Nicaragua

Bridget Gleeson, Anna Kaminski, Tom Masters

CaribbeanCoastp203

NorthernHighlands

p167

SouthwesternNicaragua

p102

León &Northwestern

Nicaraguap135

San Carlos,Islas Solentiname& the Río San Juan

p240

Granadap80

Masaya &Los Pueblos

Blancosp65

Managuap42

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Nicaragua . . 4

Nicaragua Map . . . . . . . . . .6

Nicaragua’s Top 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .18

First Time Nicaragua . . . 20

If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Month by Month . . . . . . . 24

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Off the Beaten Track . . . 32

Nicaragua Outdoors . . . . 34

Regions at a Glance . . . . 38

MANAGUA . . . . . . . . . 42Around Managua . . . . . . 62Masachapa & Pochomil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62Reserva Natural Chocoyero–El Brujo . . . . . 64San Diego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64

MASAYA & LOS PUEBLOS BLANCOS . . . . . . . . . 65Masaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67Parque Nacional Volcán Masaya . . . . . . . . . . 71Nindirí . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72Los Pueblos Blancos . . . 73Catarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74San Juan de Oriente . . . . . 74Diriá & Diriomo . . . . . . . . . . 75Niquinohomo . . . . . . . . . . . 76Masatepe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76Carazo Towns . . . . . . . . . 77Diriamba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77Jinotepe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78Reserva Ecólogica La Maquina . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79La Boquita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79Casares . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79

GRANADA . . . . . . . . . 80Around Granada . . . . . . . 96Volcán Mombacho . . . . . . . 96Reserva Natural Laguna de Apoyo . . . . . . . . 98Isla Zapatera . . . . . . . . . . . . 99Isletas de Granada . . . . . . 100

SOUTHWESTERN NICARAGUA . . . . . . 102Rivas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103San Jorge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106Isla de Ometepe . . . . . . 107

Moyogalpa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111Volcán Concepción . . . . . 112Around Volcán Concepción . . . . . 113Altagracia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Playa Santo Domingo & Santa Cruz . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115Volcán Maderas . . . . . . . . 116Around Volcán Maderas . .117Pacific Beaches . . . . . . .119Tola & the Tola Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . 119Refugio de Vida Silvestre Río Escalante–Chacocente . . 123San Juan Del Sur . . . . . . . 123Beaches North of San Juan del Sur . . . . . . . 130Beaches South of San Juan del Sur . . . . . . . 132

LEÓN & NORTHWESTERN NICARAGUA . . . . . . 135León . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138Pacific Beaches near León . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Volcanoes near León . . . . 156San Jacinto . . . . . . . . . . . . 158El Sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Chinandega . . . . . . . . . . . . 159Around Chinandega . . . . . 161Cosigüina Peninsula Beaches . . . . . . 163Reserva Natural Volcán Cosigüina . . . . . . . 166

NORTHERN HIGHLANDS . . . . . . .167Estelí . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170Área Protegida Miraflor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Condega . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Somoto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179

PH

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GREAT CORN ISLANDS P228

PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Contents

Ocotal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181Dipilto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Ocotal to Jalapa . . . . . . . . 183Jalapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184Estelí–Jinotega Road . . . . 186Jinotega . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187Reserva Natural Cerro Datanlí–El Diablo . . . . . . . 191Lago de Apanás . . . . . . . . 192Matagalpa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192San Ramón . . . . . . . . . . . . 198Reserva Natural Cerro El Arenal . . . . . . . . . 199La Dalia & Peñas Blancas . . . . . . . . .200South of Matagalpa . . . . . 201

CARIBBEAN COAST . . . . . . . . . . . 203Bilwi (Puerto Cabezas) . . . . . . .206Around Bilwi . . . . . . . . . . .209Miskito Keys . . . . . . . . . . . 210

Waspám & the Río Coco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210Managua–El Rama Road . . . . . . . . . . . . 212El Rama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219Bluefields . . . . . . . . . . . . . .220Pearl Lagoon . . . . . . . . . . . 224Around Pearl Lagoon . . . . 226Pearl Keys . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227Corn Islands . . . . . . . . . . . 228Las Minas . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239

SAN CARLOS, ISLAS SOLENTINAME & THE RÍO SAN JUAN . . . . . . . . 240San Carlos . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241San Miguelito . . . . . . . . . . 245Islas Solentiname . . . . . . . 246Refugio de Vida Silvestre Los Guatuzos . .250Río San Juan . . . . . . . . . . . 251

Nicaragua Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262

Nicaraguan Way of Life . . . . . . . . . . . .271

Arts & Architecture . . . 276

Land & Wildlife . . . . . . . .281

Political Unrest & Traveler Safety . . . . . . . 290

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . .291

Transportation . . . . . . . 299

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VOLCANO MOMBACHO P96 & LAGUNA DE APOYO P98

SPECIAL FEATURESNicaragua’s Top 15 . . . . . . 8

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Off the Beaten Track . . . 32

Nicaragua Outdoors . . . 34

Arts & Architecture . . . 276

Land & Wildlife . . . . . . . 281

Political Unrest & Traveler Safety . . . . . . . 290

UNDERSTAND

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Itineraries

!

MANAGUA

Granada

Masaya

SanJorge

Isla deOmetepe#f

San Juan del Sur #•

PA C I F I CO C E A N

Lago deNicaragua

#•#•

COSTARICA

#•

#•

É

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#•

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Lagunade Apoyo

ÉÉ

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Volcán Masaya

Pueblos Blancos

West Coast Highlights

Pack several heavyweight highlights into a week, making the most of the country’s his-tory, nature and culture.

From Managua, make a beeline for Granada, and spend a day exploring the rich historic offerings of its colonial architecture and vibrant dining scene. The following day, spend the morning shopping for excellent quality handicrafts in the Pueblos Blancos and Masaya, then make a beeline for the Laguna de Apoyo for an afternoon’s relaxation beside the crater lake. In the evening, head for the Volcán Masaya to watch lava bubble in its crater. The following morning, head to the San Jorge dock and take a boat to Isla de Ometepe. Spend two days exploring the island, trekking up one of its volcanoes, kayaking through mangroves, hiking to the waterfall and staying on a tranquil finca (farm).

Return to the mainland, and head for San Juan del Sur for a couple of days of sea, surf and partying. Explore the beaches north and south of town in search of the best place to hit the waves.

On the final day, return to Managua and devote your time to visiting historic land-marks, and finish off the day bar-hopping in Los Robles and Altamira.

1 WEEK

27©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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If you have limited time in Nicaragua, a trip through the southwest is big on awesome and small on hours in the bus. The region is a condensed wonderland of barreling surf, volcanoes, crater lakes, colonial towns and artisan villages that includes many of Nicara-gua’s must-see highlights.

Fly into Managua and take in the view across town from Sandino’s silhouette on the Loma de Tiscapa before heading south and descending into the lush crater at Laguna de Apoyo for the night. Spend the next day swimming in the rich sulfuric waters or spotting birds and howler monkeys in the forest, before enjoying the spectacular night sky.

The following morning, visit the artisan workshops of the nearby Pueblos Blancos, including the pottery cooperative at San Juan de Oriente. Then head 30 minutes down the road for some colonial splendor in charismatic Granada. Spend three nights taking in the wonderful streetscapes, visiting the museums and churches, and dining in the fine restaurants. While you’re here take a kayaking day trip through the islets just offshore, and hike among the cloud forest atop Volcán Mombacho.

Next head down the highway to San Jorge. From here take the ferry to the out-of-this world Isla de Ometepe with its twin volcanoes and endless outdoor activities. Spend a night among the howler monkeys at Reserva Charco Verde and another at the base of Volcán Maderas, from where you can hike to the emerald-green crater lake.

Proceed across the isthmus to the surfing capital of San Juan del Sur, where you’ll spend three days lazing on the splendid surrounding beaches or surfing some of the excellent breaks in the area. If you can drag yourself off the beach, take a day trip to the charming fishing village of El Ostional or, if you’re lucky, watch sea turtles arrive en masse at Refugio de Vida Silvestre La Flor. In the evenings, work your way though the happening beachfront bars and restaurants.

On your way back to Managua, stop at Masaya to shop for souvenirs and gifts in the excellent Mercado Artesanías (National Artisans Market) and visit the hammock workshops.

10 DAYS

!

#•

#•

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Granada

Lagunade Apoyo

Pueblos Blancos

SanJorge

Isla deOmetepe

#f#•

San Juan del Sur #•

#•El Ostional

Refugio de Vida Silvestre La Flor #•

PA C I F I CO C E A N

Lago deNicaragua

#_

#•

#• #•

É

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#•San Juan de OrienteRVolcánMombacho

VolcánMaderas

#•ReservaChacoVerde

#•

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Stunning Southwest

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The southeast corner of Nicaragua is an unparalleled playground for nature lovers of all dispositions. It boasts both comfortable eco-retreats and more strenuous adventures among lush wetlands and towering rainforests filled with fascinating ruins, reptiles and birdlife.

From Managua fly or bus it to. Spend a morning checking out the old Spanish fort and waterfront before taking the afternoon boat to the enchanted archipelago of the Islas Solentiname. Spend a night on both Isla San Fernando and Isla Mancarrón, fol-lowing jungle trails to in situ petroglyphs, swimming in the clear waters and visiting local artist workshops.

From Mancarrón, charter a boat to the Río Papaturro in the Refugio de Vida Silves-tre Los Guatuzos, stopping to spot the amazing birdlife at some of the smaller islands on the way. Hike through the thick monkey-inhabited forest or kayak in the wetlands before heading out on an alligator safari in the evening.

Next take the public boat back to San Carlos. Pick up a riverboat down the Río San Juan to Boca de Sábalos, a small river town surrounded by steamy jungle. Among the many ex-cursions on offer here is a tour to a local cacao plantation and chocolate factory. Or simply relax on your hotel balcony and spot aquatic birds on the banks of the majestic river.

After two nights in Sábalos, continue downstream to El Castillo, where an imposing Spanish fort looms over the rapids. Spend two days here riding horses through the roll-ing green hills and and enjoying the charms of this delightful little jungle-bound town.

If you have a day to spare, detour north on a day trip to Refugio Bartola biological station, with a network of trails through towering old-growth forest and kayaks to pad-dle up the narrow jungle-clad Río Bartola to crystal-clear swimming holes. Otherwise, continue the journey by picking up a riverboat heading downriver to San Juan de Nica-ragua, where the Río San Juan pours into the Caribbean Sea. Give yourself three days to explore the ruins of Greytown, spot manatees in hidden lagoons and head up the Río Indio into the heart of the Reserva Biológica Indio-Maíz. From San Juan fly directly back to Managua or take a panga (motorboat) on to Bluefields and return from there.

2 WEEKS

#_

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SanCarlos

Río Papaturro

COstarICa

Refugio de VidaSilvestre Los Guatuzos

#÷

IslasSolentiname

Boca deSábalos

El CastilloRefugio Bartola

Lago deNicaragua

É

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CaribbeanSea

Isla MancarrónReserva

BiológicaIndio-Maíz

Bluefields

#•#÷

#•

San Juan deNicaragua

#f

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#–

Cruising the Río San Juan

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Rich in nature and revolutionary culture, northern Nicaragua is equally rugged and refined. In one trip you’ll go from sipping organic coffee at the source to surfing an ac-tive volcano. Charge your batteries: you’ll want to take plenty of pictures or no one will believe you when you get home.

Upon arrival skip through Managua and head for the crumbling colonial beauty of León to give Nicaragua the fantastic introduction it deserves. Spend three days explor-ing this endearing city on foot, visiting fascinating museums, spacious mansions and glorious churches. If you’re feeling energetic, hike one of the nearby volcanoes or surf the slopes of Cerro Negro.

From León head west to the beach at Las Peñitas and find a spot in a sand-floor beach-side bar for the spectacular sunset. In the morning make an early start to travel north to Jiquilillo. Spend a couple of days soaking up the ambience in this pretty fishing village and paddling through the mangroves of the nearby Reserva Natural Estero Padre Ramos.

Then travel across the Maribios volcanic chain and into the mountains to Estelí, where you can visit cigar factories and check out revolutionary murals. After a couple of days head into the mountains in the Área Protegida Miraflor for two days of horse-back riding, wildlife spotting and farm-culture immersion.

Move on to Somoto and to Monumento Nacional Cañon de Somoto to swim, jump and rappel your way through the canyon. Next morning travel to Matagalpa for a few caffeine-fueled days picking coffee beans and hiking on local plantations. Continue climbing higher into the mountains, stopping at the gorgeous Selva Negra coffee estate, before arriving in Jinotega, gateway to the cloud forests of Reserva Natural Cerro Datanlí–El Diablo. Spend a day in town to climb Cerro la Cruz and then spend a couple of days hiking in the reserve.

Give your muscles a break with a boat cruise on Lago de Apanás before continuing on to San Rafael del Norte. Here you can visit one of Nicaragua’s most magnificent churches or fly through the pine forest on a zipline.

3 WEEKS

#•

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PA C I F I CO C E A N

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Las Peñitas

Jiquilillo

MANAGUA

León

Matagalpa

Jinotega

Lago de Apanás

San Rafael del Norte

Área Protegida Miraflor

Somoto

Estelí

Reserva NaturalEstero Padre Ramos

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31PLAN

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Golfo deFonseca

P A C I F I C

O C E A N

Río

Coc

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San Miguel

TEGUCIGALPA

MANAGUA

Siguatepeque

Comayagua

Choluteca

Chinandega

León

Estelí

Matagalpa

Danlí

Moyogalpa

Perquín

La Unión

Ocotal

Jinotega

Boaco

Rivas

MasayaGranada

San Juandel Sur

Somoto WIWILÍ

SALTOEL ROSARIO

EL SAUCEDELTA DEL ESTERO REAL

C o r d i l l e r a

Mo n t a ñ a s d e Co m a ya g u a

C o r d i l l e r a

Lago deYojoa

Lago deManagua

Lago deNicaragua

RepresaEl Cajón

H O N D U R A S

EL SALVADOR

ReservaNaturalMiraflor

ReservaNatural

Cerro Tisey-Estanzuela

Reserva NaturalEstero Padre Ramos

Volcán Masaya

Volcán Cerro Negro

Off the Beaten Track: Nicaragua

at the end of one of the worst roads in Central america you’ll find this spectacular 100m-high split-level waterfall that makes every bump, ditch and pothole seem insignificant. (p184)

SALTO EL ROSARIO

take a boat ride through these vast wetlands, close to the Honduran border, to spot alligators and migratory birds backed by the magnificent Volcán Cosigüina.(p161)

DELTA DEL ESTERO REAL

On the back roads between León and estelí is this sleepy mountain town cut straight from an old Western movie. the surrounding mountains are strewn with waterfalls and hiking trails. (p158)

EL SAUCE

the ultimate remote river adventure takes you from Wiwilí in the northern highlands, all the way to the Waspám, in the Caribbean, stopping in tiny Miskito villages along the way. Only hardcore adventurers need apply. (p210)

DESCENDING THERÍO COCO

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C A R I B B E A N

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Río Wawa

Río Grande Matagalpa

de

Río Escondido

(Segovia)

RioSan

Los Chiles

El Rama

El Castillo

Juigalpa

Bluefields

Liberia

(Puerto Cabezas)

Waspám

Bilwi

Boca deSábalos

San Carlos

San Juan de Nicaragua

MONKEY POINT

CORN RIVER

MISKITOKEYS

MAKENGE

RÍO BLANCO

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PearlLagoon

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Corn Islands(Islas del Maíz,

Nicaragua)

IslasSolentiname

Pearl Keys

C O S T A R I C A

N I C A R A G U A

Refugio de Vida SilvestreLos Guatuzos Reserva

Biológica Indio-Maíz

Reservade Biosfera

Bosawás

mk 050selim 030

spend the night with welcoming Miskito lobster fishers in their stilted wooden houses that jut out of the turquoise Caribbean sea, among rocky outcrops and coral reefs some 50km offshore. (p210)

MISKITO KEYS

accessed from the town of río Blanco on the Managua–siuna Hwy, this ruggedly beautiful mountain reserve has almost a dozen peaks over 1400m and as many dramatic waterfalls. (p283)

RESERVA NATURAL CERRO MUSÚN

a perilous ride through the open seas in a small boat keeps the best beaches on the Caribbean mainland completely empty and undeveloped. (p217)

MONKEY POINT

this Creole community, accessed by boat charter from san Juan de nicaragua, is the gateway to superb wildlife-watching in this seldom-visitedpart of the reserva Biológica Indio-Maíz. (p217)

CORN RIVER

Deep in the Indio-Maíz, the indigenous rama community of Makenge is surrounded by the class of jungle you’ve probably only seen in wildlife documentaries. (p257)

MAKENGE

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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A Alexandre Voirol, Alison Berry, Alyssa Kreikemeier, Anne-Marie Summerhays, Annet Derks, Arturo Llorente B Bernd Johann, Bonnie Douglas, Brenna Klassen-Glanzer, Bruce Vangroenigen C Carme Galindo, Celine Kooiker, Charles Lambert, Claudia Wouters D Daan Vossers, David Melero, Douglas Dockey E Emilie Vermeiren, Erik van Hirtum, Esther de Boer F Felix Bestle, Fiona Fry G George Nicola J Jon Telletxea Aragon K Kai Gogolin, Karine Berneche, Karl Pineault, Kerstin Schneider L Laura Jeffords, Laura Waz, Liesbeth Vringer, Linda Osterwalder, Lyndsay Cutler M Mark Williams, Maurice Stewart, Michaela Fasching, Miranda Smit, Monika Schindlerova N Niels Jaetzold O Olaf Piers P Patrick Condon, Paul van de Sande, Pauline & Rob Stannard, Penny Gage, Pim Dings R Renate Raff, Rick Akerboom S Sabrina Prioletta, Sabrina Svidt, Samuel Jacques, Saphira Laaraj, Sarah Noël, Sébastien Audet, Silke Langkitsch, Sjoerdje Smedinga T Theodore Polites W Wolfgang Jaetzold.

WRITER THANKS Anna KaminskiHuge thanks to Alicia for entrusting me with half of this beguiling country, and to everyone who’s helped me along the way. In particular: Claudio in Managua, Brian on Ometepe, Jorge and Kristin in Granada, Helio in San Juan de Oriente, Catalina in Las Peñitas, John in León, plus Brett and Carol in San Juan del Sur and Granada for the company and research input.

Tom Masters I was accompanied on a big chunk of my travels through Nicaragua by the imperturbable Rose-mary Masters, who didn’t allow civil strife to keep her away. Huge thanks also to Claudio Perez Cruz, Juana Boyd, Henry Soriano, Alex Egerton, Anna Kaminski, Salvador & Mina Acosta, Guill-ermo González Prado, Darling Rayo, Romain at Lighthouse, Teresa Mariscal, Leopoldo Flores Lovo and the various staff at ¡Hola Nicaragua!, Hotel Los Arcos in Estelí, Maria’s B&B in Mata-galpa and Hotel Casa Royale in Bluefields.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlay-son BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classifica-tion’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Toucan, Ondrej Prosicky/Shutterstock©

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

312

BEHIN

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THIS BOOK This 5th edition of Nicara-gua was curated by Bridget Gleeson, and researched and written by Anna Kaminski and Tom Masters. The previous edition was written by Bridget and Alex Egerton and the 3rd edition was written by Alex and Greg Benchwick. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Alicia Johnson Regional Senior Cartogra-pher Corey HutchisonSenior Product Editor Saralinda TurnerProduct Editor Kate KielySenior Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaBook Designer Fergal Condon

Assisting Editors James Bainbridge, Carolyn Boicos, Heather Champion, Emma Gibbs, Victoria Harrison, Lou McGregor, Lauren O'Connell, Maja Vatrić Cover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Sasha Drew, Bailey Freeman, Martine Power, Amanda Williamson

313

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccessible travel 291accommodations 20, 291-2

see also individual locations

homestays 199activities 24-6, 34-7, 292,

see also individual activities

addresses 298Aguas Agrias - La Nanda

Community 97Aguas Termales de Calera

97air travel

to/from Nicaragua 299within Nicaragua 301

Alamikangban 238Alemá, Arnoldo 269Altagracia 114-15animals 17, 22-3, 37, 282,

284, 285 see also birdwatching, monkeys, turtles

Antigua Estación del Ferrocarril 84

Antigua Estación del Ferrocarril de Masaya 68

archaeological sitesAltagracia 114Isla El Muerto 99-100Parque Arqueológico

Piedras Pintadas 218San Juan del Sur 124Santuario de los Venados

202Sitio Arqueologico La

Laguna 213architecture 22, 279,

280, 23area codes 297Área Protegida Cerro

Tisey-Estanzuela 177-8

Área Protegida Miraflor 175-8

art galleries, see museums & galleries

arts 23, 276-9ATMs 296Awas 224

BBalgüe 117-18banks 296bargaining 21baseball 274bathrooms 297beach buggies 303beaches 22

Arena Blanca 131Big Fowl House Beach

235Cocal Beach 235El Astillero 122El Tránsito 156Goat Beach 235Granada 85Iguana Beach 235Jimmy Lever Beach 235Las Peñitas 154-5Long Bay 229Miramar 155-6Otto Beach 235Playa Aserradores 163-4Playa Duna 120Playa El Coco 133-4Playa El Ostional 134Playa Escondida 120Playa Gigante 120-1Playa Hermosa 132-3, 13Playa Jiquelite 123Playa Jiquilillo 164-5Playa Los Perros 120Playa Maderas 130-1Playa Majagual 131Playa Marsella 130Playa Ocotal 131-2Playa Popoyo 17, 121-2Playa Remanso 132

Playa Rosada 120Playa Santana 120Playa Santo Domingo 115Playa Tamarindo 132Playa Yankee 133Pochomil 62Poneloya 153-4Reserva Natural Isla Juan

Venado 155Southwest Bay 229Tola 119-23

beer 128bicycle travel, see cyclingBilwi (Puerto Cabezas)

206-9, 207birdwatching 37

Reserva Natural Isla Juan Venado 155

Bluefields 220-3, 221Boaco 212-15boat travel 192, 300, 301,

see also kayakingIslas Solentiname 247La Fe 227Pearl Lagoon 225

boat tripsIsletas de Granada 100-1Pearl Lagoon 224Puerto Diaz 218

Boca de Sábalos 251-4books 260border crossings 107,

299-300budget 19, 292, 294bull sharks 116bus travel 300, 301-2, 303business hours 296

CCaldera Monte Galán 157car travel 302-3Carazo 77-9Caribbean Coast 40, 203-

39, 204-5accommodations 203food 203

highlights 204history 206safety 206travel seasons 203travel to/from 206

Casa de los Leones 84Casa del Obrero 45, 143Casa del Pueblo 45Casa Museo Comandante

Carlos Fonseca 193Casares 79Cascada San Ramón 118Casino Pharaoh 48Castillo San Pablo 100Catarina 74cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscaves 249Cebollal 177cell phones 18Cementerio de Granada 84ceramics 74-5, 23Cerro de Jesús 185Cerro La Cruz 187Cerro Mogotón 183Cerro Montoso 157Cerro Negro 157, 15Chagüitillo 201-2Chamorro, Violeta Barrios

de 269Charco Verde 113-14Chichigalpa 162-3children, travel with 292

Granada 91Managua 55

Chinandega 159-61, 160churches & cathedrals 279,

see also conventsAntigua Catedral 44Basílica de Nuestra

Señora de la Inmacu-lada Concepción de la Virgen María 162

Capilla San Juan de Dios 142

Catedral (Estelí) 170

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

314

IND

EX C- F

churches & cathedrals continued

Catedral de Granada 84Catedral de León 139-

41, 11Catedral Metropoli-

tana 48Catedral San Juan 188Convento y Museo San

Francisco 83-4Ermita de San Pedro 144Iglesia Catedral San

Pedro 193Iglesia de Guadelupe 85Iglesia de la Merced 141Iglesia de la

Recolección 139, 2Iglesia de San Felipe 143Iglesia de San Jerónimo

67-8Iglesia de San Juan

Bautista de Sutiaba 143

Iglesia de Xalteva 84Iglesia El Calvario 141-2,

159, 5Iglesia Guadalupe 159Iglesia La Merced 84Iglesia María

Magdalena 69Iglesia Nuestra Señora

de Candelaria 75Iglesia San Antonio 159Iglesia San José 193Iglesia San Juan Bautista

76, 143Iglesia San Miguel de

Masaya 69Iglesia San Sebastián 68Iglesia Santiago 179Iglesia Zaragoza 143La Capilla María

Auxiliadora 84Moravian Church 220Nuestra Señora de

Solentiname 246Parroquia de La

Asunción 69Parroquia de Nuestra

Señora del Perpetuo Socorro 213

Parroquia El Calvario 68-9

Parroquia Santa Ana 76, 159

Santuario Cerro Tepeyac

186Santuario de los

Milagros 183Templo Parroquial de

San Rafael Arcángel 186

Ciudad Darío 202climate 18, 24-6, 292coffee 12, 22, 182, 190, 13coffee farms

Aguas del Arenal 200Finca San Isidro 183Gaia Estate 77Reserva Natural Volcán

Mombacho 96Selva Negra 199

Colegio de San Ramón 144Colegio La Asunción 144Condega 178-9consulates 293convents

Iglesia de San Francisco 141

cooking courses 85-6Corinto 163Corn Islands 228-39,

230, 2travel to/from 228

Cosigüina Peninsula 163-6costs 19, 292, 294courses

cooking 85-6dance 48, 146language 48-9, 72, 86-7,

98, 144, 146, 295Coyolito 176crafts 23, 69, 70credit cards 296Cristo de la Misericordia

124Cuapa 218culture 271-5customs regulations 292cycling 301

Isla de Ometepe 109San Juan del Sur 124

Ddance 279dance classes 48, 146D’Andrea, Father Odorico

186Darío, Rubén 139, 277Dipilto 182-3Diriá 75-6Diriamba 77-8Diriomo 75-6dirt-biking 303

diving & snorkeling 34-5Great Corn Island 229Little Corn Island 235,

236Reserva Natural Laguna

de Apoyo 98drinks

beer 128coffee 182, 190language 305-6

driving, see car traveldriving tours

Ocotal to Jalapa 184drones 296DVDs 295

Eeconomic development 261economy 261, 272-3El Astillero 122El Castillo 254-6El Quino 114El Rama 219-20

travel to/from 212El Refugio 246El Sauce 158El Señor de Esquipulas 158El Tránsito 156El Viejo 162electricity 293embassies 293emergencies 19employment 261endangered species 284environmental issues

286-8Esquipulas 113Estatua al Soldado 45Estatua de Montoya 45Estelí 170-5, 172Estelí Jinotega Rd 186-7etiquette 21events see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 19

FFarallones del Consigüina

166festivals & events 24-6

Baile de los Diablitos 69Carnaval Alegría por la

Vida 49Día de la Revolución 49Día de la Virgen de la

Asunción 69Domingo de Trinidad 76El Toro Venado 69

Festival de San Sebastián 69

Festival de Santo Domingo de Guzman 49

Fiesta de Toro Guaco 78Fiestas de Agosto 89Fiestas Patronales 111Fiestas Patronales de

San Pedro 76Inmaculada

Concepción 89International Poetry

Festival 89Jesús del Rescate 69Jueves de Verbena 69La Gritería 162La Purísima 49La Virgen de la Asunción

69Noche de Agüizotes 69Palo de Mayo 221Procesión de San

Jerónimo 69San Juan Bautista 74San Lázaro 69San Silvestre Papa 74Santa Ana 76Santa Catalina de

Alejandría 74Semana Santa (León)

147Virgen de la

Candelaria 76films 260fishing 34,

Alamikangban 238Bluefields 220bull sharks 116Corn Islands 235Isla de Quiste 114Islas Solentiname 246Las Peñitas 154Pearl Lagoon 224Playa Marsella 130Río San Juan 253San Juan de Nicaragua

258San Juan del Sur 124San Miguelito 245Wawa & Karatá 210

Flor de Caña 162-3Flor de Pino 185folklore 73Fonseca, Carlos 45, 193,

265, 267, 276food 293-4

glossary 310güiríilas 196language 305-6

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

315IN

DEX F- L

lobster 208Miskito cuisine 211rosquillas 178

fortsCastillo San Pablo 100El Fortín de Acososco

144Fortaleza de Coyotepe 67Fortaleza La Polvora 85La Fortaleza 254

Fundación Casa de los Tres Mundos 84

GGalería de Héroes y

Mártires 170galleries, see museums &

galleriesgardens, see parks &

gardensGarifuna people 26, 227,

273gay travelers 295Geoffroy’s spider

monkey 17geography 281-2geology 281-2Golfo de Fonseca 166González de Ávila, Gil 262Granada 9, 39, 80-96,

82-3, 86, 8-9accommodations 80,

89-91activities 85-6children, travel with 91climate 80courses 86-7drinking & nightlife 93emergency services 94entertainment 93festivals & events 89food 80, 91-3highlights 81, 81history 82, 85internet access 94medical services 94safety 94shopping 94sights 83-5tourist offices 94-5tours 87, 89travel seasons 80travel to/from 95travel within 95-6walking tour 88, 88

Great Corn Island 228-33, 230

Greytown 257güiríilas 196

HHacienda San Jacinto 202Haulover 209-10health 294hiking 35

Isla de Ometepe 107-8León 146-7Mirador de Tisey Trail 177Monumento Nacional

Cañon de Somoto 180Reserva Natural

Tepesomoto-Pataste 179

Reserva Natural Volcán Cosigüina 166

Reserva Natural Volcán Mombacho 96

San Jacinto 158San Juan del Sur 125San Ramón 198Volcán Concepción 112Volcán Maderas 116-17

history 262-70colonial settlement 263Contra war 266-8European arrival 262-3Indigenous Nicaragua

262revolution 265Sandinistas 265-6,

269-70Somoza Era 263-5US relations 263, 268-9

hitchhiking 303holidays 296-7horseback riding

Finca Montania Sagrada 118

Isla de Ometepe 109Reserva Natural

Tepesomoto-Pataste 179

San Juan del Sur 124hot springs 97, 158, 166

Aguas Claras 213Las Minas 239Termales Don Alfonso

Nueva Segovia 183

Iiglesias, see churches &

cathedralsimmigration 297, 299insurance 294International Poetry

Festival 24, 25internet access 294-5internet resources 19Isla Atravesada 249, 250

Isla de los Monos (Monkey Island) 100

Isla de Ometepe 10, 107-19, 108-9, 10, 28

Isla de Quiste 113-14Isla El Muerto 99-100Isla El Padre 250Isla Grande 114Isla Los Brasiles 153Isla Mancarrón 246-7Isla Mancarroncito 249Isla Momotombito 157Isla San Fernando 247-8Isla Sevilla 250Isla Venada 249Isla Zapatera 99-100Isla Zapote 249Isla Zapotillo 249-50Islas Solentiname 15, 40,

240, 246-50, 242-3, 15accommodations 240activities 246-7food 240highlights 242-3history 241information 247tours 247travel seasons 240travel to/from 241,

246, 247Isletas de Granada 100-1itineraries 27-33, 27, 29,

30, 31, 32-3

JJalapa 184-5Jinotega 187-90, 188Jinotepe 78-9

KKakabila 226Karatá 210kayaking 115

Granada 86Isla de Ometepe 108-9Isletas de Granada 101Reserva Natural Estero

Padre Ramos 165kitesurfing 115, 235Krukira 210

LLa Boquita 79La Dalia & Peñas Blancas

200-1La Esperanza 251La Gritería 162La Perla 176

La Piscina 166La Purísima 26La Ruta de Café 190La Sabana 114La Vicky 48lakes

Lago de Apanás 192Lago de Managua 157Laguna de Apoyo 14,

98-9Laguna de Masaya 68

landscape 281-2language 21, 304-10

accommodations 304courses 48-9, 72, 86-7,

98, 144, 146, 295directions 305emergencies 307food & drink 305-6Miskito 308shopping 307time 307transport 308

Las Minas 239Las Peñitas 154-5Las Ruinas de Veracruz 144Las Salinas de

Nagualapa 121lesbian travelers 295legal matters 295León 10, 39, 138-152,

140-1, 145accommodations 147-9activities 144courses 144, 146drinking & nightlife 150-1entertainment 151festivals & events 147food 149-50history 138-9, 146internet access 151medical services 152safety 151shopping 151sights 139-44tours 146-7travel to/from 152, 153travel within 152walking tour 144-5, 145

León Viejo 146LGBT travelers 295literature 260Little Corn Island 9, 233-9,

234accommodations 236-7activities 235drinking & nightlife 238entertainment 238food 237-8

316

IND

EX L-N

Little Corn Island continued

information 238-9sights 233, 235travel to/from 239travel within 239

lizards 12Long Bay 229Los Hervideros de San

Jacinto 158Los Pueblos Blancos 38,

73-7accommodations 65, 73climate 65food 65, 73highlights 66, 66history 67travel seasons 65travel to/within 67, 73-4

Mmagazines 295Malecón (Managua) 44-5Managua 38, 42-64, 44,

46-7, 50accommodations 42,

49-53activities 48climate 42children, travel with 55courses 48-9drinking & nightlife 56-7emergency services 59entertainment 57-8festivals & events 49food 42, 53-6highlights 43, 43history 43-4internet access 59medical services 59safety 57, 59shopping 58-9sights 44-8tourist offices 60tours 49travel seasons 42travel to/from 60-2, 212travel within 62

Managua area 62-4, 63Manglar de Ostional 134maps 295-6markets

Mercado (Bluefields) 220Mercado Municipal

(Bilwi) 207

Mercado Municipal (Granada) 85

Mercado Roberto Huembes 59

Mercado San Juan 151Masachapa 62-3, 64Masatepe 76-7Masaya 38, 67-73

accommodations 65, 69-70

activities 69climate 65drinking & nightlife 70festivals & events 69food 65, 70highlights 66, 66history 67medical services 71safety 71shopping 70-1sights 67-9travel seasons 65travel to/within 67, 71

Matagalpa 192-8, 213Mausoleo de los Héroes y

Mártires 143Maypole 24measures 295Mechapa 165media 274-5Mérida 118-19mining 273, 288Mirador de Tisey Trail 177Miramar 155-6, 36Miskito Keys 210Miskito language 308mobile phones 18money 18, 19, 21, 296Monimbó 73monkeys 282, 17Monumento a Rubén

Darío 45Monumento al Trabajador

Nicaragüense 45Monumento Nacional

Cañon de Somoto 179Monumento Roosevelt 46motorcycle travel 302-3mountain biking

Managua 48Moyogalpa 111-12Moyotepe 157museums & galleries

Biblioteca Augusto C Sandino 76

Casa Museo Comandante Carlos Fonseca 193

Casa Museo Judith Kain 207

Códice Espacio Cultural 46

Epikentro Gallery 45Galería de Héroes y

Mártires 142, 170Mi Museo 84Museo Archipiélago

Solentiname 248Museo Arqueológico 246Museo Arqueológico

Huellas de Acahualinca 48

Museo Arqueológico Julio César Salgado 179

Museo Arqueológico Tendirí 72-3

Museo Auka Tangki 211Museo de Arte

Fundación Ortiz-Gurdián 139

Museo de Arte Sacre 143Museo de Chocolate 84Museo de Leyendas y

Tradiciones 141Museo del Folclore 67Museo Ecológico Trópico

Seco 77Museo Enrique B.

Mántica 159Museo Entomológico 143Museo Histórico Cultural

de la Costa Caribe 220Museo Histórico de la

Revolución 139Museo Nacional 45Museo Nacional de

Café 193Museo Precolombino de

Chagüitillo 202Museo Rubén Darío 139Museo y Galería de y

Mártires 68Museos El Ceibo 113Unión de Pintores y

Artesanos de Solentiname ‘Elvis Chavarría’ 248

music 276-7

NNational Assembly

Pedestrian Walk 45national parks & reserves

283Aguas Agrias - La Nanda

Community 97Área Protegida Cerro

Tisey-Estanzuela 177-8Área Protegida Miraflor

175-8El Jagua 192

Monumento Nacional Cañon de Somoto 179

Nicaragua Libre 97Parque Nacional Volcán

Masaya 71-2Parque Nacional Volcán

Masaya 71-2Refugio de Vida Silvestre

La Flor 134Refugio de Vida Silvestre

Río Escalante- Chacocente 123

Reserva Biológica Indio-Maíz 256

Reserva Charco Verde 114

Reserva de Biosfera Bosawás 214

Reserva Ecólogica La Maquina 79

Reserva Esperanza Verde 250

Reserva Genetica Apacunaca 162

Reserva Natural Cerro Cola Blanca 239

Reserva Natural Cerro Datanlí-El Diablo 191-2

Reserva Natural Cerro El Arenal 199-200

Reserva Natural Choc-oyero-El Brujo 64

Reserva Natural Delta del Estero Real 161-2

Reserva Natural Estero Padre Ramos 17

Reserva Natural Isla Juan Venado 155

Reserva Natural Kahka Creek 226

Reserva Natural Laguna de Apoyo 98-9

Reserva Natural Macizos de Peñas Blancas 200

Reserva Natural Pilas- El Hoyo 157

Reserva Natural San Cristóbal-La Casita 157

Reserva Natural Telica-Rota 157

Reserva Natural Tepesomoto-Pataste 179

Reserva Natural Volcán Cosigüina 166

Reserva Natural Volcán Mombacho 96-7

Reserva Natural Volcán Momotombo 157

Reserva Privada El Quebracho 252

Reserva Silvestre Greenfields 220

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

317IN

DEX N

- SSan José de los Remates

219Selva Negra 199-200Sistema de Humedales

de San Miguelito 245newspapers 295Nicaragua Libre 97Nindirí 72-3Niquinohomo 76Noche de Agüizotes 26Northern Highlands 39,

167-202, 168-9accommodations 167food 167highlights 168history 170travel seasons 167travel to/from 170

Northwestern Nicaragua 39, 135-66

accommodations 135climate 135food 135highlights 136, 136-7history 138travel seasons 135travel to/from 138

Nuestra Señora de Solentiname 246

OOcotal 181-2, 183-4Ojo de Agua 115opening hours 296ordnance, unexploded 21Orinoco 226-7Ortega, Daniel 268, 269-70

Ppainting 278-9Palacio de la Cultura y

Biblioteca Nacional 45Palacio Episcopal 144Palo de Mayo 221parks & gardens, see

also national parks & reserves

Arboretum Nacional Juan Batista Salas 46-7

Galería del Arte El Jalacate 178

Parque El Avion 179Parque El Carmén 46Parque El Cerrito del

Faro 213Parque Histórico

Nacional Loma de Tiscapa 45-6

Parque Japon 48

Parque Las Palmas 47Parque Luis Velásquez

44Parque Rubén Darío 139Plaza de la Revolución

44Paseo Salvador Allende 44passports 297, 299Pearl Keys 10, 227-8, 11Pearl Lagoon 224-5Pearl Lagoon area 226-7petroglyphs 99-100,

118, 124photography 296pirates 85planning

budgeting 19, 292calendar of events 24-6family travel 55, 91, 292first-time travelers 20-1internet resources 19itineraries 27-33Nicaragua basics 18-19Nicaragua’s regions

38-40travel seasons 18, 24-6

plants 284-6Playa Aserradores 163-4Playa El Coco 133-4Playa El Ostional 134Playa Gigante 120-1Playa Hermosa 132-3, 13Playa Jiquelite 123Playa Jiquilillo 164-5Playa Maderas 130-1Playa Majagual 131Playa Marsella 130Playa Ocotal 131-2Playa Popoyo 121-2Playa Remanso 132Playa Santo Domingo 115-6Playa Tamarindo 132Playa Yankee 133Plaza de la

Independencia 85Plaza de la Revolución 44Pochomil 62-3, 64poetry 276political unrest 19, 21, 71,

129, 212, 252, 260-1, 290

San Juan de Oriente 74politics 260Poneloya 153-4Popoyo 17, 16population 261, 273postal services 296Potosí 166pottery 74-5

pottery courses 86Prinzapolka 238protests 21, 71, 94, 151public holidays 296-7Puerto Cabezas, 206-9,

207Punta Jesús María 113Punta Ñata 166

Qquad-biking 303

RRaiti Pura 224Rama people 262, 273, Refugio de Vida Silvestre

La Flor 14, 26, 134Refugio de Vida Silvestre

Los Guatuzos 250-1Refugio de Vida Silvestre

Río Escalante- Chacocente 123

religion 261, 275Reserva Biológica

Indio-Maíz 256Reserva Charco Verde 114Reserva de Biosfera

Bosawás 214Reserva Ecólogica La

Maquina 79Reserva Genetica

Apacunaca 162Reserva Natural Cerro

Datanlí-El Diablo 191-2Reserva Natural Cerro El

Arenal 199-200Reserva Natural

Chocoyero-El Brujo 64Reserva Natural Delta del

Estero Real 161-2Reserva Natural Estero

Padre Ramos 17, 165, 16Reserva Natural Isla Juan

Venado 155Reserva Natural Laguna de

Apoyo 98-9Reserva Natural Pilas-El

Hoyo 157Reserva Natural San

Cristóbal-La Casita 157Reserva Natural Telica-Rota

157Reserva Natural

Tepesomoto-Pataste 179

Reserva Natural Volcán Cosigüina 166

Reserva Natural Volcán Mombacho 96-7

Reserva Natural Volcán Momotombo 157

rickshaw travel 303Río Coco 210-12Río San Juan 12, 40, 240,

251-8, 242-3accommodations 240food 240highlights 242-3history 241travel seasons 240travel to/from 241, 251

Río Wawashang 226Rivas 103, 106rosquillas 178Ruinas San Sebastián 143rum distilleries 162-3

Ssafety 21, 206, 212, 290,

297, see also political unrest

Granada 94León 151Managua 57, 59Masaya 71San Juan del Sur 129

sailingSan Juan del Sur 124

San Carlos 40, 240, 241-5, 244

accommodations 240, 244-5

activities 241, 244festivals & events 244food 240, 245history 241information 245sights 241travel seasons 240travel to/from 241, 245

San Diego 64San Jacinto 158San Jorge 106-7San José de los Remates

219San José del Sur 113San Juan de Limay 187San Juan de Nicaragua 257San Juan de Oriente 74-5San Juan del Sur 123-30,

126-7, 28accommodations 125-8activities 124drinking & nightlife

128-9festivals & events 125food 128safety 129sights 124tours 124-5

318

IND

EX S-Z

San Juan del Sur continued

travel to/from 129-30travel within 130

San Miguelito 245-6San Rafael del Norte 186-7San Ramón 118-19, 198-9Santa Cruz 115-16Santa Lucia 215-16sculpture 278-9Semana Santa 24, 25sharks 116smoking 295snorkelling, see diving &

snorkelling Somotillo 162Somoto 179-81Southwestern Nicaragua

39, 102-34accommodations 102climate 102food 102highlights 104, 104-5history 103travel seasons 102travel to/from 103

spas 86sports 273-4Star City 48surfing 35-7

El Tránsito 156Las Peñitas 154León 146Miramar 155-6Panga Drops 130Playa Aserradores 163Playa Gigante 120Playa Hermosa 132Playa Jiquelite 123Playa Maderas 130Playa Popoyo 121Playa Tamarindo 132Playa Yankee 133San Juan del Sur 13, 124

sustainable tourism 176, 228

swimming 37Isla de Ometepe 108Mirador Vista Linda

216-17Ojo de Agua 115

Ttaxis 57, 303telephone services 18, 297television 295Territorio Rama-Kriol 217theater 279thermal baths, see hot

springstime 297tipping 21, 296toilets 297Tola 119-23Tomb of Carlos Fonseca 45tourist information 297tours

Área Protegida Cerro Tisey-Estanzuela 177

Bluefields 220Boca de Sábalos 252El Castillo 254, 255El Sauce 158Granada 87Isla Mancarrón 247Jalapa 184Las Peñitas 154León 146Managua 49Matagalpa 194Moyogalpa 111Pearl Lagoon 224Peñas Blancas 200Reserva Natural Estero

Padre Ramos 165Reserva Natural

Tepesomoto-Pataste 179

San Jorge 109San Juan Del Sur 124

San Rafael del Norte 186San Ramón 198Somoto 180

travel to/from Nicaragua 299-300

travel within Nicaragua 301-3

trekking, see hikingtsunamis 282tuk-tuks 303turtles 14, 37, 285, 14

Refugio de Vida Silvestre La Flor 14, 26, 134

Refugio de Vida Silvestre Río Escalante- Chacocente 123

Reserva Natural Isla Juan Venado 155

UUCA 47UNAN 47-8

Vvacations 296-7vaccinations 294Villa Sandino 218-19visas 297Volcán Mombacho area

96-8volcano boarding/surfing

15, 157, 15volcanoes 22

El Chonco 157Isla Zapatera 99Volcán Cerro Negro

15, 157Volcán Concepción 112Volcán Cosigüina 166Volcán Maderas 116-17Volcán Masaya 14,

71-2, 14Volcán Mombacho 96Volcán Momotombo 157Volcán Rota 158

Volcán San Cristóbal 157, 162

Volcán Santa Clara 158Volcán Telica 157

volunteering 298Fundación Entre

Volcánes 111Granada 95León 144San Ramón 198

WWaiku Centro de Arte 220Walker, William 264walking tours

Granada 88, 88León 144-5, 145

Waspám 210-12waterfalls

Cascada Blanca 200Cascada La Luna 200Cascada San Ramón 118El Brujo 64El Chocoyero 64La Bujona 191Pozo La Pila 176Salto Estanzuela 178

Wawa 210weather 18, 24-6, 292weights 295wildlife 17, 22-3, 37, 282,

284, see also bird-watching, monkeys, turtles

women in Nicaragua 275women travelers 298work 298

Yyoga 124

ZZelaya, José Santos 263ziplining 125

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

319

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway/Subte stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Bridget Gleeson Bridget has written and taken photos for a variety of web and print publications including Lonely Planet, BBC Travel, BBC Culture, the Guardian, Budget Travel, Afar, Wine Enthusiast, Mr & Mrs Smith, Jetsetter, Tablet Hotels, the Independent, Delta Sky, Continental, LAN Airlines and Korean Air. She’s lived in Italy, the Czech Republic, Nicaragua and Argentina.

Anna Kaminski Managua; Masaya & Los Pueblos Blancos; Granada; Southwestern Nicaragua; León & Northwestern Nicaragua Originally from the Soviet Union, Anna grew up in Cambridge, UK. She graduated from the University of Warwick with a degree in Comparative American Studies, a background in the history, culture and liter-ature of the Americas and the Caribbean, and an enduring love of Latin America. Her restless wanderings led her to settle briefly in Oaxaca and Bangkok and her

flirtation with criminal law saw her volunteering as a lawyer’s assistant in the courts, ghettos and prisons of Kingston, Jamaica. Anna has contributed to numerous Lonely Planet titles. When not on the road, Anna calls London home. Anna also researched and wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

Tom Masters Northern Highlands; Caribbean Coast; San Carlos, Islas Solentiname & the Río San Juan Dreaming since he could walk of going to the most obscure places on earth, Tom has always had a taste for the unknown. This has led to a writing career that has taken him all over the world, including North Korea, the Arctic, Congo and Siberia. Despite a childhood spent in the English countryside, as an adult Tom has always called London, Paris and Berlin home. He currently lives in

Berlin and can be found online at www.tommasters.net. Tom also contributed to the History chapter.Tofm Tom Tom

Tom Tom alTom

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

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