Cotton production in Africa: The experience of cottons in niche markets

Silvère TOVIGNAN, PhD

Ambassador for Textile Exchange in Africa

Email: silvere@textileexchange.org

“COTTON, WEAVING OPPORTUNITIES FOR LATIN AMERICA AND THE CARIBBEAN”

WORKTABLE 3: Differential Markets and Certification Seals

About Textile Exchange• A multi stakeholders’ membership organization with headquarter based in Texas

(US)

• Vision : Build a global textile industry that protects and restores the environment and enhances lives.

• Mission: Inspire and equip people to accelerate sustainable practices in the textile value chain.

• Key activities:• Annual Conferences to discuss issues and progress of sustainability in textile production (the

next in October 2017 in Washington)• Annual farm and fiber report• Annual market report

• For more information: www.textileexchange.org

Africa in the global Cotton production• From 100 countries in the world

producing cotton, 25 are from Africa,

• 53 counties in Africa, then almost 50% of them produce cotton

• Africa contributes approximately 6% of the global cotton supply,

• 10 countries from West and Central Africa contribute 4% of the global cotton supply.

• Rainfed and hand picked cotton

Some challenges of cotton production in Africa

• Inputs and cotton Prices are out of farmers’ control • With liberal economic policy, most Governments reduce or

remove subsidies on cotton inputs

• Subsidies received by western cotton farmers create distortion on the global cotton market.

• Farmers receive the payment of their cotton most of the time with long delay

Limited access to farm equipment and technology (Family labor and its limits)

5

Cotton pest control (Pesticides & effects abuse)

6

Unequal distribution of cotton revenue

7

« niche cottons » as response to some of these challenges

• Organic cotton

• Fair trade cotton

• Organic and fair trade cotton

• Cotton made in Africa

• Better cotton initiative (Mali)

Comparing the different « niche cotton »Criteria Fair trade Organic CmiA

Soil fertility

management practices

and ingredients

- Mineral fertilizers

- Compost and green manure

- Crops rotation

- Compost and green manure

- crops rotation

- Mineral fertilizers

- Compost and green manure

- Crops rotation

Pest management

practices and

ingredients

Synthetic pesticides

(exclusion of pesticide on

Stockholm convention list)

- Agro ecosystem balance

- Natural pesticides based on

plant extracts

Synthetic pesticides with

exclusion ones on the 1a and

1b list of WHO

Control system Traceability

Certification

Traceability

Certification

Traceability

Verification

Advantage at market

place

Minimum guaranty price

(revised periodically)

Fairtrade Premium

(community projects)

Premium price directly paid to

farmers can reach 20% above

conventional price

- No Premium price

- Investment in education

infrastructures

Organic cottonOrganic cotton is grown within a rotation system that builds soil fertility, protects biodiversity, and is grown without the use of any synthetic chemicals or GMOs. Organic cotton is subject to regular organic farm certification. The national laws governing organic

production include the EEC Organic Regulation 834/2007 in Europe, USDA National Organic Program (NOP) in the United States, and the National Program for Organic Production (NPOP) in India.

MT of lint in 2015

Promoters: Civil society organizations, cotton companies and donors.

World Africa112488 5074 (≈ 5%)

Fair Trade cottonThe term Fair Trade defines a trading partnership, based on dialogue, transparency and respect, that seeks greater equity in international trade. It contributes to sustainable development by offering better trading conditions to, and securing the rights of, marginalized producers and workers –especially in developing countries

Promoters: cotton companies and FLO

65 percent of Fairtrade cotton farmers also hold organic certification.

Of the 22 Fairtrade cotton producer organizations, 13 are small producer organizations with a concentration in West Africa.

Cotton made in Africa (CmiA)

• In 2015, approximately • 750,000 smallholders

• Production volume of about 400,000 tons of lint

• 3 standards : CmiA, CmiA-Organic and SCS.

• Promoters: Germany based organizations• OTTO Group

• Aid by Trade Foundation

• GIZ

• DEG

Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) in Mali• Promoter in Mali: Solidaridad, CMDT APROCA

• In the 2014 harvest season, • 29,000 BCI farmers produced

• over 35,000 MT of Better Cotton lint

• on 80,000 hectares.

• Impact• Use of pesticides reduced for 17%

• 16% profitability increase on cotton

• CmiA cotton will continue to be sold as Better Cotton to BCI membersMali

Mozambic

Are we still in niche market???

Sustainable cottons trends in Africa!!

MUCHOS GRACISMERCI

THANKS