técnica del encadenado con ganchillo: usamos el ganchillo

técnica petitpoint con abalorios: usamos una arpillera

wigjig: usamos el wigjig para dar forma al alambre

El wigjig es un aparato con el que podemos dar forma al alambre ayudandonos con unas clavijas para doblarlo y haciendo ondulaciones y círculos

Hay varios tipos de wigjig que paso a explicar, cada uno adecuado para ciertos tipos de diseños, proximamente explicaré como hacer uno casero. Con unos clavos y una tabla de madera os podeis fabricar uno, en el foro tambien se han dado muchas ideas desde realizar un wigjig con arcilla o fimo hasta usar celo

para dar distintos grosores a las clavijas. Con un poco de imaginación os podeis ahorrar lo que cuesta un wigjig que ronda los 25 euros

Tecnicas en orden alfabetico - Tecnicas con fotos

WigJig OriginalLa plantilla tiene 4 clavijas

Mini-Athena WigJigEs una plantilla del metal con 9 clavijas. Adecuado para hacer nudos célticos y egipcios. Puedes hacer

diseños que con otro wigjig no podrias

Proyecto

WigJig Delphi Transparent JigTiene clavijas y agujeros mas pequeños que el olympus y olympus-lite por ello los diseños son mas pequeños y mas delicados. Es un gran complemento al Olympus pues facilita hacer conjuntos de bisuteria. Por ejemplo unos pequeños pendientes realizados con este wigjig podrian conjuntarse con un collar o brazalete realizado

con el olympus. 181 agujeros. 3"x3"

Aqui podeis ver mas detalles y componentes

Beginners WigJig Olympus-LiteEs ideal para principiantes. Colocale en una plantilla, pon las clavijas y da forma al alambre segun tu diseño.

238 agujeros

WigJig Olympus Transparent JigTiene el espacio de trabajo mas grande que cualquier wigjig, permitiendo uqe hagas diseños mas grandes

para pendientes, pulseras... Es tambien el mas grueso. Es una opcion para diseñadores mas profesionales de alambre.

482 agujeros. 5"x5"

PLANTILLAS

WigJig ElectraTiene una forma circular que facilita hacer diseños con curvas y circulos, puedes hacer diseños que no

podras realizar con otros wigjig. Tiene el mismo tamaño de las clavijas como el Olympus y el Olympus-Lite

Plantilla

WigJig CyclopsTambien es una plantilla circular que facilita hacer diseños con curvas y circulos los cuales no se pueden

hacer con otro wigjig

Plantilla

Para electra y cyclops detalles

Metal Thing-A-Ma Jig

Para los diseñadores de alambre que buscan una plantilla mas pesada. Las clavijas son más gruesas que la mayoría de las otras plantillas. Como la plantilla no es transparente, remontar un diseño sobre un patrón o fabricar una espiral no es posible. Sin embargo, sigue siendo simple diseñar joyería con alambre. Como las

clavijas pequeñas pasan hasta el fondo se debe de trabajar sin mover la tabla, por ello y al estar provisto de patas no es adecuado para trabajar en la mano ni para darlo vueltas mientras trabajamos

COMPARACION DE CARACTERISTICAS CON LOS WIGJIG

Specifications & Comparison of WigJig Jewelry Making Jigs

Feature OlympusOlympus

Lite Delphi Cyclops Electra Centaur* Mini-Athena

 

Transparent

 

Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes No

 

Type of Pegs

 

Movable Movable Movable Movable Movable Moveable Stationary

 

Number of peg holes

 

482 238 182 483 448 441 N/A

 

Jig Size

 

5" square 3" X 4" 3" square 4.5" square 5" square 4" Square 1-1/2" X 2-3/4"

 

Composition of pegs

Metal Metal Metal Metal Metal Metal Metal

 Metal Peg Diameter

3/32" 3/32" 1/16" 1/16" 3/32" 1/16" 1/8"

 

No of metal pegs packaged with jig

 

40 movable 10 movable 20 movable 10 movable  20 movable 20 moveable 9 stationary

 

Extra metal pegs available

 

Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes N/A

 

Super Pegs (round and square) available separately

 

Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes No

 

Spiral Maker Plus available separately

 

Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes No

 

Jig Price

 

$49.95 $20.97 $21.97 $39.95 $49.95 $44.95 $15.95

*= The WigJig Centaur will be available in October 2004

UN MONTON DE DISEÑOS PARA CADA WIGJIG

Olympus & Delphi

2-1 Bracelet

This bracelet jewelry making project is an advanced beginner's project.  The bracelet is made of 6 wire components that can be made on any WigJig with these components connected by wrapped bead links.  The name for the bracelet is 2-1 simply because the wire components used make a bracelet that alternates between two wrapped bead links then one wrapped bead link, then back to two.   

Jewelry Supplies:

12 inches of 16 or 18 gauge wire preferably 1/2 hard 24 inches of 22 gauge wire preferable 1/2 hard Ten 8mm beads Two 2 or 2.5mm Beads 2.5" fine commercial chain (optional for guard chain) 1 commercial clasp

 

Tools Required:

Round Nose Pliers Flush Cutter Bent Chain Nose Pliers (2) WigJig Delphi, Cyclops, Centaur, Olympus,

Electra or Olympus-Lite Nylon Jaw Pliers (recommended) Fine Step Jaw Pliers (recommended)

45 minutes of free time Jewelry Making Skills Required:

Use of a WigJig to make wire components.

Ability to make the wrapped bead link to connect wire components. 

The wire component used to make this bracelet can be made on any WigJig.  The pattern shown at right is for one of our jigs with a circular peg pattern.  The pattern shown below right is for one of our jigs with a square peg pattern like the WigJig Delphi. 

  Cyclops/Centaur

Step 1:  Cut and make a loop in a 1-7/8" segment of 16 or 18 gauge wire. 

Step 2:  Straighten the wire by pulling it through the jaws of your nylon jaw pliers while holding the initial loop.

Step 3:  Place the initial loop on peg one of your peg pattern.  Position peg 2 in your jig, but not peg 3.  Wrap the wire around peg 2 as shown above, leaving the wire resting adjacent to the hole for peg 3.  This will require pushing the wire just beyond the hole for peg 3 and letting it relax back into that position. 

Step 4:  Add peg three to your jig and wrap the wire around peg 3 as shown. 

Step 5:  Remove the wire from your jig and cut the excess wire.  Close the final loop made on peg 3 with your bent chain nose pliers. 

Step 6:  Harden and flatten the wire component by squeezing it in the jaws of your nylon jaw pliers.

Delphi

Step 5

Step 7:  Make a total of six wire components using the instructions in steps 1-6.  

Step 8:  Now we begin to build the bracelet.  Start by connecting one of the wire components (component A at right) to another (component B) with a wrapped bead link and an 8mm bead (bead 1).  Connect the middle hole on component A to the middle hole on the component B.  Instructions for making the wrapped bead link can be found here. 

Step 9:  Next we need to connect the outside holes in wire component A to the next wire component, component C.  Using the same technique for the wrapped bead link and your 8 mm beads, connect the loop made on peg 1 in component A to the loop made on peg 3 in the next component (component C) using wrapped bead link 2 shown at right.  Then with another 8mm bead connect the loop made on peg 3 in component A to the loop made on peg 1 in component C using wrapped bead link 3.  This will require you to cut any excess wire as you wrap the second part of this wrapped bead link closed to a length of about 7/16" long so that it will be able to wrap without getting caught in bead 2.     

Step 10:  Now add wire component D shown above, right by connecting the middle loop in component C to the middle loop in component D with wrapped bead link 4. 

Step 11:  At this point in assembling the bracelet we have four wire components connected (A, B, C and D).  We now need to add component E, the last one on this side of the bracelet.  This is done using 8mm beads and wrapped bead links 5 and 6.  Step 12:  Connect the center loop in component E to wrapped bead link and 8mm bead number 7 as shown at right.  Finish the second loop in wrapped bead link 7 as a regular wrapped loop, not connected to anything.Step 13:  Use wrapped bead link 8 to connect between the ending loop in wrapped bead link 7 and your commercial clasp.  If you want a bracelet that is 7-1/2 inches long (the normal length for a bracelet), then the bead used for wrapped bead link 8 should be 2.5mm in size.  It is hard to see in the pictures at right, but a 2.5mm round, gold-filled bead was used in the bracelet shown.  At the same time that you connect your clasp to wrapped bead link 8, also connect your guard chain if you decide to use one.  Step 14:  Repeat steps 11, 12 and 13 on the opposite end of the bracelet to complete the other side of the bracelet.  This completes your 2-1 bracelet. 

 

 

The matching earrings for this bracelet are easy to make.  They require 8 inches of 18 gauge wire and 8 inches of 22 gauge wire, both preferably 1/2 hard, 8 8mm beads, 2 2.5 or 3mm beads, two head pins and one pair of commercial ear wire findings.  To make the matching earrings, begin by making four of the 2-1 wire components using the instructions from Page 2.  Next you need to connect two of the 2-1 wire components using 8mm beads and the wrapped bead link.  On one end of these connected 2-1 wire components you hang a bead dangle using a head pin and two 8mm beads separated by one 2.5 or 3mm bead.  On the other end you attach one of your ear wire findings.  Make two identical earrings. 

 

Materials Used for 2-1 Bracelet:

The materials used in making this bracelet in gold-filled wire are as follows:

18 gauge gold-filled 1/2 hard round wire (Item 1010) or 16 gauge gold-filled 1/2 hard round wire (Item 0264)

22 gauge gold-filled 1/2 hard round wire (Item 1013) 8mm Swarovski Crystal Pearls or Round Beads 2.5mm Round Gold-filled Beads (Item 2592) Gold Filled Clasp (Item 0337 or Item 0017)

Fine Gold-Filled Chain (optional) (Item 2609)

The Materials used in making this bracelet in Sterling Silver wire are as follows:

18 gauge Sterling Silver 1/2 hard round wire (Item 2470) or 16 gauge Sterling Silver 1/2 hard round wire (Item 2469)

22 gauge Sterling Silver 1/2 hard round wire (Item 1014) 8mm Swarovski Crystal Pearls or Round Beads 2.5mm Round Sterling Silver Beads (Item 2598) Sterling Silver Clasp (Item 0339 or Item 0020)

Fine Sterling Silver Chain (optional) (Item 2610)

Jewelry Making -- How to Connect Jewelry Wire Components with a Wrapped Bead Link

The wrapped bead link is the jewelry making component shown at right.  This link is one of the more important links for connecting jewelry wire components, other wrapped beads links, or segments of commercial chain.  Simplified instructions for making this link can be found here.  Better, more detailed instructions are provided in our online book on jewelry making called "Wire Design Basics". 

   The following paragraphs provide a few jewelry making tips that I hope will help those who aren't satisfied with their wrapped loops.  These jewelry making tips provide amplification to the instructions provided above. 

1.  22G or 24G wire are easier to use in making wrapped loops than 18G or 20G.  In addition, while you should practice this skill with inexpensive copper wire, you will probably find that soft wire, like copper practice wire, is harder to use in making wrapped loops than is 1/2 hard wire.

2.  When you are trying to perfect this  technique, use larger loops.  It is easier to be successful when making a wrapped loop when the loop is larger. 

3.  Try to keep the jewelry wire tail that you are wrapping  perpendicular to the wire inside the bead as you wrap.  When the wire gets at an angle to the wire inside the bead, you will notice gaps between the wraps.

4.  When wrapping, it is best to hold the loop that you make with chain nose or bent chain nose pliers while you wrap the wire.  This helps to retain the shape of the loop (keeps it from distorting out of round) and helps to stabilize the piece as you wrap. 

5.  As you are learning this jewelry skill allow yourself more wire in the wire tail that you wrap around the wire segment inside the bead.  Instead of starting with a bend 1 inch from the end, make the initial bend 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 inch from the end of the wire.  This will mean that you cut off more excess jewelry wire, but while you are perfecting this skill, you will find it easier if you have a little more wire to work with. 

6.  One final jewelry technique to try is to push the wire tail that you are wrapping with your fingers close to the wire you are wrapping around.  This may make it easier to control the wrap and help to keep the wire perpendicular. 

2Tier Earrings 

The earrings shown at right are made from three wire components made on the WigJig Centaur or Cyclops plus a modified figure 8 connector.   For the purposes of these instructions the three wire components will be called top component, the 3 loop component and the five loop component. 

In a later page in this series, we will show a pattern for making these earrings on the WigJig Delphi. 

These earrings are relatively easy to make and are considered an advanced beginner's jewelry making project. 

Our professional jewelry critic (Suzanne Helwig) ;-) believes that this earring design is one of our best designs.  She has already placed her order for these earrings for her coming birthday.  Hopefully, you will like them too. 

   

Jewelry Supplies:

Sixteen inches of 20 gauge wire preferably 1/2 hard Twelve inches of 22 gauge wire preferable 1/2 hard

Tools Required:

Round Nose Pliers Flush Cutter

Eighteen 4mm beads Fourteen 1 1/2 inch head pins One pair commercial ear wire finding

 

Bent Chain Nose Pliers (2) WigJig Delphi, Cyclops, Centaur, Olympus,

Electra or Olympus-Lite Nylon Jaw Pliers (recommended) Fine Step Jaw Pliers (recommended)

45 minutes of free time Jewelry Making Skills Required:

Use of a WigJig to make wire components. Ability to make the wrapped bead link to connect wire components.  Ability to make a bead dangle using a head pin and beads.

Ability to open and close loops to connect wire components. 

The three wire components used to make the body of these earrings are shown at right.  We also need a modified figure 8 connector and an ear wire finding to complete these earrings.  Our instructions for making this jewelry item begin with the top wire component.  On page 3 we will provide the instructions for the 3 loop wire component and for how to connect the 3 loop component to the top wire component.  On page 4 we provide instructions for the 5 loop wire component and on page 6 we provide instructions for assembling the earrings including the modified figure 8 connector and the ear wire finding. 

Step 1:  Cut and make a loop in one end of a piece of 20 gauge wire 2 inches long.  1/2 hard wire is preferred. 

Step 2:  Straighten this wire.

Step 3:  Place pegs 1 and 2 into your WigJig Cyclops or Centaur as shown at right.  Put the initial loop on peg 1 and wrap the wire around peg 2 1-3/4 times so that it rests against the hole where peg 3 would go.   Step 4:  Now add peg 3 and wrap the wire around this peg. 

Step 5:  Remove the wire from the jig and cut the excess wire.  Close the loop made around peg 3 with your bent chain nose pliers. 

Step 6:  Now using your round nose pliers convert both loops in the top wire component into "eye" loops as shown at the bottom here. 

Step 7:  Using your bent chain nose pliers, one at a time grasp the loops at the bottom of this wire component and

twist them 90 degrees.  When completed it should appear as shown below, right. 

Step 5 Step 6 Step 7

Step 8:  Cut and make a loop in one end of a piece of 20 gauge wire 1-1/2 inches long. 

Step 9:  Straighten this wire using your nylon jaw pliers.

Step 10:  Position pegs 1 and 2 in your jig as shown at right.  Place the initial loop on peg 1 and wrap the wire around peg 2 so that it rests against the hole for peg 3.

Step 11:  Now add peg 3 and wrap the wire around this peg. 

Step 12:  Remove the wire from the jig and cut the excess wire.  Now using your bent chain nose pliers, close the loop made on peg 3. Step 13:  Now we need to connect the top wire component to the 3 Loop wire component.  First open one of the bottom loops in the Top Wire Component using your bent chain nose pliers and insert the corresponding loop from the 3 Loop wire component.  Then on the opposite side, open both the loop in the Top Wire Component and the loop in the 3 Loop wire component and connect these two loops.  Once the wire is in position, close both loops.  At this point the two wire components should appear as shown at right. 

Now we need to make the 5 Loop wire component. 

Step 14:  Cut a piece of 20 gauge wire 3 inches long.  Make a loop in one end of the wire. 

Step 15:  Straighten the wire using your nylon jaw pliers.

Step 16:  Place pegs 1 and 2 in your jig as shown at right.  Place your initial loop on peg 1 and wrap the wire around peg 2 so that it rests against the hole for peg 3.     Step 17:  Remove the wire from the jig and add peg three.  Place the initial loop on peg three and wrap the wire around peg 1.

Step 18:  Remove the wire from the jig and add peg four.  Place the initial loop on the jig and wrap the wire around peg four. 

Step 19:  Now add peg five and wrap the wire around peg 5. 

Step 20:  Remove the wire from the jig and cut the excess wire.  Close the loop made around peg 5 with your bent chain nose pliers. 

In the following pages we will discuss how to assemble these earrings.

At this point, we have the Top Wire Component connected to the 3 Loop Wire component and we need to assemble the remainder of the earring body. 

Step 21:  Using a 1-1/2 inch head pin and a 4mm bead, thread the bead onto the head pin and make a bead dangle hanging from the middle loop in the 3 Loop Wire Component.  Instructions for making a bead dangle can be found here.

  Step 22:  Now we need to connect the 3 Loop Wire Component to the 5 Loop Wire component using the wrapped bead link, first on one side, then on the other.  Use 22 gauge wire for making the wrapped bead link, with 4mm beads.  1/2 hard wire is best if available.  Instructions for making this wrapped bead link can be found here.  Connecting the first wrapped bead link will be relatively easy.  Connecting the second, on the opposite end, will require that you open the loop on that end of the 5 Loop Wire Component with your bent chain nose pliers, then connect the loop in your wrapped bead link and then close the loop in the 5 Loop Wire Component. 

Step 23:  Once the 3 Loop and 5 Loop Wire Components are connected, then with 5 head pins and 5 4mm beads, hang a bead dangle from each of the loops in the 5 Loop Wire Component, just like you did in Step 21. 

Step 24:  Now we need to make the modified figure 8 connector using 1 1/4" of 20 gauge wire.  Instructions for making this component can be found here.  Once completed, open one loop in the modified figure 8 connector and connect it to the top loop in the Top Wire Component. 

Step 25:  Open the remaining loop in the modified figure 8 connector and connect it to your commercial ear wire finding.  This completes your 2 Tier Earrings. 

In the following web page, we will provide the pattern for these earrings using our WigJig Delphi, Olympus or Olympus-Lite jigs. 

The pattern for making these earrings on the WigJig Delphi is shown at right.  This same pattern will apply to the Olympus or Olympus Lite, only the resulting earrings will be larger.  The steps for making these earrings are exactly the same as we have described previously.

The finished earrings made on the Delphi can be viewed at right.  These earrings are slightly different than the earrings made using the round pattern of the WigJig Cyclops, Electra or Centaur.

The obvious question is if two is good, would three be better?  In the case of these earrings the answer is maybe.  You can easily add a third tier to these earrings by adding a new wire component.  This new wire component is a five loop component, but is made on a different radius of the WigJig Centaur, Cyclops or Electra.  The pattern for this Third Tier Wire Component is shown below, right.  This component is made using the same steps that we used to make the 5 Loop Wire Component for the two tier earrings, but requires 3-1/4" of 20 gauge wire, preferable 1/2 hard.  (This 3 Tier Design does not easily work for a jig with a square peg pattern like the WigJig Delphi or Olympus.) 

Making these earrings is exactly the same as making the two tier earrings except that you connect three bead dangles to the 5 Loop Wire Component in Step 23, then you use 22 gauge wire and wrapped bead links to connect the 5 Loop Wire Component to the Third Tier Wire Component.  The techniques for connecting these two wire components are exactly the same as were used to connect the 3 Loop Wire Component to the 5 Loop Wire component described in Step 22.  Obviously, the 3 Tier Earrings require 10 additional 4mm beads and head pins and more 20 gauge and 22 gauge wire. 

When you are ready for special earrings that will really get noticed, consider these 3 Tier Earrings. 

Materials used:

The materials used in making these earrings in gold-filled wire are as follows:

20 gauge gold-filled 1/2 hard round wire (Item 1012) 22 gauge gold-filled 1/2 hard round wire (Item 1013) Gold filled head pins (Thin is recommended) (Item 0069) 4mm Swarovski Bicone Beads or Round Beads or Pearl Beads Gold Filled Ear wire findings (Item 2660 or Item 0117)

 

The Materials used in making these earrings in Sterling Silver wire are as follows: 20 Gauge anti-tarnish sterling silver 1/2 hard round wire (Item 3005) 22 Gauge anti-tarnish sterling silver 1/2 hard round wire (Item 3007) Sterling Silver head pins thin (Item 0082) 4mm Swarovski Bicone Beads or Round Beads or Pearl Beads Sterling Silver Ear wire findings (Item 2659 or Item 0421)

 

In the prior several pages we made earrings that were shaped like an upside-down letter "V", narrow at top and wide at the bottom.  In these pages we will address a new earring design, like the ones shown at right, that are shaped like the letter "V" in the normal orientation, wide at top and narrow at the bottom.  For this earring, the three body wire components are exactly like the ones used to make our inverted "V" three tier earrings.  The peg patterns for making these three wire components are shown below. 

The one difference in the wire components for the earrings at right is the top wire component.  This modified design requires a different top wire component.  In the following web pages we show two approaches to making this top wire component. 

Begin making these earrings by making the three wire components shown below.  Select any picture to navigate to our instructions for making that component.  All three components were made on the WigJig Cyclops, Centaur or Electra.  These earrings require about 18 inches of 20 gauge wire (preferably 1/2 hard) and 20 inches of 22 gauge wire (also preferably 1/2 hard).  In the earrings at right 24 4mm beads and 4 6mm beads were used along with 22 head-pins and one pair of ear wire findings.     

Large Wire Component

Middle Wire Component

Small Wire Component

Here we show two different styles for making the top wire components for these earrings.  For lack of a better name, we will call the left hand style, style 1 and the right hand style, style 2.  (Our imagination is on vacation today and we can't come up with a better name.)  Both of these styles work well.  With style 1, a modified figure 8 connector is required to connect the middle loop in the wire component to your ear wire finding.  With style 2, the modified figure 8 connector is optional.  You can connect directly to your ear wire finding, or you can use the connector. 

Step 1:  The first step in making either style is to cut a piece of 20 gauge wire about 2 1/8" long and make a loop in one end of this piece of wire. 

   Step 2:  While holding this loop, straighten the wire.     

Step 3:  Place pegs 1 and 2 on your jig and place the initial loop on the wire segment on peg 1.  Wrap the wire around peg 2 as shown at right.

Step 4:  Place peg 3 in your jig and wrap the wire around this peg.   

Style 1

 

Style 2

Step 5:  Remove the wire from your jig and using your flush cutter, cut the excess wire. 

Step 6:  Using your bent chain nose pliers, close the loop in the wire component made on peg 3. 

Step 7:  At this point, for either style of top wire component, we need to convert the loops made on pegs 1 and 3 into eye loops and reorient them 90 degrees.   Converting these loops into eye loops is done by grabbing the wire with the tips of your round nose pliers and twisting as shown at the bottom of this web page.     Eye LoopsStep 8:  Reorienting the loops is done by grasping the loop with your bent chain nose pliers while holding the loop made on peg 2 with your other hand, then twisting your pliers 90 degrees.  The end result will appear as shown at right.  The opening in the two loops can not been seen because it is facing to the side in a plane that can not be viewed by the camera.  This completes the top wire component.  ReorientedStep 9:  Now we need to assemble the earrings.  Connect the top wire component to the largest of the three body wire components by opening the loops in both wire components, making the connection then closing the loops. 

Step 10:  Using a 4mm bead and a head pin, make a bead dangle and hang the bead dangle from the two outside loops and the center loop. 

Step 11:  Using 22 gauge wire and a 4mm bead, make two wrapped bead links to connect the two empty loops on the largest wire component to the two outside loops on the middle wire component.  You will need to open the loops on the middle wire component to help make this connection, then close the loops once the connection has been made.  At this point two of the tree tiers are connected.

Step 12:  Just like you did in step 10, we need to use head pins and 4mm beads to make bead dangles and hang these bead dangles on the two outside loops and the center loop of the middle wire component. 

These instructions continue on the next page.

Step 13:  At this point we need to connect the third tier of the earrings.  Using the same approach that you did in step 11, use wrapped bead links to connect the loops made on pegs 2 and 4 of the middle wire component to the outside loops in the small wire component.  This will require 22 gauge wire and 4mm beads. 

Step 14:  Using head pins and 4mm beads, connect bead dangles to the two outside loops in the small wire component. 

Step 15:  Using a head pin and a 6mm bead, connect a bead dangle to the middle loop in the small wire component.  (As an alternative, you could use a 4mm bead here.)

Step 16:  Using a head pin and a 6mm bead, connect a bead dangle to the middle loop in the top wire component.  Because of the limited room available here, you may not be able to use a wrapped loop here and may need to make an open loop bead dangle as shown here. 

Step 17:  Now we need to make a modified figure 8 connector if we are using style 1 of the top wire component.  Use about 1 1/4" of 20 gauge wire as described here. 

Step 18:  Once the modified figure 8 connector is completed, use it to connect the middle loop in the top wire component to your ear wire finding.  If you are using style 2 for the top wire component, you can connect the loop in the ear wire finding directly to the middle loop in the top wire component. 

Step 19:  Use the same technique to make your second earring.

Alternatives:

The earrings shown at right are an alternative to the design we just completed.  These earrings use the top wire component from our 5 Plus 1 Beaded Chandelier Earrings to make earrings that are really shoulder dusters.  These earrings are long, and may be too long for some folks.  Instructions for making this 5 Plus 1 top wire component can be found here.  Other than this change, the process for making these earrings is identical to the steps discussed in the prior pages. 

In the following web pages we will show other alternative jewelry making designs for 2 tier and 3 tier "V" shaped beaded chandelier earrings. 

Alternative Designs (Continued):

This alternative design achieves the "V" shape in a different way.  Instead of using pegs arranged in three different radius of your jig, in this alternative, you will use one tier with five loops, the middle tier with 4 loops and the bottom tier with three loops, all at the same radius on your jig.  In making these earrings the top wire component is made the same as is the large wire component (with five loops).  The pattern for the large wire component is shown below-right. 

The middle wire component is made with pegs 1, 2, 3 and 4 from this same pattern. 

The small wire component is made with pegs 1, 2 and 3 from this same pattern.   Once you have these three wire components made, you assemble these earrings in a manner that is similar to the technique discussed in pages 11 and 12, with one exception.  For these earrings the connections between the three tiers of wire components (large to middle and middle to small) takes place between the outer loops in each wire component. 

For these earrings, because the small wire component is larger than the same component in the earrings shown on page 9, you can use a larger bead dangle in the middle of the small wire component.  For these earrings, I used an 8mm bead here instead of a 6mm bead. 

In the following pages we will show some patterns for 2 tier "V" designs that can be made on any WigJig jewelry making tool. 

The earrings shown at right were made using the round peg pattern of the WigJig Cyclops, Centaur or Electra.  These earrings are made from four wire components plus ear wire findings.  The four wire components working down from the ear wire finding are a modified figure 8 connector, the top wire component, the 5 loop wire component and the three loop wire component.  Making these earrings requires 16 inches of 20 gauge wire (preferably 1/2 hard), 10 inches of 22 or 24 gauge wire (preferably 1/2 hard), 18 teardrop beads, 14 1-1/2" head pins and a pair of ear wire findings. 

For the earrings shown on the left, the modified figure 8 connector is optional. For the earrings with the top wire component shown on the right, the modified figure 8 connector is mandatory.  Instructions for making this connector can be found here.    

The top wire connector connects the body of the earring to the modified figure 8 connector or optionally directly to the ear wire finding.  This component is made using the peg pattern shown at right.  This top wire component for the earrings on the left (shown above right) is made using the instructions for "Style 2" from page 10 and 11.  This component for the earrings on the right was made using the instructions for "Style 1".  With the Style 2 top wire component, the modified figure 8 connector is optional.  With Style 1, the modified figure 8 connector is mandatory.  As described in pages 10 and 11, making this wire component uses 2 1/8" of 20 gauge wire and requires wrapping the wire around the pegs as shown at right, cutting the excess wire, converting the loops on pegs 1 and 3 to eye loops, and finally rotating those loops 90 degrees. 

Top Wire ComponentStyle 2

The next component to make is the 5 loop wire component.  This component is made with 3 1/4" of 20 gauge wire and the peg pattern shown at right.  Start by cutting your wire segment.  Then make a loop in the end of the segment.  Grasp the loop and straighten the wire segment by pulling it through the jaws of your nylon jaw pliers.  Now place pegs 1 and 2 in your jig, as shown at right, and place the initial loop on peg 1.  Wrap the wire around peg 2 until the wire tail is adjacent to the hole for peg 3.  Add peg 3 and wrap the wire around this peg, leaving the wire tail adjacent to the hole for peg 4.  Add peg 4 and wrap the wire around this peg, leaving the tail adjacent to the hole for peg 5.  Add peg 5 and wrap the wire around peg 5 as shown at right.  Remove the wire from the jig and cut the excess.  Close the loop made on peg 5 with your bent chain nose pliers.   

5 Loop Component

The bottom, 3 loop wire component for the earrings shown above-right, is made using the same steps and procedures as you used for making the 5 loop wire component, only with three pegs and three loops.  The peg patterns for making this component uses pegs 1, 2, and 3 as shown at right. 

 

The bottom wire component on the earrings shown at right is made using the 5 pegs shown below-right.  This component is made with 2 1/2 inches of 20 gauge wire.  Begin by cutting and making a loop in the end of your wire, then using this loop to straighten the wire.  Start on your jig with pegs 1 and 2.  Place the initial loop on peg 1 and make a loop around peg 2 leaving the wire adjacent to the hole for peg 3.  Continue by adding peg 3 and making a loop around peg 3, then adding peg 4 and 5 in turn.  (When I made this component, I flipped the wire over after every loop that I made so that the final loop ended up on peg 1.  This is optional, and probably not recommended the first time you make this component.)  Once all five loops are completed, remove the wire from your jig and cut the excess wire.  Close the final loop with your bent chain nose pliers. 

   

At this point, we will have made the wire components necessary to assemble these earrings and we will need to begin assembling the earrings.  Instructions for making these earrings continue on the following web page. 

The first step in assembly of these earrings is to connect a bead to the middle loop of the top wire component.  This is accomplished with a head pin inserted into a bead connected as a bead dangle to the middle loop in the top wire component.  Instructions for this jewelry making technique can be found here. 

The second step in the assembly of these earrings is to connect the top wire component and the 5 loop wire component as shown at right.  (The bead is not shown in this picture.)  Making this connection is accomplished by opening the loop on one side of the top wire component and connecting that loop to one of the end loops on the 5 loop wire component, then closing the loop in the top wire component.  To connect the opposite end of the two components, both the end loop in the 5 loop wire component and the end loop in the top wire component must be opened.  The two loops are then connected and once connected, both loops are closed.  At this point we are ready to start adding beads.   

Begin with three teardrop beads and three head pins.  Insert the head pins into all three beads and hang the beads from the center and the two end loops on the 5 loop wire component. 

Now we are ready to connect the 5 loop wire component to the bottom wire component.  Using between 2 1/2 and 3 inches of 22 or 24 gauge wire, make a wrapped bead link, connecting the empty loop in the 5 loop wire component made on Peg 2, with one of the end loops on your bottom wire component.  The jewelry making technique for making the wrapped bead link can be found here.   Once that connection is completed, do the same thing with the remaining empty loop in the 5 loop wire component and the opposite end of the bottom wire component. 

Once these wire components are connected, take three beads and three head pins and connect the beads to the bottom three loops in the bottom wire component using your head pins. 

At this point you are ready to connect the ear wire finding to the middle loop in the top wire component either by your modified figure 8 connector or directly.  This is done by opening the loops in the modified figure 8 connector using your bent chain nose pliers, connecting the components and closing the loops.  This completes the assembly of this earring. 

Here is an alternative but similar design made on the WigJig Delphi or the square peg pattern part of the WigJig Centaur.  For these earrings we elected to use "Style 2" for our top wire component and were able to eliminate the need for a modified figure 8 connector.  For this reason, there are three wire components in these earrings plus an ear wire finding.  The three wire components are the top wire component, the 5 loop wire component and the 3 loop wire component. 

 The top wire component is made using the patterns shown at right.  This component is made with about 2 inches of 20 gauge wire.  The steps in making this wire component are the same as the steps that we described previously.  Simply stated they are cut the wire, make a loop, straighten the wire, position your pegs on the jig, wrap the wire around the pegs, remove the wire from the jig, cut the excess wire, close the final loop, convert the initial and final loops to eye loops and finally to rotate the initial and

final loops 90 degrees.  The finished wire component will appear as shown at right.   

Top Wire Component

The peg patterns for the 3 loop and 5 loop wire components are shown at right.  The 3 loop component uses 1 3/4" of 20 gauge wire and the 5 loop wire component uses 3 1/4" of 20 gauge wire.  Remember that when you are making a multi-peg pattern, start with just two pegs and add pegs as you go.  After wrapping the wire around the pegs as shown, remove from the jig, cut the excess and close the final loop with your bent chain nose pliers. 

Assembly of these earrings follows the same steps as described in pages 18 and 19 with the one exception in that the top wire component is connected directly to the ear wire finding.  There is no modified figure 8 connector required.        

   In the following web page, we will describe another alternative design for similar 2 Tiered V Shaped Chandelier Earrings that will also use the square peg pattern of the WigJig Delphi or the WigJig Centaur. 

This earring design combines the V Shaped Wire Component from our Chandelier Earrings with the Style 2 Top Wire Component and the 5 Loop Bottom Wire Component shown on page 17.  These earrings can be made with or without the modified figure 8 connector.  The earrings at right have this connector. 

The earrings at right were made using 18 gauge wire instead of the 20 gauge wire used in our prior patterns. 

The top wire component is made using the peg pattern shown at right and using the steps described in this section previously. 

The V shaped wire component is made using the peg pattern at right.  Remember to start with just 2 pegs and add a peg as you need it as you make this wire component.  Instructions for making this component can be found here.  

The 5 loop bottom wire component is made as described in page 17. 

The assembly of these earrings is performed as described in pages 18 and 19. 

We have described a lot of options for making multi-tier chandelier earrings.  We have options using 4mm beads and other options using 6mm beads.  We have options using 18 gauge wire for the body components and other options that used 20 gauge wire for the body components.  We show many different styles of top wire components used to connect the body of the earring to the ear wire finding, and many style of body components.  Some of the patterns we used required a jig with a round peg pattern, some of the patterns required a jig with a square peg pattern.  There are many more combinations that could be explored.  For now, we are going to move on away from

tiered earrings and begin to investigate ways to make a complimentary yoke as a necklace component.  This new necklace project will be coming soon!

Jewelry Making -- How to Make a Bead DangleThe first question is exactly what is a bead dangle and why do I need to know how to make one?  Normally, a bead dangle is one or more beads held in place by jewelry wire, with a loop at one end so that the bead dangle can hang from that loop.  Bead dangles can be an important jewelry making component of earrings or necklaces.  Select here to view pictures of a bead dangle. 

A bead dangle is an important jewelry making component, frequently made using a jewelry finding called a head-pin.  A head-pin is a piece of metal with a "head" like the head of a pin on one end and a straight wire tail usually between 1 and 3" long.  Unlike a regular straight pin, the head pin is not sharp on the end opposite the "head", but ends in a flat or flush cut end.  The "head" of the head pin holds the beads in place, the wire tail of the head pin is used to make the loop on the opposite end.  You can view a selection of head pins here. 

A bead dangle is made by sliding one or more beads onto the head pin.  With the head pin held vertically, with the head on the bottom and the wire tail point up, push the beads to the bottom against the head of the head pin and grasp the wire tail just above the beads with your chain nose or bent chain nose pliers.  Then bend the wire to an angle of about 80 degrees.  Now grasp the wire tail near this bend with your round nose pliers and make an eye loop in the wire.  Visit here to see how to make this loop and cut the wire.  Another approach to making this loop is to make a wrapped loop instead of a simple eye loop.  This is a more advanced technique and is described in detail in our online book on jewelry making called "Wire Design Basics". 

3D Spiral3 Loop

4 Dangle Earrings5 Plus 1 Earrings8 Dangle Earrings

Amethyst CubeAngular Curves

Aquarium & Beaded BellAqua Sampler

Autumn SplendorBand Ring

Beads, Celtic Knots, and ChainsBeaded Angular S-Link

Beaded ChainBeaded Hearts

Beaded Lace DangleBeaded S-LinkBeaded Spiral

Bead NestsBeads-in-Wire

Beads Wrapped in WireBlack Laced with Purple

Blue HeartsBottoms Up Yoke Necklace

Box LinksBracelets with Pizzaz

Caribbean BlueCeltic Collage

Celtic Knot EarringsCeltic Lace

Celtic Wire Bead NecklaceChain Brclt

Chandelier EarringsClassic Hoop Classic PearlsCloisonn 鼯 a> Cobra's Lair

Coiled Bracelet & EarringsCoiled Links

ConfettiCopperhead

Cross Link BraceletCuff BraceletCurls & SwirlsCurvaceous

Diamond CenterpieceDiamond Chandelier Earrings

Deluxe DuplexDiamond Vines

Double DiamondsDonut Your "Y"Duplex Bracelet

Ear DangleChain Bracelet

CombosEar Wires

Elegant ChaosFigure 8 Filigree Necklace Set

Fish TailFive-Loop Pendant Enhancer

Flemish SpiralFour Leaf Clover

Four Plus 1 EarringsFrosted YFunky 8

Funky CurvesFunky Woven Bracelet with Spirals

Hairpin CurvesHang Loops

HarlequinHemp 'n Ovals

Hooks & CatchesHoops Hoops Hoops

In the PinkIvy Link Choker

Jeweled MemoriesKnots Squared

Large Bead ChokerLavender Teardrops

Lazy CurvesLeather - Bali Style

Lilli's DropLilli's Loops

Loops & PearlsLoop-the-Loop

Loopy L NecklaceLoopy Yoke

Magical NuggetsMesh Link Bracelet

Modern KnotsOne Piece Chandelier

Paddy's DelightPearl Bracelet & Earrings Set

Pearl & WigJigPentagon Choker

Petite DanglePurple & Black Circles

Purple FantasyPurple Knitted Chains

Purple Seed RopeQueen of Clubs Earrings

Red & Black Wire Bead NecklaceRed & Silver Waves

RemembranceRibbon Coils Link

RibbonedRound LinksScepter Link

Seafoam ChokerSideways 8

SideWindersSimple Beaded

Small ChandelierSpiral Diamond

Spirals & StonesSquare Earrings

StarburstSun Pendant with Waves Links

SwansSwirly 8 Link Necklace

Three-for-OneThree Square

Tie-A-BowTiny Winders

TrianglesTriangular Rose

Triple CurvesTucson

Turquoise BibTurquoise SideWinders

Twenty Earring Jacket DesignsTwisted 8 Link

Twisted Wire PendantsVee Links 

W Chandelier Wavy YokeWhimsicalWishbone

Wrap Around BraceletWrapped Link

Wire ChandelierYoke Link Choker

Yokes and More Yokes

Todo sacado de www.wigjig.com

MI WIGJIG CASERORealizado con metacrilato, se trata de 2 placas que se ajustan con 2 tornillos para meter y sacar los tornillos

que servirán de base para dar forma al alambre

El wigjig alto lleva un agujero en sus patas para insertar un entorchador

Si haceis clic en sus fotos vereis una ampliación.

Podeis realizar uno imprimiendo la plantilla que se proporciona en formato pdf junto a los modelos de wigjig.

enfilador rápido: usamos este aparato para enfilar rapidamente los abalorios

PARA QUE SIRVE

Como su nombre indica para enfilar rapidamente, ahorra estar metiendo los abalorios de uno en uno pues es como si se enfilaran todos solos

ACONSEJADO PARA

Esta es una herramienta útil para aquellos que hacen collares de enfilado simple o múltiple que conste solo de abalorios o aquellos que realizan collares de ganchillo ya que hay que enfilar varios metros de ellos

COMPONENTES

Fundamentalmente es un cuenco con un apoyo en el centro

FORMA DE USO

Los abalorios se introducen en el cuenco, con una mano sostienes el cabo del hilo por donde se insertarán los abalorios y con la otra mano coges el apoyo del centro y le das vueltas en sentido contrario a la direccion donde hayas puesto el cabo. Cuando hayas insertado unos cuantos abalorios sacas el cabo del cuenco y

deslizas los abalorios dejando libre de nuevo el inicio del cabo. Luego vuelves a introducirlo en el cuenco y haces lo mismo

Aquí podeis ver una animación de su funcionamiento

FABRICACION DE UNO CASERO

Con un cuenco de plástico (de los helados, margarina...) y un palito redondo podéis fabricar uno vosotros mismos.

Pon el cuenco boca abajo y con un cutter o cuchillo haz un pequeño corte, mete unas tijeras en ese hueco y ve girándolas haciendo que se coman el plástico haciendo asi un agujero redondo. Ve probando el palo y métele cuando el tamaño del agujero sea el adecuado (es mejor tener que empujarle un poco, si te pasas

tiene peor arreglo), introducele desde abajo. Si quieres asegurarlo pon pegamento, yo no le he puesto pq no lo veo necesario.

Ahora tan solo tienes que rellenarle con abalorios e insertar la aguja o alambre con el que vas a enfilar. Con la otra mano gira el palo en sentido contrario, esto hara que todo el cuenco se mueva y vayan insertandose los abalorios en el hilo (la punta del hilo siempre quieta comienza poniendola en el fondo y ve subiendo un poco). Ve deslizando los abalorios hacia atrás cuando tengas unos cuantos metidos y vuelve a introducir el

cabo del hilo en el fondo del cuenco.

MODELOS

FOTOS TOMADAS DE ESTOS LINKS

http://kimberlychapman.com/crafts/beadspinner.html (muestra uno casero)

http://www.beadspinnerlady.com/ http://www.blessedbeads.com/misc.htm

PLANTILLAS

MARGARITAS:

margarita simple

margarita doble centro

margarita doble

margarita triple

TRIANGULOS

RED

pequeña

grande

PUNTADAS:

peyote

comanche

en circulos

PROGRAMAS PARA DISEÑAR TUS PROPIOS PROYECTOS

Fundamentalmente son para tejidos y para realizar dibujos para luego aplicar las puntadas para realizarlos

EASY BEAD PATTERNS

Aquí podrás crear online tus propios esquemas de tejido de peyote, cuadrado o comanche. Puedes crear la base del esquema o seleccionar una imagen de tu ordenador y ellos te lo transforman gratuitamente en un momento

BEAD DESIGNER 1.0 (beta)

Es gratuito

Desde esta web te lo puedes bajar. Pulsa aqui para bajarte el programa y aqui para leer unas instrucciones

THE BEAD CELLAR

GRAPH PAPER PRINTER

BEAD-WIZARD

BEAD CREATOR

Los 4 ultimos les añado para que sepais que hay mas pero no son gratuitos.

Con los programas de esquemas de punto de cruz tambien podeis crear vuestros patrones de la puntada cuadrada

EXPOSITORES Y MUESTRARIOS

EXPOSITORES DE METACRILATO PARA PENDIENTES- Precio: 4,50 abalorios@ono.com

MUESTRARIO MANTA (por vicky)

MUESTRARIO DE GIRLPOWER EN TELA Y CARTON

Ilargi nos dio la idea tambien de pinchar nuestros pendientes en un pañuelo y llevarlo en el bolso para mostrarlo en cualquier ocasion, de momento no hay foto

JOYERO DE LUCIACOLOCACION DE COLLARES CONO, CORCHERA Y BUSTO

(lokilla,, maribel, raloida)

COLOCACION DE PULSERAS EN CARTON (leibardi)

PRESENTACION CON CARTON(lylit, lluna's)

COLOCACION EN CORCHERA(aerismaud)

COLOCACION DE ANILLOS, EN TELA, CONOS Y ROLLOS DE PAPEL(kathy, agosto,kantabra, ani)

ANILLOS

ANILLO DE FLORES