof the town of Castelldefels,now a major summer holidayresort because of the beachesof fine sand so characteristic ofthe area.
After a hair-raising trip alongthe C-245 as it runs pastplunging ravines, the travellerreaches the town of Sitges,one of Catalonia's mostpopular holiday resorts, withfirst-class hotels and splendidpleasure harbours. While in thetown, the visitor should go to
31
The beach at Castelldefels
the old quarter to admire theChurches of Sant Bartomeuand Santa Tecla. Otherbuildings of interest includethe town hall, of nineteenthcentury neo-Gothicconstruction, and the palaceknown as Palau Maricel, withtouches of mediaeval,Renaissance and baroque art.Moreover, Sitges is knowninternationally for its fiestasand festivals (the InternationalFilm Festival and the SitgesInternational Theatre Festival).
The C-246 road goes to thethird of our recommendeddestinations: Vilanova i laGeltrú, the capital of thedistrict of Garraf. This seaward-looking town boasts a majorfishing port and beaches thatare a haven for lovers ofnautical sports.
To the other side of the city ofBarcelona lies the Costa deLlevant, more commonlyknown as the Costa delMaresme, stretching fromMontgat to the mouth of theRiver Tordera. The coast is linedby a chain of seafaring townsand villages which havebecome residential areas ascommunications withBarcelona are so good. Coarse-sanded beaches alternate withsmaller ones along a shorelinewhich is dotted with pleasantnooks attracting the touristwith culinary delights and allthe services he could wish for.
Starting our trip round thisarea in the south (the N-IIroad, A-19 motorway), we findfirst Montgat and then Alella,renowned for its wines. Thencomes El Masnou, a residentialtown endowed with a finepleasure harbour and beach.The N-II and the A-19 also leadto the town of Vilassar de Mar,with its lovely promenade.
The next stop will be Mataró, amajor industrial andcommercial centre where oneof the Costa del Maresmepleasure harbours is situated.Its most symbolic buildingsinclude the sixteenth centuryBasílica de Santa María deMataró, with a mediaeval/neo-Romanesque style facadewhich was added in the
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Church of Santa María. Mataró
nineteenth century. The townis also home to the TorreLlauder archaeological site,where there are still traces of aRoman villa from the first tothe third centuries A.D..
More towards the north is thetown of Caldes d'Estrac, wherethere is a noted thermalspring. Keeping to the N-II orA-19, one arrives in Arenys de
Mar, whose monuments andbeaches attract large numbersof holidaymakers in thesummer months. In the wakeof Arenis de Mar come thetowns of Canet, with superbmodernist buildings, and SanPol de Mar, where the mainfeature is the Hermitage ofSant Pau.
A few kilometres further on,we find Calella, the truetouristic capital of theMaresme area, overflowingwith pavement cafés,restaurants and a livelynightlife which, together withthe beaches, are an irresistibletemptation for the traveller.We end our trip along thiscoast at Palafolls, where it isworth visiting the ruins of thecastle built during the periodfrom the twelfth to thefifteenth centuries.
33
Costa de Garraf
Costadel M
ares
me
MAR
MEDIT
ERRÁNEO
Church of Sant Bartomeu and Santa Tecla. Sitges
The province’s inland area
The inland area of the provinceof Barcelona is bedecked withtowns and villages of historicalinterest. The visitor is stronglyrecommended to go to Vic,taking the N-152 road out ofBarcelona. Situated to the westof the grand reservoir, Pantanode Sau, the town possesses afine cathedral, the seat of anarchbishopric. The temple, builttowards the end of the
eighteenthcentury, is in
the neo-classical style and
one of its mainpoints of interest is the
interior murals by Josep M.Sert. The bishop's palace standsjust next to the cathedral.
The A-18 road will take thetraveller to Manresa, with itsmonumental approach formedby the cathedral or Basílica deSanta María and thearchitectural ensemble of SantaCova. Once the home of SanIgnacio de Loyola, Santa Cova isan important place of worshipfor Catholics.
From Manresa, taking the C-1410 road, we reach Cardona,where the castle's walledfortress, now a parador or statehotel, stands on a hill. Thefortified enclosure contains,among other interestingfeatures, the Church of SantVicenç de Cardona, an arrestingeleventh century Romanesquetemple. However, the town'schief sight was not created byman but by the mysteriousaction of nature and itsevolution: the famous Montañade Sal (mountain of salt) still
34
Sau Reservoir
stands today as proof of thewithdrawal of the sea in thearea no less than 65 millionyears ago.
An essential trip round theinterior of the province ofBarcelona inevitably covers twotowns that are linked by thecommon denominator ofwinegrowing: Vilafranca delPenedès and Sant Sadurníd'Anoia, known respectively asthe wine capital and the cavacapital. (Cava is a Catalan winesimilar to champagne).Vilafranca del Penedès is theleading town in the Penedésregion for the production andexport of wine. In addition, thetown is famous for itstraditional market, held everySaturday, when tradesmen flockto the centre to set up theirstalls under the arcades of themain squares. Sant Sadurniúd'Anoia ranks first in Spain forthe production of cava, withnearly 130 million bottles ayear. Naturally enough, one ofthe sights to be seen in thistown is the structural ensemblein which cava is made: CavesCodorniu has modernistpavilions designed by Puig iCadafalc, while theinternationally-famousFreixenet, established in 1889,comes from highly attractivepremises which date back tothe twenties, though they havesince been modernised.
Tarragona
Costa Daurada
Such is the name given to theCatalan shoreline inside theprovince of Tarragona, lyingbetween the towns of Cunitand Les Cases d'Alcanar. Thiscoastal strip, cleft by themouths of the Rivers Gaià,Francolí and Ebro, may bedescribed as a sequence ofrounded contours lined withinnumerable beaches trimmedby calm, shallow waters. Trueto its name (the golden coast),the landscape is flooded ingolden hues of fine sands andthe sun as it glows over thehorizon.
Leaving Cunit and theresidential estate of Segur deCalafell, the visitor isrecommended to take the
35
Church of San Martín. Altafulla
C-246 to Calafell, the first stopon our trip along the CostaDaurada. A pretty holidayresort, the town is admired forits tiny mediaeval streets,leading to the castle, and itseleventh century Romanesquechurch, housing remains offrescoes. Nevertheless, theinhabitants claim that thegreatest attraction is to befound when the sun goesdown majestically over analmost perfectly evenlandscape.
Having visited the Roman archknown as Arc de Berà, we takethe N-340 road toTorredembarra, where we can
visit the remarkableRenaissance castle and saunteralong one of the most popularbeaches on the Costa Daurada.Close at hand is the Romanvilla of Els Munts, from thefirst to the sixth centuries,which occupies a privilegedposition on a hill overlookingthe sea.
Our next destination will beAltafulla, with the Renaissancecastle of the Marquis ofTamarit. At this point, thegentle contours of the coastundergo a radical change. Thesame road takes us to Salou,
36
Nautical sports centre. Cambrils
west of the city of Tarragona.This seafaring town, which islike a great avenue steppingout to meet the waves, is theCosta Daurada's leadingholiday resort. Here, one mayenjoy a walk along the popularPaseo de Les Palmeres, whichunobtrusively runs along theedge of the famous LlevantBeach. Not far from Salou isthe theme park, Universal'sPort Aventura, which, eversince it was opened, has beenone of the main touristattractions on the CostaDaurada.
The N-340 road carries on toCambrils, a town with a well-earned reputation for goodeating and an impressive port,where there is a strong fishingtradition. The coastline fromhere to Delta de l'Ebre is anendless sequence of beacheswashed by limpid waters. Thisarea is home to major touristresorts such as Miami Platjaand L'Hospitalet de L'Infant,and others like L'Almadrava, inthe vicinity of which theCalafat Circuit, scene of topmotorcycling competitions, issituated.
Still going southward as wecontinue our trip along theCosta Daurada on the N-340, itis well worth calling atL'Ametlla de Mar, where thecoastal landscape changes once
more, with beaches of coarsersand and patches of vegetationreaching right down to theedge of the sea. It is a must tovisit the fishing port. Fromhere, we resume our coastaljourney to the beaches of ElPerelló and L'Ampolla, pausingto admire the stunning beautyof the area near Cap Roig.
Keeping to the N-340 as weleave Delta de l'Ebre behindus, we arrive in Les Casesd'Alcanar, where we can visitthe Catalan coastline'ssouthernmost pleasureharbour and fishing port. Thesouthern gateway toCatalonia, the town is ofparticular interest as it is thelocation of the Iberian villageof Moleta del Remei, officiallydeclared a historical-artisticmonument.
There is, however, far more tothe Costa Daurada than its
37
Tortosa
coastal towns. The visitor mustnot fail to visit some of theinland towns like Reus, takingthe N-340 or the N-420. Here,there is a superb sightseeingarea, consisting, for instance,of the buildings in Plaça dePrim and the Casa Navàs, a fineexample of modernism.
Tortosa should also be includedon the itinerary. Situated nearthe mouth of the River Ebro,the town possesses remarkablearchitectural works in themediaeval, Renaissance,baroque and modernist styles.It is an official historical-artisticensemble and some of thebuildings, like the castle,Castillo de la Suda, now a statehotel or parador, are nationalmonuments.
The visitor is also advised tofollow the Ruta del Císter, orthe Route of the CistercianOrder, which was responsiblefor Catalonia's majormonasterial reform. TheCistercian monks created anarchitectural stylecharacterised by austerity ofform, endowing Cataloniawith three of theirmasterpieces: the monasteriesat Poblet (a world heritagesite), Santes Creus and, inLleida, Vallbona de lesMonges.
May these examples suffice toshow that the Costa Dauradahas far more to offer than itsshores and beaches. The touristcan just as easily have a beachholiday as he can visit thearea's fascinating artisticmonuments. The exquisitebeauty of the coastallandscape is enhanced by abackcloth of historical gemswhich are a sightseer's delight.
www.coastadaurada.org
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Monastery of Poblet
Lleida
The Western Pyreneesand Val d’Aran
The westernmost part of thePyrenean mountain range isone of the most attractiveplaces in the province ofLleida. In this area, deepvalleys lie below toweringpeaks, forming an astonishinglandscape spattered with tinyvillages where it is bitterly coldin winter. For those wishing tofind out more, two itinerariesare recommended: one runs tothe north of the AigüestortesNational Park and Sant MauriciLake, accessible from Espot,while the other runs to thesouth of the park and isaccessible from Boi.
Both routes start at the townof La Seu d'Urgell, with itstwelfth century RomanesqueCathedral of Santa Maria. Onreaching Sort along the N-260,we begin the northernitinerary by taking the C-147 asfar as Esterri d'Àneu, a lovelyrural spot. Behind us lie thevalleys, Vall de Cardos and VallFerrera, watched from on highby the famous Pica d'Estats,with an altitude of 3,145 m..
With Vall d'Àneu and the townof Espot to the south, we takethe C-142 to cross Port de laBonaigua, stopping to admire
39
Sant Maurici Lake
the breathtaking views of thearea. Passing the tourist resortof Baqueira, the visitor findshimself in Val d'Aran, where hemay stop off at towns likeSalardú, Arties and the valley'smain town, Vielha. All thesetowns, of a prettiness whichhas to be seen to be believed,heighten the valley's intensegreenness even further withtheir houses of granite andslate. As the winter holidayresorts of Baqueira Beret andSuper Espot are not far away,skiers are a common sight inthese places.
Val d'Aran, locked insidemountains nearly 3,000 mhigh, covers a surface area ofjust over 600 km2. The onlyPyrenean valley with anAtlantic climate, itsdistinguishing feature is itslanguage, Aranese, which
bears close similarities toGascon. The area'sautochthonous cuisine isinfluenced by the valley'sclimatology, with wholesomedishes such as the olla aranesa(a form of stew) and othersmade from the valley's ownproduce.
40
Vielha
The second recommendeditinerary starts at Sort, on theN-260, passing by the NogueraPallaresa River valley, anexcellent place for canoeingand rafting. We then arrive inLa Pobla de Segur, known as"the gateway to thePyrenees". Further south isTremp, the municipal district towhich the Sant AntoniReservoir, scene of manynautical sports, belongs. The N-260 carries on from La Poblade Segur to El Pont de Suert,the meeting point of variousPyrenean valleys. From here,the N-230 continues up thePyrenees to take us into Vald'Aran. It is better, however, toturn off at El Pont de Suert,taking the L-500 to visit Val deBoi. This exceptionallyattractive enclave conceals oneof the most precious legacies
of Catalan Romanesque: theChurches of Sant Climent andSanta Maria de Taüll, amongothers.
The two routes come to an endin the town of Bossòst, whereVal d'Aran's most outstandingRomanesque church, built inthe twelfth century, standsproud.
The Romanesque churches ofVall de Boi have been declared aworld heritage site by UNESCO.
As the visitor will see, theWestern Pyrenees provide anopportunity to see a superbdisplay of nature and itswonders, further embellished,if this be possible, by an artisticheritage of great value.
www.lleidatur.es
41
Bossòst
Leisure and shows
SportsThe extraordinarygeographical diversity ofCatalonia, with a coastalstrip bordering an inlandof high mountains, makesfor a wide range ofpossibilities for sportslovers of all kinds.
In winter, Catalonia meanssnow and skiing. In thePyrenean area, the visitor willfind a good number of resortswhere he can practice alpine-style skiing, with first-rateslopes and infrastructures. InGirona, the Pyrenean resortsare: La Masella, one of themost tempting because of itsvariety of slopes; La Molina,Spain's pioneer skiing resort;Vall de Núria, situated in anunexampled landscape; andVallter 2000, Catalonia'seasternmost skiing resort.
As for the Lleida part of thePyrenees, the skier may choosefrom among the Super Espotresort, situated on one of theaccess routes to ParqueNacional de Aigüestores y Lagode Sant Maurici; Boi-Taüll,surrounded by a number ofinteresting Romanesquechurches; Port Ainé, with alarge services infrastructure;Baqueira Beret, a favouritespot with long-distance skiers;and Port del Comte, which hasbecome a highly popular, busyresort as it is within easydistance of Barcelona.
During the springtime, thePyrenees and Catalonia'slittoral and pre-littoralmountainous regions blossominto a myriad of unspeakablybeautiful nooks and crannieswhere the visitor may comeinto contact with nature in itspurest state. Furthermore,Catalonia is an ideal place forhikers, with a network of walksmeasuring over 3,000 km.
There are about 30 golfcourses in Catalonia, noted forthe quality of the turf and thewide variety of rounds(Federación Catalana de Golf
93 414 52 62).
When the summer comes, theCatalan shoreline overflowswith possibilities for nauticalsports at the many pleasure
42
Ski resort. La Molina
harbours situated all along thecoast. Sailing, water-skiing,scuba diving, aquatic motorsports... , the visitor takes hischoice and Catalonia providesthe right setting.
Marinas and theme parksMarinas:*Acuatic ParadísSitges (Barcelona)*Isla FantasíaVilassar de Dalt (Barcelona)*Aqua Brava. Cadaqués road.Roses (Girona)*AquadiverPlatja d'Aro (Girona)*Water World. Lloret-Vidreresroad. Lloret de Mar (Girona)*Marineland. Malgrat-Palafollsroad (Barcelona)*Aquapark. Salou (Tarragona)
Theme parks:*Universal's Port AventuraA-7, run-off 35, N-340, km. 2,Vila-Seca (Tarragona)
902 40 44 40www.portaventura.es
*Catalunya en MiniaturaTorrelles de Llobregat(Barcelona). Officially declaredas being of national touristicinterest, the park features 170 miniature monumentsrepresenting the whole ofCatalonia. 93 689 09 60
Museums andart galleriesBarcelona:• Thyssen-BorneniszaCollectionMonasterio de Pedralbes
93 280 14 34• Barcelona Contemporary Art Gallery (MACBA) Plaça dels Àngels, 1
93 412 08 10• Catalonia National ArtGallery (MNAC)Palacio Nacional. Parque deMontjuïc. 93 423 71 99• Antoni Tàpies FoundationAragón, 55. 93 487 03 15• Joan Miró FoundationMontjuïc. 93 329 19 08
Girona:• Catalonia-EmpúriesArchaeological MuseumL'Escala. 972 77 02 08
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Port Aventura. Tarragona
Golf course
• Gala-Salvador Dalí Foundation:Dali Theatre-MuseumFigueres. 972 67 75 00• Gala-Dalí HouseMuseum/CastlePúbol (La Pera) 972 48 82 11• Salvador Dalí House/MuseumPortlligat (Cadaqués)
972 25 80 63
Lleida:• Archaeological Museum ofthe Institute of Lleida StudiesPlaza Catedral
973 27 15 00• Cathedral MuseumAlmodí Vell
973 26 94 70
Tarragona:• History MuseumCasa Castellarnau
977 24 22 20• National ArchaeologicalMuseum
977 23 62 06
Night lifeWhen the sun goes down,Catalonia is oblivious of all careand woe. The main capital citiesare packed with discotheques,cinemas, theatres, pavementcafés and so on, not forgettingthe coastal towns, wheredrinking, dancing and othernight-time amusements go ontill dawn. Moreover, Cataloniahas the added attraction ofthree casinos, one at Castell dePeralada, another in Lloret andthe Gran Casino de Barcelona.All in all, there is a wide range ofentertainments which will testthe visitor's endurance if hewants to combine daytimetourism with a wild night life.
Popular fiestasOne of the key dates onCatalonia's festive calendar isApril 23, Día de Sant Jordi(St. George's Day), thecommunity's patron saint. Onthis day, in keeping with atouching tradition which hasnow spread to other countries,couples exchange books androses. The other big eventtakes place on September 11when Catalonia's nationalfiesta, La Diada, is held,consisting of the community'sown symbolic activities:castellers (human towers arebuilt in defiance of the law ofgravity) and the sardana, thetraditional Catalan dance.
44
Dalí Theatre-Museum. Figueres
Other events which should notbe missed include La Patum deBerga, on the day of CorpusChristi; the dance, Dansa de laMort de Verges (EasterThursday); the Sitges carnival;the St. John's Day bonfires;and the fiestas de La Mercè,the patron saint of Barcelona,held in September. In additionto these festivities, each town,village and city district holdsits own Festa Major (mainfestive day) in honour of itspatron saint.
Shopping and handicraftsCatalonia has a longstandingpottery tradition, especially inthe Ebro Basin, with theceramics of Miravet and Verdú,including, amongst otherarticles, a wide variety of botijos(earthenware pitchers withspout and handle). Also of greatrenown are household goodsfrom El Vendrell and ceramicsfrom La Bisbal.
In almost every town, there is aweekly market where the visitormay buy typical local productssuch as sweetmeats, home-madesausages and popular Catalanhandicrafts. Apart from first-classwines and cavas, Cataloniaproduces superb olive oil, withappellations d'origine such as LesGarrigues and Siurana. Othertypical products includeanchovies (L'Escala and Ratafías)and liqueurs generouslyflavoured with herbs and fruits.It could almost be said that, inCatalonia, there are as manyvarieties of these liqueurs asthere are villages.
Food and drinkIf there is one thing that all visitorsto Catalonia agree about, it is thathere, good eating is a prioritymatter. Using only prime-qualityproduce, Catalonian cuisine, whichhas been subject to so manyinfluences, is sophisticated,flavoursome and varied. Withspecialities to satisfy diners of alltastes, gastronomy is based on thenatural resources deriving from theregion's twofold nature: its coastand its mountains. As a result, fishand seafood are always fresh andsausages and meats are of the bestquality. This entirely Mediterraneancuisine features delectable colddishes like esqueixada (desalted codsalad), escalivada (roast aubergines,onions and red peppers) and xató(curly endive, cod and anchovies);
45
Castellers. Barcelona
and wholesome dishes such as theappetising escudella (a hen, vealand ham stock), served with carnd'olla (meat used in making thestock); broad beans Catalan-style;and cargols a la llauna (a snailpottage).
There is also a wide choice ofmeats and fish: the succulentrabbit with snails or withsamfaina (lightly fried peppers,tomatoes, onions andaubergine); chicken with lobster;barbecued fish and seafood; andthe typical suquet de peix (a fishdish prepared with spicy sauce);not to mention the endless list ofrice dishes, such as rossejat andblack rice (with squid's ink).
Catalonian dishes are oftenaccompanied by one of themany sauces peculiar to theregion's cuisine: fish in romescosauce (made from dried redpeppers and chopped almonds),typical of Tarragona; andbarbecued meat with all i oli(made with garlic and oil).
There can be no doubt that themost popular dishes in Catalangastronomy are butifarra amb
mongetes (typical Catalansausage with beans) and pa ambtomàquet (bread and tomatoes),which may be served with thefinest of sausages (raw or cured),typical of the area of Vic.Sausages include: bull, butifarra(white or black), longaniza (localspiced sausage) and fuet. Thecountry ham should also besavoured. Another well-knowndish is calçotada, made fromcalçots (a variety of springonion), which are roasted anddipped in salvitxada (a variationon romesco sauce). When itcomes to desserts andsweetmeats, one is spoilt forchoice by delights such as cremacatalana (a form of custardcovered in caramelised sugar);mel i mató (cottage cheese withlashings of honey); panellets (atypical Easter sweetmeat); pa depessic (an exceptionally spongycake); carquinyolis (wherealmonds are the mainingredient); and mona de Pascua(a cake creatively decorated withchocolate figures).
In addition, Catalonia is one ofSpain's great winegrowingregions, with nine appellationsd'origine: Alella,Empordà-CostaBrava, Conca deBarberà, Costers delSegre, Penedès,Priorat, Tarragona,Terra Alta and Pla deBages. While he is in
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this land of good wines, thevisitor should try, among others,the young whites; the crianzawhites (those that haveundergone the statutory periodof maturation in oak barrels);rosés, traditional red wines,rancios, or heavily oxidised wines,not to mention the sweetgarnacha wine. The range, whichis so vast that it suits all tastes,includes wines made from foreigngrapes like cabernet, chardonnayand merlot.
A description of Catalan wineswould not be complete withoutthe superb, world-famous cavas,top-quality sparkling winesproduced in accordance with thetraditional champagne method.When in Catalonia, the travellershould make the most of his stayby visiting some of the cellarswhere this wine is made, not onlyfor their unquestionablearchitectural interest but alsobecause he will have the chanceto watch the cava productionprocess step by step. Anyonevisiting the area is stronglyrecommended to go to themodernist cellars of the CostaDaurada, where he will findunusual constructions by CésarMartinell, blending art with asense of practicality suited to theiruse. The best examples ofMartinell's work are to be foundin El Pinell de Brai, Falset,Gandesa, L'Espluga de Francolíand Sarral.USEFUL INFORMATION
By roadThe main access roads toCatalonia are the A7, theMediterranean motorway,and the A-2, the north-eastmotorway. Access is alsopossible by the N-II (Madrid-LaJonquera); from Andorra, bythe N-145; from Aragón bythe N-260 or the N-420; andfrom the AutonomousCommunity of Valencia, bythe N-340 or the N-232: aperfect road network linkingup the towns of Cataluña.
SpasThe benefits of Catalonia’splentiful medicinal mineralwaters may be enjoyed at anyof the spas, almost idyllicplaces not only for thetreatment of ailments but alsofor the pure and simplepleasure of feeling betterwithin oneself in a setting ofpeace and quet. Situated innature’s realms, in gentlecountryside by the sea or amidthe valleys of the Pyrenees,thermal springs are yetanother good reason forvisiting Catalonia
Spa Association93 218 36 99
www.balneario.org
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TOURIST INFORMATIONInternational code: 34
Tourist Information TURESPAÑA:901 300 600
www.tourspain.es
Turisme de Barcelona93 423 18 00
Patronato de Turismo de laDiputación de Tarragona
977 23 03 12
Patronato Provincial de Turismo deLleida 973 24 54 08
Patronato de Turismo de Girona972 20 84 01
TOURIST OFFICESBarcelona: Centro de InformaciónTurística de Cataluña. Passeig deGràcia, 107 93 238 40 00Barcelona AirportTerminal A 93 478 47 04Terminal B 93 478 05 65Plaça Catalunya, 17, subway
906 30 12 82Estación de Sants. Plaça PaïsosCatalans 906 30 12 82
Girona: Rambla Libertat, 1 972 41 94 19
RENFE (railway station)972 21 62 96
A-7 motorway. La Jonqueratoolbooth. 972 55 43 54, 972 55 46 42
Lleida: Avenida Madrid, 36973 27 09 97
Turismo Lleida 902 101 110
Tarragona: Fortuny, 4977 23 34 15
Rambla, 46 977 23 22 08Reus Airport 977 77 22 04Vila-Seca. Parc de Port Aventura
977 38 46 56The main towns in Catalonia havetheir own tourist offices.
ACCOMMODATIONBooking offices
902 10 37 72 (Lleida)972 22 43 44 (Girona)
www.hoteles.com (Barcelona)
State Hotels/ParadoresBooking office:Requena, 3. Madrid 28013
91 516 66 66, fax 91 516 66 57www.parador.es
Parador de Cardona (Barcelona)93 869 12 75, fax 93 869 16 36
Parador de Vic (Barcelona)Paraje de Bac de Sau
93 812 23 23, fax 93 812 23 68Parador de La Seu d’Urgell (Lleida)Sant Domenec, 6
973 35 20 00, fax 973 35 23 09Parador de Artíes (Lleida)Carretera de Baqueira Beret
973 64 08 01, fax 973 64 10 01Parador de Viella (Lleida)Carretera de Túnel
973 64 01 00, fax 973 64 11 00Parador de Aiguablava (Girona)Platja d’Aiguablava. Begur
972 62 21 62, fax 972 62 21 66Parador de Tortosa (Tarragona)Castillo de la Suda
977 44 44 50, fax 977 44 44 58
Camp sitesInformation: Federación Catalanade Camping Caravaning
972 20 86 67
Agri-tourismwww.agronet.org/agroturisme
GENERAL INFORMATIONEmergencies 112Emergency medical service 061National Police 091Autonomous Community PoliceMossos d’Esquadra 93 300 91 91Civil Guard 062
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Airports:El Prat (Barcelona) 93 298 38 38Girona-Costa Brava (Girona)
972 18 66 00Reus (Tarragona) 977 77 98 00By train:RENFE Information and bookingoffice 902 24 02 02www.renfe.esBy boat:Compañía Trasmediterránea
93 317 63 11 / 902 45 46 45Maritime Station 93 306 88 00
SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATIONOFFICES ABROADCANADA. TorontoTOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN2 Bloor Street West Suite 3402Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2
1416/961 31 31fax 1416/961 19 92e-mail: [email protected] BRITAIN. LondonSPANISH TOURIST OFFICE22-23 Manchester SquareLONDON W1M 5AP
44207/ 486 80 77fax 44207/ 486 80 34e-mail: [email protected]. TokyoTOURIST OFFICE OF SPAINDaini Toranomon Denki Bldg.4F3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-KuTOKYO-105
813/34 32 61 41fax 813/34 32 61 44e-mail: [email protected]. MoscowSPANISH TOURIST OFFICETverskaya - 16/2 Business Center“Galeria Aktor” 6th floor Moscov 103009
7095/ 935 83 99fax 7095/ 935 83 96e-mail: [email protected]. SingaporeTOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN541 Orchard Road. Liat Tower # 09-04238881 Singapore
657/ 37 30 08fax 657/ 37 31 73e-mail: [email protected] STATES OF AMERICA Los AngelesTOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960Beverly Hills, California 90211
1(323) 658 71 88-658 71 92fax 1(323) 658 10 61e-mail: [email protected]
CHICAGOTOURIST OFFICE OF SPAINWater Tower Place, suite 915 East. 845North Michigan Avenuer. Chicago,Ilinois 60-611
1(312) 642 19 92fax 1(312) 642 98 17e-mail: [email protected] OFFICE OF SPAIN1221 Brickell Avenue. Miami, Florida 33131
1(305) 358 19 92fax 1(305) 358 82 23e-mail: [email protected] YORKTOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN666 Fifth Avenue 35 th floorNew York, New York 10103
1(212) 265 88 22fax 1(212) 265 88 64e-mail: [email protected]
EMBASSIES IN MADRIDCanada: Nuñez de Barlboa, 35
91 431 43 00, fax 91 431 23 67Great Britain: Fernando El Santo, 6
91 319 02 00, fax 91 308 10 33Japan: Serrano, 109
91 590 76 00, fax 91 590 13 21United States of America: Serrano, 75
91 587 22 00, fax 91 587 23 03Russia: Velazquez, 155
91 562 22 64, fax 91 562 97 12
Text:Sebastiá Barrufet Rial
Translation:Hillary Dyke
Photographs:Turespaña Picture Library
Graphic design:PH Color, S.A.
Published by© Turespaña
Secretaría de Estado de Comercio y Turismo
Ministerio de Economia
Printed by:GAEZ, S.A.
D. L.: M.41751-2001NIPO: 380-01-026-0
Printed in Spain
First edition
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MINISTERIO DE ECONOMÍA
SECRETARÍA DEESTADO DE COMERCIO Y TURISMOSECRETARÍA GENERAL DE TURISMO
TURESPAÑA
