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Paul Poiret: King ofPaul Poiret: King ofFashion (1879Fashion (1879 -- 1944)1944)

It is neither by restoring life to theIt is neither by restoring life to thecolor scheme, nor by launchingcolor scheme, nor by launching

new styles that I rendered thenew styles that I rendered thegreatest to my epoch.greatest to my epoch.

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Paul PoiretPaul Poiret

It was in my inspirationIt was in my inspirationof artists, in myof artists, in my

dressing of theatricaldressing of theatrical

pieces, in mypieces, in myassimilating andassimilating and

response to newresponse to new

ideas, that I servedideas, that I served

the public of my day.the public of my day.

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He must love life, love the arts, and loveHe must love life, love the arts, and love

women. He must have an unquenchablewomen. He must have an unquenchablethirst for beauty and selfthirst for beauty and self--realization.realization.

Born April 8Born April 8thth 1879, in Paris1879, in ParisParents: owned shopParents: owned shop

making woolen clothmaking woolen cloth

Dad forced him to work asDad forced him to work asan errand boy foran errand boy for

umbrella maker:umbrella maker:

Jacques Doucet, fromJacques Doucet, from

whom he learnedwhom he learneddressmaker crafts, and adressmaker crafts, and a

sophisticated lifestylesophisticated lifestyle

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Paul PoiretPaul Poiret

Used wooden dollsUsed wooden dolls

from his sisters tofrom his sisters todesign dressesdesign dresses

1901 employed by1901 employed by

WorthWorthMadame Poiret givesMadame Poiret gives

him 50,000 francshim 50,000 francs

11stst Fashion salon inFashion salon in19031903

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Paul PoiretPaul PoiretPaul thoughtPaul thought

there wasthere wasnothing morenothing moreimportant thanimportant than

externalexternalappearance.appearance.

I might haveI might haveforgotten toforgotten towash my neckwash my necknow and then,now and then,

but I changedbut I changedmy white collarmy white collarevery day.every day.

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Paul PoiretPaul PoiretBecameBecamewellwell--

known,known,everybodyeverybodyin Parisin Parisattendedattendedhis partieshis parties

MarriedMarriedDeniseDenise

TouletTouletLater hadLater hadfivefive

childrenchildren

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Paul PoiretPaul Poiret

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Contributions to fashionContributions to fashionHobble skirtHobble skirt--1920 (woman1920 (womandidnt follow)didnt follow)

4 ways of pantaloon gown4 ways of pantaloon gown--19111911

Oriental mode/Oriental mode/ orientalismorientalism

Turbans with feathersTurbans with feathers

Prints (designed by real artist)Prints (designed by real artist)

Mantle wrapsMantle wraps

Traveling, theater, and daytimeTraveling, theater, and daytimecoatscoats

Evening gowns, afternoon &Evening gowns, afternoon &daytime dressesdaytime dresses

Theater costumes (JosephineTheater costumes (JosephineBaker)Baker)

Concocted vibrant huesConcocted vibrant hues

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Contributions to fashionContributions to fashionMinaret skirtsMinaret skirts

KimonoKimono--sleeved tunicssleeved tunicsExotic embroideryExotic embroidery

Barbaric jewelryBarbaric jewelry

Eye makeEye make--upupFitted tubeFitted tube

Dress LA VogueDress LA Vogue

Replaced the corset withReplaced the corset withelastic braselastic bras

Illusion of bare legsIllusion of bare legs

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ROSINEROSINE

11stst couturier withcouturier with

perfume lineperfume lineRosineRosine 19221922

(daughter who died)(daughter who died)

Fans (advertising)Fans (advertising)

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MARTINEMARTINESchool for craftsSchool for craftsdecorative artsdecorative arts

Martine 1911Martine 1911Interior designsInterior designs--

wallpaper, tables,wallpaper, tables,

vases, dressers, etcvases, dressers, etcLeft his aesthetic markLeft his aesthetic mark

on everything aroundon everything around

him and on everythinghim and on everythinghe could sell, fromhe could sell, from

accessories to interioraccessories to interior

designdesign

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History continued..History continued..Syndicated DefenseSyndicated Defense

de la Grande Couturede la Grande Couture

FrancaiseFrancaise11stst real designer ofreal designer of

the 20the 20thth centurycentury

Called up to battleCalled up to battlefront for 4 yearsfront for 4 years

Returned to Paris forReturned to Paris for

fall collection, butfall collection, butRosineRosine died so hedied so he

abandoned the ideaabandoned the idea

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Paul PoiretPaul PoiretAfter WWI, Bellepoque ends

He falls out of fashion,

failing to keep up withthe times

Chanel and the roaring

20s usher in a new lookPoiret becomes a theaterset designer, marginally

employed and diesvirtually penniless in1944

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Influences/ AccomplishmentsInfluences/ AccomplishmentsCorsetlessCorsetless liberated womenliberated women

Oriental and Middle Eastern ethnic motifs andOriental and Middle Eastern ethnic motifs andsilhouettessilhouettes

Lampshade skirtsLampshade skirts

A new genre of printmakingA new genre of printmaking

Journal des Dames et des ModesJournal des Dames et des ModesPrinted designs straight onto the finest silk (note VersacePrinted designs straight onto the finest silk (note Versaceon Thursday)on Thursday)

11stst of the fashion celebritiesof the fashion celebrities

Everything he touched turned to headlinesEverything he touched turned to headlinesfreed the breast and shackled the legsfreed the breast and shackled the legs

Advocated the adoption of the brassiereAdvocated the adoption of the brassiere

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Paul PoiretPaul Poiret

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Paul PoiretPaul Poiret