Panama

Regis St Louis, Steve Fallon, Carolyn McCarthy

p112de AzueroPenínsula

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Welcome to Panama . . . . 4Panama Map . . . . . . . . . . . 6Panama’s Top 15 . . . . . . . . 8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 16First Time Panama . . . . . 18What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 20If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Month by Month . . . . . . . 23Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Panama Outdoors . . . . . . 34Regions at a Glance . . . . 39

PANAMA CITY . . . . . . 44History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46Activities & Courses . . . . . 54Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55Festivals & Events . . . . . . . 55Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 66Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 67Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68

PANAMÁ PROVINCE . .73Around Panama City . . . 76Panama Canal . . . . . . . . . . . 76Canal Zone . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78Pacific Islands . . . . . . . . 82Isla Taboga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82Archipiélago de las Perlas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85Pacific Coast . . . . . . . . . . 89La Chorrera . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89Parque Nacional Altos de Campana . . . . . . . 90Punta Chame . . . . . . . . . . . 90Pacific Coast Beaches . . . . 91

COCLÉ PROVINCE . . .94El Valle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96Santa Clara . . . . . . . . . . . . 103Farallón & Playa Blanca . . . . . . . . . 104Antón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Penonomé . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106La Pintada . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108Reserva Privada Távida . . .109Parque Nacional Omar Torrijos . . . . . . . . . . 109Natá . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110Aguadulce . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111

PENÍNSULA DE AZUERO . . . . . . . .112Chitré . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113Around Chitré . . . . . . . . . . 118Interior Azuero . . . . . . . . . 119La Villa de Los Santos . . . 120Road to Las Tablas . . . . . . 122Guararé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122La Enea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Las Tablas . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124Pedasí . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126Refugio de Vida Silvestre Isla Iguana . . . . 129Azuero Coastline . . . . . . . 130

VERAGUAS PROVINCE . . . . . . . . 135Santiago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137San Francisco . . . . . . . . . . 138Santa Fé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138Santa Catalina . . . . . . . . . 141Parque Nacional Coiba . . . 147Isla Cébaco . . . . . . . . . . . . 150The Sunset Coast . . . . . . . 150

CHIRIQUÍ PROVINCE . . . . . . . . 153Lowlands . . . . . . . . . . . . 156David . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156Playa Barqueta . . . . . . . . . 160Golfo de Chiriquí . . . . . . . 160Playa Las Lajas . . . . . . . . . 161David to Boquete . . . . . . . 163Highlands . . . . . . . . . . . . 164Boquete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164Parque Nacional Volcán Barú . . . . . . . . . . . . 173Volcán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Santa Clara . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Bambito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Cerro Punta . . . . . . . . . . . . 177

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Contents

Guadalupe . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Parque Internacional La Amistad (Las Nubes) . . 179The Fortuna Road . . . . . . . 180

BOCAS DEL TORO PROVINCE . . . . . . . . .181Archipiélago de Bocas del Toro . . . . . . . 184Isla Colón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184Isla Carenero . . . . . . . . . . . 199Isla Solarte . . . . . . . . . . . .200Isla San Cristóbal & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Isla Bastimentos . . . . . . . 202Mainland . . . . . . . . . . . . 206Almirante . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206Changuinola . . . . . . . . . . . 207Humedal de San San Pond Sak . . . . . .208Parque Internacional La Amistad (Wekso) . . . . .209Las Delicias . . . . . . . . . . . . 211Bosque Protector de Palo Seco . . . . . . . . . . . 211

COLÓN PROVINCE . . .212Colón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214Around Colón . . . . . . . . . . 216Área Protegida San Lorenzo . . . . . . . . . . . 217Portobelo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219Puerto Lindo . . . . . . . . . . . 225Isla Grande . . . . . . . . . . . . 225

COMARCA DE GUNA YALA . . . . . . . 227History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229Lifestyle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .230Economy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231Gardi (Cartí) Islands & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235

Cayos Limones & Chicheme . . . . . . . . . . . . 236Río Sidra (Mamartupu & Urgandi) & Western Islands . . . . . . 237Cayos Los Grullos, Holandeses & Ordupuquip . . . . . . . . . . 238Aggwanusadub (Corazón de Jesús), Yandup (Narganá) & Central Islands . . . . . . . 239Uggubseni (Playón Chico) & Eastern Islands . . . . . . .240Assudub (Achutupu) & Uaguinega . . . . . . . . . . .240The Road to Gardi (Cartí) . . . . . . . . . . . 241

DARIÉN PROVINCE . . . . . . . . 242History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244The Road to Yaviza . . . . 246Lago Bayano . . . . . . . . . . . 246Ipetí & Around . . . . . . . . . 247Puerto Lara . . . . . . . . . . . . 247Metetí . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248Yaviza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249Parque Nacional Darién . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250El Real . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250Pijibasal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250Rancho Frío . . . . . . . . . . . . 251Interior Darién . . . . . . . 251La Palma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251Reserva Natural Punta Patiño . . . . . . . . . . . 252Mogué . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252Río Sambú . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252Sambú . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253Pacific Coast . . . . . . . . . 253Jaqué & Around . . . . . . . . 253Playa Muerto . . . . . . . . . . . 254

Panama Today . . . . . . . . 256History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258The Panamanian Way of Life . . . . . . . . . . . 266Music . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274Land & Wildlife . . . . . . . 278

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 288Transportation . . . . . . . 298Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 303Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 319

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURESOff the Beaten Track Map . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Panama Outdoors . . . . . 34Panamá Viejo Walking Tour . . . . . . . . . . 52Guna Language Guide . . . . . . 232

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Plan Your Trip

Bocas delToro Town

PANAMACITY

COSTARICA

PA C I F I C

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For a taste of tropical Panama, start with the hyper-charged capital. Explore the city and see colonial ruins and landmarks such as the famous Panama Canal while getting a dose of rainforest adventure. Top it off with a chilled Caribbean getaway.

Imbibe the rush of Panama City. In Panamá Viejo, admire Spain’s first Pacific settlement, laid waste in a massive pirate raid. Pedal along the coastal beltway Cinta Costera to historic Casco Viejo,

with hip plaza restaurants, rooftop bars, galleries and 18th-century cathedrals.

Take a day trip to Miraflores Locks to watch mammoth ships make their way through the canal. Visit nearby rainforest in the wildlife-rich Parque Nacional Soberanía, a favorite of birdwatchers. Or kayak on Lago Gatún alongside howl-er monkeys and sunbathing crocodiles.

From Panama City, fly to Bocas del Toro Town for four days of Caribbean relaxation and snorkeling among colorful coral reefs. Explore Isla Colón by cruiser

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bike and go on a pub crawl in quirky Bo-cas Town.

Boat out to the idyllic thatched resorts at Isla Bastimentos, take a chocolate tour on the Bocas del Toro mainland or visit indigenous groups on other islands through a community-tourism initiative.

Fly back to the capital for a last call in the city’s sleek bars and clubs.

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Whether you’re traveling on buses or with your own wheels, hit the Interamericana for a route that alternates between scenic beaches and highland cloud forests.

Spend your first few days exploring Panama City. Then head west along the Interamericana, where you can stop for a leisurely seafood lunch and explore the string of beaches along the Pa-cific coast. Overnight at Mamallena Ecolodge in the cool, sculpted foothills. The next stop is El Valle, a mountain retreat surrounded by lush cloud forests and green peaks. Return to the Interamericana, visiting Coclé’s roadside attractions, then detour for Santa Fé, a tiny highland town amid sparkling rivers and gor-geous waterfalls. On your way out, browse the gorgeous Iglesia de San Francisco de la Mon-taña outside Santa Fé.

For surf time, backtrack to the Interamerica-na and detour to Santa Catalina. Soak up the laid-back vibe at thatched restaurants and join the local surfing kids nailing the waves on the town beach. Another very good reason to stop here is to connect to Parque Nacional Coiba, a far-flung, pristine island in a vast marine park. Snorkeling, diving and hiking are all top notch; although there’s minimal infrastructure, it’s worth staying a few days.

Head via David to the popular highland retreat of Boquete in Chiriquí. Go hiking or rafting or take a canopy tour and fill up on mountain-grown coffee. Birdwatchers can stalk the resplendent quetzal. Choose from one of the fine-dining options and sleep soundly in clean mountain air.

If you have your own wheels, take the paved road to Volcán, a very scenic shortcut. Those without wheels can bus via David to Cerro Pun-ta. Retreat to a charming rainforest cabin before hitting the trail to hike the Sendero Los Quet-zales, a stunning trail through wildlife-rich cloud forest. If traveling by bus, you can loop back to Boquete on this hike. If adventure still calls, from Cerro Punta you can access the trails of Parque Internacional La Amistad. Take a guide – the Panamanian side of this international park is virtually undeveloped and largely unexplored.

To save time, you can fly back to Panama City from David.

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If you’re itching to get off the beaten path, this seafarer route will bring you to the less touristed Península de Azuero on the Pacific coast, and on to the Afro-Caribbean heartland and the furthest reaches of Guna Yala (and possibly even Colombia).

Start in the capital of Panama City. From there, take a ride in the luxury train along the historical Panama Railroad through the Canal Zone to Colón to admire the Unesco World Heritage Site of Fuerte San Lorenzo. While in the area, check out the Panama Canal ex-pansion at the nearby Agua Clara Visitors Center. Using Portobelo as your base, explore 16th-century Spanish forts, boat out to deserted island beaches, scuba dive or attend a festival.

Return to Panama City to travel to the Península de Azuero by bus. From time to time traditional festivals take over the streets of these tiny colonial towns. If your visit co-incides, join the revelers! Otherwise, check out workshops where regional artisans craft Panama hats, lace dresses and colorful diablo (devil) masks. Make your base Pedasí for lei-surely trips to the beach and a friendly village atmosphere. Move on to the more remote Playa Venao to enjoy a pretty half-moon bay, meet other travelers and ride some waves without the crowds. If turtles are hatching, it’s worth mak-ing the pilgrimage to Isla Cañas.

When you’re ready, return to the capital and take a 4WD or flight to Guna Yala, a string of hundreds of pristine islands ruled by Guna. Thatched huts on dozens of islands run the gamut, from bare bones to creature comforts, with meals and excursions always included. Snorkel and swim to your heart’s content, or charter a sailboat for the grand tour. Highlights include snorkeling the reefs and wrecks of the Cayos Holandeses and meeting locals on the tiny community islands. If you are heading on to South America – and bent on adventure – consider a three- to four-day sailing or boat trip to Colombia.

Otherwise, end your trip by returning to Panama City, where you can check out the world-class BioMuseo and have a night out in Casco Viejo.

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Off the Beaten Track: Panama

experience remote beaches, great surfing and community turtle tours on the sunset Coast: the western side of Península de azuero facing the Golfo de Montijo and the Pacific Ocean. (p150)

a highland gem, this cowboy town is all about mountain panoramas. Go tubing in the cool river, hike to lush waterfalls and swimming holes or jump in the saddle to explore. (p138)

sun, surf and art are the draws of this out-of-the-way Pacific island with community art projects inspired by resident installation artists. (p142)

With extraordinary marine wildlife, Panama’s newest Unesco World Heritage site was once its most infamous island prison. Far flung and pristine, this sparsely visited park offers excellent diving and wildlife watching. (p147)

SUNSET COAST

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tour a chocolate farm, search for endangered manatees or travel by dugout canoe to little-known naso villages. alternatively trek through the rugged but beautiful Parque Internacional La amistad. (p206)

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Call it the ultimate adventure. a visit to Central america's most biodiverse park requires authorization and an experienced guide, but no self-respecting adventurer can forgo the jungles of the Darién. (p250)

PARQUE NACIONALDARIÉN

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Hop into a lancha that will ferry you through the mangrove to the island that time forgot and where olive ridley sea turtles nest in droves from July to november. (p133)

ISLA CAÑAS

On the seldom visited Pacific coast of Darién Province, with pounding waves and empty beaches, this non-tourist destination has a vibrant emberá community and offers the chance to spot the elusive harpy eagle. (p254)

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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310310

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:Allen Hale, Camilo Consuegra, Christin Moser, Johan Claus, Jon Hanna, Joost Smekens, Leen Cuypers, Manuela Arigoni, Mike Vitiello, Mulle Harbort, Robin Vermoesen, Sharon Reeves, Susan Cohen, Wendy Girard

WRITER THANKSSteve FallonMuchísimas gracias to the folk who offered as-sistance, ideas and/or hospitality along the way, including fellow traveller/guide Juan José Calvache in the Darién, Reggie & Cherie Flagg in Panama City, and the boys on the boats in the San Blás islands – Adam Riley, Fabio Carino and Brett Dickey. Y a mi querido Panamá – ¡el país que unió las dos mitades del mundo! (And to my dear Panama – the country that united the world’s two halves!) As always, my share is dedicated to my now spouse, Michael Rothschild.

Carolyn McCarthyMany thanks go out to the Bethels for accompanying me on part of my journey and for Daniel and Marta for providing some much needed refuge. I am also grateful to Rick Morales, Beatriz Schmidt, Annie Young and Carla Rankin for sharing their insights

and contacts. Many others provided assistance in the form of homemade hot sauce, police intervention and karaoke. Lastly, my thanks to the isthmus for offering up one more great, sparkling adventure. ¡Hasta la próxima!

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’; Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: three-toed sloth mother and young, Isla Barro Colorado, Christian Ziegler/Getty ©

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

311BEH

IND TH

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THIS BOOKThis 8th edition of Lonely Planet’s Panama guidebook was curated by Regis St Louis, and researched and written by Steve Fallon and Carolyn McCarthy. The previ-ous edition was also written by Steve and Carolyn. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Alicia Johnson

Senior Product Editor Saralinda Turner

Regional Senior Cartographer Corey Hutchison

Product Editor Vicky Smith

Book Designer Aomi Ito

Cartographer Anthony Phelan

Assisting Editors Michelle Bennett, Andrea Dobbin, Bruce Evans, Gabrielle Innes, Kate James

Assisting Book Designer Jessica Rose

Cover Researcher Naomi Parker

Thanks to Bailey Freeman, Sandie Kestell, Amy Lynch

312

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccessible travel 288accommodations 21, 288,

see also individual locations

language 303-4Achudup (Isla Demar Achu)

238Achutupu 240activities 22, 23-5, 34-8,

see also individual activities, individual locations

adventure sports 22Boquete 165-6, 167El Valle 97, 99Isla Bastimentos 203Panama Canal 77-8Pedasí 126Playa Venao 130-1Sunset Coast 151Volcán 175

Aggwanusadub (Corazón de Jesús) 239-40

Agua Clara Visitors Center 216

Aguadulce 111air travel 298, 300airlines 298Almirante 206-7animals, see wildlifeAntón 105archaeological sites see also

forts, ruinsLa Piedra Pintada 96La Piedra Pintada de

Caldera 163Parita 118Parque Arqueológico

Petroglifo El Nancito 163

Parque Nacional Sarigua 118-19

Sitio Barriles 174-5Archipiélago de Bocas

del Toro 12, 184-206, 186-7, 13

Archipiélago de las Perlas 85-9

Archipiélago de San Blas 14, 14

Área Protegida San Lorenzo 217-19

Arias de Ávila, Pedro 259-60art retreats

Isla Gobernadora 142art galleries, see museums

& galleriesarts 274-7, see also

literature, music, painting

arts centersAcademia de Costumbres

y Tradiciones Gabriel Villarreal 122

Assudub (Achutupu) 240-1Assudubu Bibbi (Isla Perro

Chico) 237Azuero Earth Project 127

BBaha’i House of Worship 54Bambito 177Banedup (Islas Fragatas) 236baseball 269bathrooms 296beaches 21

Boca del Drago 196-7Isla Bastimentos 202-3Isla Contadora 86Pacific Coast 91-3, 91Playa Barqueta 160Playa Blanca

(Coclé Province ) 104-5Playa Blanca

(Colón Province) 220

Playa Bluff 197-9Playa Cambutal 133Playa Chame 90Playa Ciruelo 130Playa Coronado 92-3Playa El Istmito 198Playa El Palmar 93Playa El Salado 111Playa Guánico 133Playa La Garita 134Playa Larga 202Playa Las Lajas 161-3Playa Muerto 254Playa Polo 202Playa Punch 198Playa Toro 134Playa Venao 130-3Red Frog Beach 202Wizard Beach 203

bicycling, see cyclingBioMuseo 52, 30birds 280-6, 2, 15, see also

individual speciesbirdwatching 36, 280-6

Área Silvestre de Narganá 241

Boquete 165Comarca de Guna Yala 241Darién Province 252El Valle 99Isla Colón 184-5Panama Rainforest

Discovery Center 80Parque Nacional Altos de

Campana 90Parque Nacional Coiba

147, 149Parque Nacional Omar

Torrijos 110Parque Nacional

Soberanía 79Parque Natural

Metropolitano 51, 54Playa El Agallito 120Santa Catalina 143

Black Christ 222Festival of the Black

Christ 25, 222Blades, Rubén 272-3boardwalks

Paseo las Bóvedas 50boat travel 300-1boat trips 34

Bocas del Toro Town 189Comarca de Guna Yala

231-3Panama Canal 78

Boca del Drago 196-7Bocas del Toro Province 41,

181-211, 182-3, 2, 37accommodations 181climate 181food 181highlights 182-3, 182-3history 184surfing 197, 37travel seasons 181

Bocas del Toro Province mainland 206-11

Bocas del Toro Town 185-96, 190

accommodations 189-93activities 185-9courses 189drinking & nightlife 194-5entertainment 195festivals & events 189food 193-4shopping 195sights 185tourist information 195tours 189travel to/from 195-6

books 256, 274-6arts 274, 275ecology 279, 280, 281history 258, 259, 261,

264, 265people 268

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

313IN

DEX B

-D Boquete 12, 164-73, 166,

2, 12accommodations 167-70activities 164-5courses 165drinking & nightlife 172entertainment 172festivals & events 167food 170-2shopping 172sights 164tourist information 172tours 165-7travel to/from 172travel within 172-3

border crossings 299-300Colombia 236, 247Costa Rica 160

Bosque Protector de Palo Seco 211

bridgesPuente del Matadero 52Puente del Rey 53

budgeting 17bus tours

Panama City 55bus travel 300, 301bush dogs 281business hours 294butterflies 51, 96

Ccacao 189, 27Campana 89Canal Zone 78-81canals

Gatún Locks 216Panama Canal 8, 76-8,

261-2, 77, 9Snyder (Changuinola)

Canal 207car travel 301

rental 301 Carnaval 23

Chitré 113Isla Grande 225Las Tablas 124Panama City 55Penonomé 106

Carretera Nacional 122Casco Viejo 10, 47-51,

56-8, 62-4, 66-7, 56, 10

cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals

cave tours 246-7

cavesBayano Caves 246La Gruta (Bocas del Toro

Town) 185Nivida Bat Cave 202

Cayo Crawl 201Cayo Swan 201Cayos Chicheme 236-7Cayos Holandeses 238-9Cayos Limones 236-7Cayos Los Grullos 238-9Cayos Ordupuquip 238-9Cayos Zapatillas 201cell phiones 295-6Cerro Punta 177-8Cerro Tute 138-9ceviche 29Changuinola 207-8cheese 89chikungunya 291children, travel with 288

Panama City 50Chiriquí Province 41, 153-

80, 154-5accommodations 153climate 153Highlands 164-80highlights 154-5, 154-5history 156Lowlands 156-64surfing 162travel seasons 153

Chitré 113, 116-18, 116churches & cathedrals

Basilica Mayor San Juan Bautista 106

Basílica Menor Santiago Apóstol 110-11

Capilla de San Juan de Dios 220

Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción 53

Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús 49

Iglesia de La Merced 49Iglesia de la Sagrada

Familia 156Iglesia de San Felipe

220Iglesia de San Francisco

de la Montaña 138Iglesia de San José

(Casco Viejo) 47Iglesia de San José

(Panamá Viejo) 53Iglesia de San Pedro 82

Iglesia de Santo Domingo de Guzmán 119

Iglesia San Atanasio 121Iglesia Santa Librada

124Iglesia y Convento de la

Compañía de Jesús 53Iglesia y Convento de la

Concepción 52Iglesia y Convento de La

Merced 52Iglesia y Convento de

San Francisco 52Iglesia y Convento de

Santo Domingo 49, 53climate 16, 23-5, 289, see

also individual regionscloud forests

Bosque Protector de Palo Seco 211

Coclé Province 13, 40, 94-111, 95

accommodations 94climate 94food 94highlights 95, 95travel seasons 94

coffee 170, 12coffee tours

Boquete 166-7, 167Santa Clara 176Santa Fé 140Volcán 175

Colombia, travel to/from 236, 247

Colón 214-16Colón Province 42, 212-26,

213accommodations 212climate 212food 212highlights 213, 213surfing 224travel seasons 212

Columbus, Christopher 259Comarca de Guna Yala 42,

227-41, 228, 14, 22accommodations 227,

230, 231activities 231climate 227culture 229-30economy 231festivals 233food 231Guna language 232

highlights 228, 228history 229lifestyle 230-1off the beaten track 227responsible travel 229shopping 233-4tourist information 234tours 231-3travel seasons 227travel to/from 234travel within 234-5

Congo art 277consulates 289-90cooking courses 221-2Corbiski 235Costa Rica, border

crossings 160, 208courses, see cooking

courses, dancing courses, language courses, workshops

Cristo Negro 222Festival del Cristo Negro

25, 222 culture 266-71

Comarca de Guna Yala 229-30

Darién Province 244-5currency 16cycling 35-6, 300

Bocas del Toro Town 188Isla Colón 184Panama City 55

Ddams 285-6dancing courses 222dangers, see safetyDarién Gap 249Darién Province 42,

242-54, 243, see also Parque Nacional Darién

accommodations 242climate 242culture 244-5food 242highlights 243, 243history 244responsible travel 244tourist information

245-6tours 245travel seasons 242travel to/from 246travel within 246

314

IND

EX D-H

David 156-60, 157day trips 158

de Bastidas, Rodrigo 259debt trading 282deforestation 283-6dengue fever 291development 285-6Día de Independencia

25, 25Digir Dubu (Isla Tigre)

239-40diving 35, 10

Bocas del Toro Town 185-8

Isla Bastimentos 203Isla Contadora 86Isla Taboga 83Panama City 55Parque Nacional Coiba

148-9Pedasí 126Portobelo 221responsible diving 36Santa Catalina 142-3

Dolphin Bay 201Drake, Sir Francis 219drinking & nightlife 21,

see also individual locations

drinking water 185, 291driving, see car traveldriving tours 167

Eeconomy 256-7

Comarca de Guna Yala 231

ecotourismAzuero Earth Project 127Canopy Tower Ecolodge

80Eco Venao 132EcoCircuitos 78Isla Barro Colorado

Tour 81Isla Cañas 134Mamallena Ecolodge 88Panama Rainforest

Discovery Center 80Parque Nacional Coiba

149Santa Catalina 143Santa Fé 140

El Metro 302El Real 250El Salto de Las Palmas 138El Valle 96-103, 98-9,

5, 13accommodations 99-101activities 97-9food 101-2history 96shopping 102sights 96-7tourist information 102tours 99travel to/from 102-3travel within 103

electricity 289Eloguadub (Isla Tortuguita)

237 embassies 289-90Emberá people 79, 244,

244-5, 267, 268-71communities 79

emergencies 17language 306

environment 278-86environmental issues

283-6environmental

organizations 286etiquette 19exchange rates 17

Ffactories

Azucarera Nacional Ingenio Santa Rosa (sugar) 111

Carta Vieja Rum Factory (rum) 158

Cigarros Joyas de Panama (cigars) 108

Farallón 104-5Festival de Diablos y

Congos 11, 23, 222Festival del Cristo Negro

25, 222Festival of Nogagope

25, 240Festival of the Black Christ

25, 222festivals & events 11, 23-5,

11, see also individual festivals

Antón 105Bocas del Toro Town

189Boquete 167

Chitré 113-16Comarca de Guna Yala

233David 156Digir Dubu (Isla Tigre)

240Guararé 123Isla Bastimentos 203Isla Grande 225Isla Taboga 83La Chorrera 90La Villa de Los Santos

120, 121 Las Tablas 124Macaracas 120Ocú 119Panama City 55-6Pedasí 126Penonomé 106Portobelo 222, 11

Fiesta de Corpus Christi 23, 122, 24

film 256, 274-6fishing 38

Bambito 177Parque Nacional

Soberanía 79-80Playa Venao 130Santa Catalina 143

folk music 273food 290, see also

individual locationsceviche 29cheese 89language 304-6

fortsFort Gulick 218Fuerte de San Gerónimo

249Fuerte Espinar 218Fuerte San Diego 221Fuerte San Felipe 221Fuerte San Jerónimo

221Fuerte San Lorenzo 217,

218 (Colón Province)Fuerte San Lorenzo

(Darién Province) 251

Fuerte Santiago 221Parque Nacional

Portobelo 221Fortuna Rd 180frogs 97, 281Fuerte San Lorenzo 217,

218

Ggalleries, see museums

& galleriesGamboa 81Gardi (Cartí) 235Gatún Dam 217gay travelers 293geisha coffee 170golden frogs 97Golfo de Chiriquí 160-1Guadalupe 178-9Guararé 122-3Guna people 229-31, 268,

see also Comarca de Guna Yala

language 232

Hhandicrafts 247, 275-6

Casa Cultural 247La Arena 118

harpy eagles 252hawksbill turtles 209, 254,

280, 29health 290-3

insurance 290-1hepatitis A 291hepatitis B 291Highlands, the 13, 13hiking 34-5

Boquete 164-5El Valle 97-9, 13Isla Colón 184Isla Grande 225Parque Internacional

La Amistad (Las Nubes) 179

Parque Internacional La Amistad (Wekso) 210

Parque Nacional Coiba 147-8

Parque Nacional Darién 251

Parque Nacional Omar Torrijos 110

Parque Nacional Soberanía 78-9

Parque Nacional Volcán Barú 173, 174

Reserva Privada Távida 109

safety 295Santa Clara (Chiriquí

Province) 176Santa Fé 140Transpanama Trail 35

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

315IN

DEX H

-N

historic buildingsAmerican Trade Hall 51 Casa Alarcón 53Palacio de las Garzas 50Real Aduana de

Portobelo 220history 258-65, see also

individual locationsfirst peoples 258independence from

Spain 261Panama Canal 261-2Panama Canal Railway

261-2Spanish colonization

259-61US relations 262-4

hitching 301holidays 294Holy Ghost orchids 100horseback riding

El Valle 97Santa Fé 140

hot springsLos Pozos de Caldera

163Pozos de Galique 156Pozos Termales

El Valle 97Humedal de San San Pond

Sak 208-9hummingbirds 80, 99,

278, 2

IIglesia de San Francisco de

la Montaña 138Iglesia de San Pedro 82immigration 298indigenous peoples 268-9

Emberá people 79, 244, 244-5, 267, 268-71

Guna people 229-31, 232, 268

Naso people 210, 269-71

Ngöbe-Buglé people 118, 178, 268

responsible travel 229, 244

Wounaan people 79, 244-5, 267, 268-71

insurance 293health 290-1

internet access 293internet resources 17,

256, 262, 263, 270, 275, 282

Ipetí 247Isla Barro Colorado

180-1, 22Isla Bastimentos 202-6Isla Cañas 133-4Isla Carenero 197,

199-200Isla Casaya 89Isla Casayeta 89Isla Cébaco 150Isla Chicheme Grande

236 Isla Colón 184-99Isla Contadora 86-9, 87Isla de Coiba 286Isla Demar Achu 238Isla El Morro 82Isla FragatasIsla Gobernadora 142Isla Grande 225-6Isla Naranjo Chico 238Isla Perro Chico 237Isla San Cristóbal 201Isla San José 89Isla Solarte 200-1Isla Taboga 82-4Isla Tigre 239-40Isla Tortuguita 237itineraries 26-33, 26, 28,

31, 32-3

Jjaguars 36, 37Jaqué 253-4jazz 273junta de embarre 123

Kkayaking

Comarca de Guna Yala 233

Isla Colón 184Parque Nacional Coiba

149

LLa Arena 118La Chorrera 89-90La Enea 123-4La Palma 251-2La Peregrina 83La Pintada 108-9La Playita 130La Villa de Los Santos

120-2

Lago Bayano 246-7lakes 217landmarks

Castillo Inspíración 196Fuerte Amador Resort &

Marina 54language courses

Bocas del Toro Town 189

Boquete 165Panama City 55

languages 16, 156Guna 232Spanish 303-9

Las Delicias 211Las Tablas 124-6, 125legal matters 293leishmaniasis 291leptospirosis 291-5lesbian travelers 293LGBTIQ+ travelers 293literature 274-6

MMacaracas 120macaws 36malaria 292maps 294marine parks & reserves

Parque Nacional Marino Golfo de Chiriquí 160

Parque Nacional Marino Isla Bastimentos 202

marketsCeramica La Peña 137Friday Market (Volcán)

176Mercado Artesanal 102Mercado de Artesanías

Coclé 108Mercado de Artesanías

La Pintada 108Mercado de Mariscos

62Mercado Municipal

(Boquete) 171Mercado Nacional de

Artesanías 69Mercado Público 106Mercado (Santa Fé) 141Tuesday Market

(Boquete) 172measures 290media 270-1medical services 290-1Meseta Chorcha 163

Metetí 248mining 284-6Mogué 252molas 233-4, 276-7, 19money 16, 17, 19, 294monkeys 36, 279, 15Monumento Natural Isla

Barro Colorado 80-1Morgan, Henry 46, 85motorcycle travel 301multiculturalism 269-71Museo de Arte Contem-

poráneo 46museums & galleries

BioMuseo 52, 30Centro Natural Punta

Culebra 52-4Explora Center of

Science & Arts 54Instituto Nacional de

Cultura 51Miraflores Visitors

Center 76Museo Afro-Antilleano

46-7Museo Belisario Porras

124Museo Casa de Manuel F

Zárate 123Museo de Arte

Contemporáneo 46Museo de Arte Religioso

Colonial 50Museo de Ciencias

Naturales 47Museo de Herrera Fabio

Rodriquez 113Museo de Historia de

Panamá 50Museo de la Cultura

Guna 235Museo de la

Nacionalidad 121Museo de la Sal y

Azúcar 111Museo de Penonomé

106Museo del Canal

Interoceánico 47Museo Histórico Padre

José Noto 97music 272-3

NNarasgandup Bibbi (Isla

Naranjo Chico) 238Naso people 210, 269-71

communities 210

316

IND

EX N-P

Natá 110-11national parks & reserves

20, 281-3Área Protegida San

Lorenzo 217-19Área Silvestre Protegida

Lagunas de Volcán 174

Bosque Protector de Palo Seco 211

Finca Dracula 178Monumento Natural Isla

Barro Colorado 80-1Panama Rainforest

Discovery Center 80Parque Internacional La

Amistad (Las Nubes) 179-80

Parque Internacional La Amistad (Wekso) 209-11

Parque Nacional Altos de Campana 90

Parque Nacional Cerro Hoya 145

Parque Nacional Coiba 11, 147-50, 148, 11

Parque Nacional Darién 245, 250-1

Parque Nacional Omar Torrijos 109-10

Parque Nacional Portobelo 221

Parque Nacional Santa Fé 139

Parque Nacional Sarigua 118-19

Parque Nacional Soberanía 15, 78-80, 15

Parque Nacional Volcán Barú 14, 173-4, 14

Refugio de Vida Silvestre Cenegón del Mangle 113

Reserva Natural Punta Patiño 252

Reserva Privada Távida 109

Ngöbe-Buglé people 118, 178, 268

Niadup (Isla Diablo) 237Noriega, Manuel Antonio

263-5Nueva Gorgona 91-2

Núñez de Balboa, Vasco 85, 259

Oocelots 279Ocú 119-20off the beaten track 22,

201, 227, 32-3opening hours 294orchids 100

PPacific Coast beaches

91-3, 92Pacific islands 82-9painting 276-7Panama Canal 8, 76-8,

261-2, 77, 9expansion 256

Panama Canal Murals 54Panama Canal Railway 214,

215, 261-2Panama City 8, 39, 44-72,

45, 48-9, 53, 56, 60, 8-9

accommodations 44, 56-62

activities 54-5Bella Vista 59, 64-5, 60Calidonia 58-9Canal Zone 61-2, 65-6Casco Viejo 10, 47-51,

56-8, 62-4, 66-7, 56, 10

Causeway 52-4children, travel with 50climate 44courses 54-5day trips 58drinking & nightlife 66-7El Cangrejo 59-61,

64-5, 60entertainment 67-8festivals & events 55-6food 44, 62-6highlights 45, 45history 46Marbella 59-61, 64-5,

60Panamá Viejo 51-2, 52-3,53, 27Punta Paitilla 65San Francisco 65shopping 68-9sights 46-54tourist information

69-70

tours 55travel seasons 44travel to/from 70-1travel within 71-2walking tour 52-3

Panama Jazz Festival 23, 55-6

Panama Papers 265Panamá Province 40, 73-

93, 74-5accommodations 73climate 73food 73highlights 74-5, 74-5history 76surfing 91travel seasons 73

Panama Rainforest Discovery Center 80

Panamá Viejo 51-2, 52-3,53, 27

Parita 119Parita (chief) 118parks & gardens

Aprovaca 96El Explorador 164Finca Los Monos

Botanical Garden 185

Mariposario Metropolitano 51

Parque José Domingo Médica 164

Parque Natural Metropolitano 51

Parque Recreativo Omar 54

Parque Arqueológico Petroglifo El Nancito 163

Parque Internacional La Amistad (Las Nubes) 179-80

Parque Internacional La Amistad (Wekso) 209-11

Parque Nacional Altos de Campana 90

Parque Nacional Cerro Hoya 145

Parque Nacional Coiba 11, 147-50, 148, 11

Parque Nacional Darién 245, 250-1

Parque Nacional Omar Torrijos 109-10

Parque Nacional Santa Fé 139

Parque Nacional Sarigua 118-19

Parque Nacional Soberanía 15, 78-80, 15

Parque Nacional Volcán Barú 14, 173-4, 14

Parque Natural Metropolitano 51

parrots 36passports 298pearls 83, 89Pedasí 126-9Península de Azuero 12, 40,

112-34, 114-15, 12accommodations 112climate 112food 112highlights 114-15,

114-15history 113surfing 131travel seasons 112

Penonomé 106-8, 107Pesé 119-20petroglyphs

Parque Arqueológico Petroglifo El Nancito 163

photography 277, 294Pijibasal 250pirates 46, 51, 85planning

budgeting 16-17calendar of events 23-5first-time visitors 18-19internet resources 17itineraries 26-33, 26, 28,

31, 32-3outdoor activities 34-8Panama basics 16-17Panama’s regions 39-42repeat visitors 20travel seasons 16, 23-5travel to/from Panama

298-300travel within Panama

300-2plants 281Playa Barqueta 160Playa Blanca

(Coclé Province) 104-5Playa Bluff 197-9Playa Cambutal 133Playa Ciruelo 130Playa Coronado 92-3Playa El Agallito 120Playa Guánico 133

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

317IN

DEX P

-UPlaya La Garita 134Playa Las Lajas 161-3Playa Muerto 254Playa Toro 134Playa Venao 130-4plazas

Parque Bolívar 50Plaza de Francia 47Plaza de la

Independencia 50polleras 123-4, 12population 257, 267-9Portobelo 219-25, 220,

30postal services 294pottery 118public holidays 294public transportation

301-2Puerto Lara 247-8Puerto Lindo 225punta 273 Punta Chame 90-1

QQuebrada Sal (Salt Creek)

203quetzals 173, 280

Rrabies 292rafting 165rainforests 284Rancho Frío 251reggaetón 273religion 257, 270-1Reserva Privada Távida

109resplendent quetzals 173responsible travel 267

Comarca de Guna Yala 229

Darién Province 244diving 36

Río Mar 93Río Sambú 252-3Río Sidra 237-8riptides 38Road to Gardi (Cartí) 241romantic getaways 21ruins

Fuerte de San Gerónimo 249

Fuerte San Lorenzo (Colón Province) 217, 218

Fuerte San Lorenzo (Darién Province) 251

Iglesia y Convento de Santo Domingo 49

Isla Taboga 82Pana-Jungla 210Panamá Viejo 51-3Parque Nacional

Portobelo 221Sitio Barriles 174-5Wekso 210

Ssafety 295

Darién Province 245-6drinking water 185hiking 140, 295Panama City 69swimming 38

sailing 236salsa 272Sambú 253San Francisco 138Santa Catalina 15, 141-7,

15Santa Clara

(Chiriquí Province) 176Santa Clara

(Coclé Province) 103-4Santa Fé 138-41, 139Santiago 137-8School of the Americas

218seco distilleries 119Senidup 238shipwrecks 260shopping

language 306malls 68molas 233-4, 276-7, 19

sloths 20, 36smoking 290snorkeling 35, 10

Bocas del Toro Town 185-8

Isla Contadora 86Isla Taboga 83Parque Nacional Coiba

148-9Pedasí 126Portobelo 221Santa Catalina 142-3

Spanish galleons 260spas 185sports 269stadiums 54

subway 302Sunset Coast 150-2surfing 21, 35, 15, 37

Azuero Coast 131 Bocas del Toro Province

197, 37Bocas del Toro Town

185Chiriquí Province 162Colón Province 224Isla Bastimentos 197Isla Carenero 197, 199Isla Colón 197Panamá Province 91Península de Azuero

131Playa El Palmar 93Playa Venao 131Santa Catalina 142, 15Sunset Coast 151

swimming 38Balneario El Salto 138Balneário La Barranca

158Balneário La Cascada

163Boca del Drago 196Cascada de Bermejo

139Cayos Limones 236Comarca de Guna

Yala 231Niadup (Isla Diablo)

237Parque Nacional Coiba

148-9Portobelo 221Reserva Natural Punta

Patiño 252Río Bulaba 139Rio La Villa 120

Ttaxis 302Teatro Nacional 49, 67telephone services

295-6temples

Baha’i House of Worship 54

threatened species 281time 296típico 273toilets 296Torrijos, Omar 263Tortí 247

toucans 15, 36, 15tourist information 296,

see also individual locations

tours 302, see also individual activities, individual tours

Bocas del Toro Town 189

Boquete 165-7Comarca de Guna Yala

231-3Darién Province 245El Valle 99Humedal de San San

Pond Sak 208Isla Bastimentos 203Isla Cañas 134Isla Taboga 82-3Lago Bayano 246-7Monumento Natural Isla

Barro Colorado 81Panama Canal 77-8Panama City 55Parque Nacional Coiba

149Playa Cambutal 133Reserva Privada Távida

109Santa Catalina 143Santa Fé 140Volcán 175

train travel 215, 302Transpanama Trail 35transportation 298-302,

see also individual locations

language 307traveler’s diarrhea 292travel to/from Panama

298-300travel within Panama

300-2trekking, see hikingtuna tagging 129turtles 279, 280, 29

Humedal de San San Pond Sak 209

Isla Cañas 133-4Jaqué 254Playa Cambutal 133

typhoid 292

UUaguinega 241Uggubseni (Playón Chico)

240

318

IND

EX V- Z

Vvacations 294vaccinations 292Veraguas Province 41,

135-52, 136accommodations 135climate 135food 135highlights 136, 136travel seasons 135

viewpointsAgua Clara Visitors

Center 216visas 16, 296-7Volcán 174-6volunteering 297

Azuero Earth Project 127

Boca del Drago 196Comarca de Guna Yala

233Humedal de San San

Pond Sak 209Jaqué 253-4Playa Cambutal 133Playa Malena 151Rusia de Quebro 151turtles 254

WWailidup 237walking, see hikingwater, tap 185, 291waterfalls

Alto de Piedra 140Cascada de Bermejo

139Cascada del Río

Perresénico 250Cascada Távida 109Chorro El Macho 96Chorro Las Mozas 96-7El Salto 140El Salto de Las Palmas

138water sports 10, 35, 38,

10, see also individual sports

safety 38weather 16, 289, see also

individual regionswebsites, see internet

resourcesweights 290whale-watching

Isla Contadora 86Isla Taboga 83

white-water sports 38

wildlife 21, 278-9, 2, 10, 15, 29, 37 see also birds, individual species

wildlife reserves, see also birdwatching, wildlife-watching

Área Silvestre de Narganá 241

Butterfly Haven 96Mariposario

Metropolitano 51Panama Rainforest

Discovery Center 80Refugio de Vida Silvestre

Cenegón del Man-gle 113

Refugio de Vida Silvestre Isla Iguana 129-30

Refugio de Vida Silvestre Islas Taboga y Urabá 82

Reserva Privada Távida 109

wildlife-watching 15, 21-2, 36

El Valle 99Parque Nacional Coiba

147Sunset Coast 151

Wissudub Dummad (Isla Chicheme Grande) 236

women in Panama 271women travelers 297work 297workshops, see also

courses, factories altar restoration 119carving 174mask-making 119, 121Panama hats 119-20, 120polleras 120

Wounaan people 79, 244-5, 267, 268-71

communities 79Wreck Reef 239

YYandup 240Yandup (Narganá) 239-40Yaviza 249-50yellow fever 293yellow-fin tuna 129yoga

Bocas del Toro Town 185Panama City 55

Zzika 293

319

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway/Subte stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541538th edition – Jul 2019ISBN 978 1 78657 491 6© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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OUR WRITERSRegis St LouisRegis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents. His travels have taken him from the moun-

tains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand urban landscapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans. Follow him on www.instagram.com/regisstlouis.

Steve Fallon Panamá Province, Coclé Province, Península de Azuero, Colón Province, Comarca de Guna Yala, Darién Province A native of Boston, Massachusetts, Steve graduated from Georgetown Univer-sity with a Bachelor of Science in modern languages. After working for several years for an American daily newspaper and earning a master’s degree in jour-nalism, his fascination with the ‘new’ Asia led him to Hong Kong, where he lived for over a dozen years, working for a variety of media and running his own travel

bookshop. Steve lived in Budapest for three years before moving to London in 1994. He has writ-ten or contributed to more than 100 Lonely Planet titles. Steve is a qualified London Blue Badge Tourist Guide. Visit his website on www.steveslondon.com.

Carolyn McCarthy Panama City, Veraguas Province, Chiriquí Province, Bocas del Toro ProvinceCarolyn specializes in travel, culture and adventure in the Americas. She has written for National Geographic, Outside, BBC Magazine, Sierra Magazine, Boston Globe and other publications. A former Fulbright fellow and Banff Moun-tain Grant recipient, she has documented life in the most remote corners of Latin America. Carolyn has contributed to more than 40 guidebooks and antho-

logies for Lonely Planet, including the Colorado, USA, Argentina, Chile, Trekking in the Patagoni-an Andes, Peru and USA National Parks guides. For more information, visit www.carolyn mccarthy.org or follow her Instagram travels @mccarthyoffmap.

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