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Date of Nature Reserve declaration:7th April 2006Date of PORN approval:7th April 2006

Municipalities inside the Reserve:Vistabella del Maestrat, Villahermosa del Río,Xodos

Penyagolosa Nature Reserve, which lies in anarea covering the municipalities of Vistabella delMaestrat, Xodos and Villahermosa del Río, con-stitutes a geographical feature of major impor-tance and a cultural landmark with very deeproots in Valencian tradition. Its 1,094.45hectares include San Joan de Penyagolosa PublicUtility Mountain Area and its highest peak (at analtitude of 1814 m.) is considered as the ceilingof the Valencian Community par excellence.

The Penyagolosa Massif, in the last foothills ofthe Iberian System and the Coastal-Catalanrange, forms part of a crossroads of geological,biological, cultural and social settings. The com-bination of limestone and siliceous substratesalong with its Mediterranean climate with con-tinental influence gives it great diversity asregards the botanical species found here.

Considered a holy and magic mountain for theValencians, right at its heart you will find the SanJoan de Penyagolosa Hermitage, the presentneo-classical origin building being a centre forpilgrimages from the villages around the massif.This transition land between the inland villagesand more coastal settlements permeates thecharacter of its inhabitants, used to the hard-ships meant by its climate.

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Sant Joan de Penyagolosa

History

The origin of the name “Penyagolosa” has beenlost in time, but it would seem to have stemmedfrom the evolution of the term pinna (mountain)and lucosa (wooded), as stated in certain docu-ments such as the one about the Donation ofCulla to the Order of the Temple in 1213.

There are a great deal of remains to be foundvouching for the different peoples who lived inand passed through Penyagolosa; Iberian settle-ments, traces of Roman roads in the surroundingsof the reserve, etc..

Special mention should be given to Sant Joan dePenyagolosa hermitage. It was a former Cenobiteconvent and is made up of a 17th century neoclas-sical style architectural complex, built on earlierruins. Every year events centred around theChapel are held, the best-known of these beingthe ancient procession of “Els Pelegrins de lesUseres”. Other pilgrimages setting out from thevillages surrounding the massif are those ofVistabella, Culla, Xodos and PuertoMingalvo.

The heritage of buildings connected with the tra-ditional rural way of life, centring on the “masos”farmsteads and connecting buildings (barns,threshing floors, yards, etc.) is no less important,forming as it does an aspect of great historical andcultural value. Dry stone constructions such aswalls and “casetes” outbuildings form part of thecustomary landscape in this area and its sur-roundings.

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highly interesting formations of Pyrenean oak(Quercus pyrenaica).

The Order dated 16th November 1998 of theValencian Environmental Ministry declared theBarranc de la Pegunta ravine a plant micro-reserve, to foster the conservation of a zone of atleast 20 ha., in which there is a coexistence ofrare, endemic or threatened botanical speciessuch as the snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis), the“lechuguilla del bosque” (Hieracium valentinum),holly (Ilex aquifolium) and yew (Taxus baccata).

Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis)

Vegetation

The great biodiversity found in the Penyagolosamassif is due to the different limestone andsiliceous substrates and through the combinationof continental and Mediterranean climates. Thevegetation growing in the nature reserve variesaccording to the altitude and geology. In the lowerparts the black pine (Pinus nigra) grows, in thesunny areas with a siliceous substrate you will findthe Mediterranean or maritime pine (Pinuspinaster) and in shady and higher areas there is apredominance of the Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris).

Formations of the thuriferous juniper (Juniperusthurifera) can also be seen in many parts. Oneshould stress the presence of Valencian oak(Quercus faginea), yew (Taxus baccata) and some

Pine near the top of the Penyagolosa

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“Parnassiusapollo”

“Graellsiaisabelae”

Special mention should be given to the greatestValencian population of the southern bent-wingbat (Miniopterus schreibersii). The wall lizard(Podarcis muralis) has one of the biggest popula-tion in Valencian territory in Penyagolosa. Someof the significant invertebrates are the night but-terfly (Graellsia isabelae) and Apollo butterfly(Parnassius apollo).

Fauna

Some of the most significant fauna associated withthis extremely rich ecosystem are its birds, withlarge day and night-time-hunting birds of prey,such as the golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos),Bonelli’s eagle (Hieraetus fasciatus) and the eagleowl (Bubo bubo). There is also a significant pres-ence of the crossbill (Loxia curvirrostra), great spot-ted woodpecker (Dendrocopos major) and the red-billed chough (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax).

Some of the more important mammals that should bementioned are the wild cat (Felix silvestris), wild goat(Capra pyrenaica), genet (Genetta genetta), badger(Meles meles) and roe deer (Capreolus capreolus).

Wild goat (Capra pyrenaica)

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Sant Joan dePenyagolosa

Lloma del Mig

casa forestal

laCarbonera

Pinar Oscur

Cingles de Marcén

LlomaBelart

Font Nova dela Pegunta

Mas deSanaüja

els Xalets

el Corralico

1552,6

Lloma Velà II

Lloma Velà I

T. M. de Vistabelladel Maestrazgo

T. M. de Xodos

1506

1503,8

1486,9

1

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caseta decontrol

Stop 1:After twenty minutes’ walk you will reach FontNova, which is actually the overflow of the Fontde la Pegunta spring, that is higher up along thepath. In the space between these two springs onecan appreciate the change in the plant life: Scotspine, Saint Lucy cherry (Prunus mahaleb), ivy(Hedera helix), white thorn, yew, holly, maple(Acer opalus), crab apple (Malus sylvestris), dogrose and snowdrops. It was precisely this part ofthe ravine which was protected by means of theMicro-reserve declaration in 1998 in order toensure its preservation.

Go on along the route for ten minutes to a forkwhere the ravine splits into two, the right handbeing known as Barranc del Forn and the left one,which you should take, heading towards theBanyadera.

Stop 2:A few metres further up take a short rest to enjoythe peace and quiet of this magic wood. Allowyour senses to enjoy the clean fresh smell of thewood and the sounds of the woodpecker or thelittle owls (Athene noctua) on cool summerevenings.

After this stop the walk goes on to lead you toBanyadera in just under half an hour. From hereyou can either go back along the same path or bythe forest track.

Route 1: “Barranc de la Pegunta”

Time required: way up, 1 hourDifficulty: medium-lowAscent: 150 m

This route takes in the Pegunta ravine, one of theenclaves with greatest biodiversity in the park andthe Valencian Community.

We start the trail on the esplanade by the nurs-ery, taking the ravine which runs parallel to theforest path until crossing this. From here on thepath starts to slope gently as it heads into a thickpine wood.

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el Corralico

La BanyaderaLa Teixera

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Penyagolosa

Fuentedel Paso

Font Trobada

Nevera delPenyagolosa

T. M. de Vistabelladel Maestrazgo

1503,8

you head out of the woody zone finding vegetationadapted to a colder climate and poor soils: Savinjuniper (Juniperus sabina) hedgehog broom(Erinaceum anthyllis) and “Herba de Penyagolosa”(Erodium celtibericum). From here the top is just astone’s throw away, though it will still have yousweating a little on the last stretch!

Stop 2:After reaching the top you will enjoy one of thebest panoramic views of the ValencianCommunity possible. On clear days one can easi-ly make out El Montgó and the high Sierras de laMarina, the Columbrete Islands and the EbroDelta. The way down is by the same route, keep-ing to the path to prevent any soil erosion in thisfragile and singular spot.

Penyagolosa

Route 2: Up the Peak

Time required: 45 minutesDifficulty: medium-highAscent: 300 m

The way up to the peak starts from El Corralico.You can get up this far by La Pegunta ravine(green route) or by the forest tracks whicharrive here from Sant Joan and Xodos. We startfrom a Scots pine wood by a fairly steeply climb-ing zigzagging path.

Stop 1:Half way up you will find a building that you can useas a shelter in the event of bad weather. From hereyou will have gained height and the first farmsteadscan be glimpsed over the mountain. Little by little

Sant Joan dePenyagolosa

Lloma del Mig

caseta decontrol

zona acampadaEl Planàs

a Vistabella del M

aestrat (8

km) --->

a Xodos --->

la Lloma Plana

casa forestal

torre vigilanciaforestal

el Rodesnar

Mas Roig

apriscolaCarbonera

PinarOscur

Cingles de Marcén

LlomaBelart

Mas deSanaüja

elPortellàs

Marcén

Mas deMor

Mas de lesXiquetes

MasBenages

Mas de Llacho de losCollados

Mas de laCambreta

els Xalets

Roca delMigdia

el Corralico

Penyagolosa

laBanyadera

Costera del Baró

Ventisquersde Fraga

Pla dela Creu

Roca delFalcó

Roca de l’Aguila

Moleta de Gargant

Mas de Caixó

Mas de Montoliu

Mas del Torreter

Mas de les Penyes

Gargant

1552,6

Lloma Vela II

Lloma Vela I

T. M. deVillahermosa

del Río

T. M. deVistabella delMaestrazgo

T. M. deXodos

Font de la Pegunta

Font de la Cambreta

Fuente de las Mozas

Font Trobada

Cuevasdel Sastre

1506

1623

1503,8

1486,9

1478,5

1462,1

1476,5

1363,8

1239,4

1814

Tossal del Masde Montoliu

1347,5

0 500250 2.000 m1.000

BarrancO

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<-- a Villahermosa del Rio (por Puertomingalvo)

BarrancTeixera

Barrancde

laPegunta

Barranc Avellanar

Tossal de Fraga

Cantal deMiquelet

1529,6

Fuente del Paso

La Golosilla

1583

E: 1/30.000

road

cave

snow well

information centre

geodesic vertex

peak

viewing point

camping area

recreation area

hermitage

refuge

fountain

Route Up the Peak

Route Barranc de la Pegunta

Route Around the Peak

constructions

ravine

administrative limit

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la Cambreta

Roca delMigdia

Penyagolosa

Fuente del Paso

Font Trobada

Cantal deMiquelet

Nevera delPenyagolosa

el Corralico

Costera del Baró

Ventisquersde Fraga

Tossal deFraga

T. M. deVillahermosa del Río Cuevas

del Sastre

1486,9

1478,5

1814

1529,6

LaGolosilla

1583

T. M. de Vistabelladel Maestrazgo

T. M. deXodos

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“Masia de la Cambreta”

heading 70 m. into the wood to make the firststop.

Stop 1:Here you come to the Icehouse, a 17th centurybuilding which was used as a store for snow,which, after changing into ice, was supplied to thevillages of la Plana de Castelló for making softdrinks and for preserving fish.

Go back to the track and a few metres beforereaching this, take the path which drops down theSW slope of the peak. You will find numerousbush species, such as the dog rose (Rosa canina)and white thorn (Crataegus monogyna). Along thisway, and without leaving the path, in fifteen min-utes you will come to a forest track.

Rout 3: Around the Peak

Time required: 3hDifficulty: mediumAscent: 160m

This route enables you to observe the majesticsouthern walls of the Penyagolosa peak.

The route starts at the base of the peak orCorralico. Start by walking along a track leadingto Mas de la Cambreta farmstead (right), whichruns without too much of a slope in a south-westdirection. When you get to this point it drops vis-ibly between Mediterranean pines (Pinuspinaster), which indicate a change in the composi-tion of the soil, with a markedly siliceous nature.When the forest track takes its first zigzag downtowards the Carbo, this is the point to leave it,

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South slope of the Penyagolosa

be able to shelter from summer storms, snow orthe powerful midday sun. The path goes on with-out requiring too much effort as far as the hill.

Stop 5:From the Pla de la Creu hill there is a beautifulpanoramic view with Xodos in the background.This hill represents one of the linguistic frontiersin our area, the north slope (Mas de Torreter)being a Valencian-speaking area and CastilianSpanish being spoken from the southern slope(Mas de Collado). From here take the PRV-79which leads up to the Ventisquero de Fraga andfollowing the signs by a path parallel to the foresttrack you will come again to the Corralico goingthrough the Font Trobada.

Stop 2:After taking this track you will soon come to thelovely Fuente del Paso spring, whose watersemerge from the interior of a terrace through adeep recess in the stone wall. From this point youcan see the Renovell farmstead surrounded byfarmland, the traces of the people who lived herein days gone by.

In five minutes you will come to the end of thetrack, where two paths then appear. Take the oneon the left, which will lead you gently up to theCantal de Miquelet, a broad pass which links thePenyagolosa with La Golosilla and provides a newpanorama.

Stop 3:After a pleasant drop down for five minutes youwill reach a point at which one can only feel over-whelmed by the majestic 200 m. southern wall ofthe Penyagolosa, striped with the red and ochretones of the different limestone strata formingthis. From here the path goes gently up amongstjunipers (Juniperus oxicedrus), Phoenician junipers(Juniperus phoenicea), thuriferous juniper(Juniperus thurifera), holm-oaks (Quercus ilex),black pines (Pinus nigra) and aromatic plants suchas thyme (Thymus vulgaris), winter savory(Satureja montana) and spike lavender (Lavandulalatifolia).

After forty minutes walk you will find a sturdy drystone terrace wall which will accompany youdown to the foot of a cutting which provides two“balmas” or shelters.

Stop 4:These “balmas”, known as the “Cuevas delSastre”, are used as shelters for cattle. They arenatural refuges closed off with a dry stone wall to

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given to the Iberian village located on the Tossaldel Marinet (1467 m.) with some impressivepanoramic views.

In Villahermosa del Rio the collection of 14th cen-tury medieval Gothic paintings, by Morella painterGillen Ferrer, is well worth looking at, in the inte-rior of its church, which is located in the villagesquare. And in the rest of the municipal area thefarmsteads known as Masias del Río Carbo (whichare reached by the GR7), the Caserío de Bibiojand San Bartolomé Hermitage. Going up the Altisthere are some lovely views of the village.

Villahermosa del Río

Interesting places

Penyagolosa is the epicentre of different places ofinterest beyond the bounds of the nature reserve.In the municipal area of Vistabella there is aninteresting biological formation of the Pla (a karstformation polje), the river Montlleó ravine,Roman bridge and Boi castle close to SantBertomé chapel and inside the village NuestraSeñora de la Asunción renaissance style church.

The village of Xodos, built at the top of animmense rock, is in its own right a place of greatlandscape significance. In the centre you can visitthe remains of its ancient Arab castle, and scat-tered around the municipal area you will find tra-ditional farmsteads in a good state of repair, someof these still inhabited. Special mention should be

Xodos

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Cuisine

The pig slaughter has been the basic sustenanceof the inland villages of Castellón since ancienttimes. Today this is still done each year, now a rit-ual in its own right. This slaughter produces main-ly hams, black sausage, sausages and chorizosausages. Another characteristic dish in thereserve’s towns and villages is meat done onembers, mainly lamb.

Another well known dish is the traditional “tombet”,based on meat and often accompanied by mountainsnails, mushrooms (very plentiful in the area) andgreens. Another important dish is the “olla” stew,typical of this area and which tends to include theproducts stemming from the pig slaughter.

Lactarius deliciosus

Accommodation

Apart from the accommodation in the villages ofVistabella del Maestrat, Xodos and Villahermosadel Rio, there are several hostals and “casasrurales” accommodation around the park.Penyagolosa has a camping site and three camps.

Applications for camping for groups of over tenpersons organised by associations, bodies andorganisations should be made to the territorialservices of the Valencian Territory and HousingDepartment.

For one or more persons, up to at most ten,these permits are issued directly at the controlstation located at the entry to the reserve.

Typical farmhouse of the Penyagolosa

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Vistabella del Maestrat

Neither should one forget the delicious “rovellon”mushrooms and the exquisite truffles, particularlyabundant in the villages around the reserve.

Vistabella del MaestratThe typical dishes of this town are tombet, perol,rice omelette, principi, and sweets such as cas-caranya, pastissos de cabello de ángel or boniato,the egg or anise rollets (pastry rings) and cócs ensal i oli.

Villahermosa del RioThe sardine pastries with oil and salt and“adobeo” pork and potatoes are along with thecold meats the typical dishes of this village, notforgetting its cornmeal porridge, stews and “higasalbardadas” (white fig dessert).

XodosMeat done on the embers and a variety of steware the typical specialities of this village. In SanAntoni sweet cakes known as Prim are made.

How To Get Here

By carFrom Villahermosa del RioFrom Villahermosa take the CV175 toPuertomingalvo in the province of Teruel. Beforereaching the village in front of the cemetery a for-est road leaves for San Joan de Penyagolosa, andtwo kilometres from the village towardsMosqueruela you will find another track in bettercondition which has access to the provincethrough a tunnel. Twelve kilometres after this youwill come to a crossroads and on the right thehermitage is signposted.

From XodosAt the exit from the village towards Vistabella,500 m at left a forest track in good condition leadsto Pla de la Creu. From here there is a fork, whichon one side leads to Sant Joan de Penyagolosa andon the other to Banyadera at the base of thepeak.

From Vistabella del MaestratFrom Vistabella take the CV 170, passing the vil-lage and two kilometres from this there is a cross-roads where you will find the sign indicating SanJoan de Penyagolosa.

Observes the plantswithout destroying them

Observes the animals withoutbothering them

On footThe Penyagolosa massif is criss-crossed by pathsand tracks. The two main tracks which convergehere and more specifically at the Sant Joan her-mitage are the GR-7 and the GR- 33.

GR7: This long-distance track which covers theValencian Community crosses the Penyagolosamassif from north to south connecting the villageof Vistabella with Villahermosa del Rio throughthe park and going through the river Carboravine.

GR33 or Sender de la Lluna Plena: This com-municates the coastal counties with the inlandones until joining up with the GR7 at Sant Joan dePenyagolosa. Part of this track and specificallyfrom the Useres to the hermitage (going throughthe village of Xodos), corresponds to the tradi-tional route taken by the “Pelegrins de les Useres”pilgrims on their annual procession.

Respects the way and donot take short-cuts

Rules

Take care of culturalheritage

Deposits the garbage in themost near container

No driving motor vehicles out-side the tracks

If you do noise or speak fort,you will get lost the sounds ofthe forest

The dog, take it always tied

Take care of springs, don'tpollute its

Camping is allow only inautorized areas

Do not ignite bonfires, do notsmoke, breathes pure air